Anyone ever have their NF rings slip on them???

BergerBoy

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I'm NOT a patriot... I am a U.S. Constitutionalist
Let me just say first off that I am VERY pleased with my NXS and I am a life-long customer of NF.... :)
That being said... Has anyone ever had any slipping from the ultralight rings? I have a 300 wm that my NXS 5.5-22-50 is mounted on with some .880 high 30 mm ultralight rings. Before I installed my scope I used some rubbing alcohol on the tube and inside the rings like usual then used my new Fat wrench and set it to 27 in/lbs. After approx. 100 rounds I noticed about 1/16 or more slipping so I called NF and spoke to them. I was told to repeat the process bc I probably got some oil in there somehow- I thought the same thing.... So I did and I noticed about the same after approx. 100 rounds.
I had a nice set of Badger rings (steel) laying around so I put them on with the same process and tighten to 27 in/lbs and I am headed out in the morning.
Does steel hold any better than aluminum? I mean 27 in/lbs is the same force and drag on the tube right?? I thought maybe the aluminum may have "gave" a little and the steel would not?? I don't know...
Anyone have an issue like this? My 300 has what I would say medium recoil so I am at a loss...
Thanks,
BB
 
^ I agree. I've still seen scopes move on lapped rings. I assume the anodize is very hard. Heavy scopes are more prone to slipping than light ones.

I use RingTrue tape after lapping my rings. I started using it on a ballistics project shooting heavy rounds from a 50 BMG rifle. I've used it ever since. No more scope slipping or ring marks on the tube. It also seals the ring surface after lapping to prevent corrosion.
http://www.highpoweroptics.com/ringtrue™-tape-three-scopes-p-24944.html
 
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Let me just say first off that I am VERY pleased with my NXS and I am a life-long customer of NF.... :)
That being said... Has anyone ever had any slipping from the ultralight rings? I have a 300 wm that my NXS 5.5-22-50 is mounted on with some .880 high 30 mm ultralight rings. Before I installed my scope I used some rubbing alcohol on the tube and inside the rings like usual then used my new Fat wrench and set it to 27 in/lbs. After approx. 100 rounds I noticed about 1/16 or more slipping so I called NF and spoke to them. I was told to repeat the process bc I probably got some oil in there somehow- I thought the same thing.... So I did and I noticed about the same after approx. 100 rounds.
I had a nice set of Badger rings (steel) laying around so I put them on with the same process and tighten to 27 in/lbs and I am headed out in the morning.
Does steel hold any better than aluminum? I mean 27 in/lbs is the same force and drag on the tube right?? I thought maybe the aluminum may have "gave" a little and the steel would not?? I don't know...
Anyone have an issue like this? My 300 has what I would say medium recoil so I am at a loss...
Thanks,
BB
Not sure about NF but lapping rings voids Badgers warranty. Also Badger specs calls for 15-18 in/lb.
 
Not sure about NF but lapping rings voids Badgers warranty. Also Badger specs calls for 15-18 in/lb.

I did not lap the rings but wouldn't the SCOPE be the determining factor on torque?? No matter what the rings say the scope would set the torque. Example- No matter what rings I had Vortex PST calls for 18 in/lbs so that would be my max torque for that scope. Am I correct?

Thanks again for all your info and experiences
 
I torque mine to 15 in-lbs on Win mags and RUM's and never seen a scope move. Wonder if you've stretched the threads on the screws which will greatly decrease their clamping force.
 
I did not lap the rings but wouldn't the SCOPE be the determining factor on torque?? No matter what the rings say the scope would set the torque. Example- No matter what rings I had Vortex PST calls for 18 in/lbs so that would be my max torque for that scope. Am I correct?

Thanks again for all your info and experiences

Yes and no. Tube dia and wall thickness will determine crush strength and the surface area of the ring plays a part in how the load is distributed over the tube.
I lap the rings after they're mounted. The tolerance stack from ring to base to receiver is simply too great for me to just screw the parts together. I want concentricity between the rings and as much scope tube contact as I can get. Lapping is the best way for me to get that. A cpl other options might be the Burris shims or the HighPower tape which looks interesting.
 
I torque mine to 15 in-lbs on Win mags and RUM's and never seen a scope move. Wonder if you've stretched the threads on the screws which will greatly decrease their clamping force.

This sounds like a reasonable possibility. 18 in/lb has always worked for me. I don't recall seeing torque specs in the S&B manual so always went with ring mfgr specs. I may be wrong but I thought that screw size was the determining factor for torque.
 
Have those rings on 340 WBY,2 338 NM one is only 7-2oz,all braked lots rounds down range no issues.The 340 has mark 4 alum.
 
I have never lapped a ring and never had a thing move. I'm with bigngreen on this I'd try some different screws, maybe some blue loctight. Also, while rare maybe you fit some rings that are out of spec. Have you talked to nightforce?
 
I had an NXS move on a 300 RUM with NF rings and base. Lapping solved the problem. I didn't have to lap the rings much however the difference with lapping vice not lapped was enough to keep the scope from moving. After two hunting seasons the scope has not moved from zero. The initial problem could be associated with base mounting and not necessarily the rings. In either case, lapping solved the problem.
 
I went out yesterday and shot 75 rounds in my 300 and had no movement.

I didn't lap the rings (Badger or NF). I was told that you don't have to lap top of the line rings unless you notice something wrong. I was a little nervous using Badger rings bc I always use NF but so far so good....

Thank you for all your insight and experiences.
 
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