Any thoughts on using Locktite threadlocker 242 on rings and bases?

walserjack

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May 23, 2011
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I read somewhere that I should use locktite for rings and bases. Do any of you guys use this method? Im only shooting a 308. It makes me a little nervous locking my scope to my rifle permanantly.
 
On my 8mm mauser, I used blue loctite between the 1 piece scope base and the receiver (after pre-assembly to check that everything fits perfectly). The first time I tried it, the scope base froze to the receiver the moment they touched together. I could not get them separated with a rubber mallet ! In desperation, I got out a small blowtorch and warmed the rail very gently to soften the loctite and finally got them apart.

After that lesson, I had a job cleaning all of the loctite off both parts (it had hardened). Next time I got everything prepared and inserted a bolt at the front and rear of the rail, then applied the loctite to the center of the rail and then made sure to engage both bolts before allowing the loctite to touch the receiver.

I am sure that I could remove all 4 bolts to the receiver and could still fire the rifle and the scope base will not depart. My concern was that though I picked a steel scope base so that scope base and receiver expansion coefficients were the same, there was nothing blocking axial movement except for friction between the rail and the receiver and ultimately the screws. With the loctite, there is no way it is ever moving.

I'm not sure I would use it between an aluminum rail and steel receiver, but then I would never choose that combination myself to begin with.
 
I used the purple loctite for fasteners under 1/4 inch. Though red and blue mixed make a purple color, purple loctite is not a mixture of red/blue but its own. I think it is #222.
 
I read somewhere that I should use locktite for rings and bases. Do any of you guys use this method? Im only shooting a 308. It makes me a little nervous locking my scope to my rifle permanantly.
It isn't permanent. When you need to remove them (if ever) simply warm the parts with a blow dryer or small torch. Get it to about 180 degrees or so and it gets very soft.

It's always a good idea to secure rings and bases as well as you can no matter what the caliber.
 
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