I have ordered a new Remington 700 LSS in a 300 WSM. I plan to mount a Burris Black Diamond 4x16x50mm scope on it. I will mainly use this rifle for hunting, and I want to get all the accuracy I can out of it, while not going too overboard. Any suggestions?
Accurizing advise for 300 WSM
- Thread starter telkev
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Jtomlinson
Well-Known Member
telkev
Im no expert here, just someone who has gone through the same thing with a new Sendero in Win Mag, but first off I would try it as it comes from the box, you may be surprised, if it shoots . 50 - .75" from new you may have to spend large sums to get any real return for such an outlay.
Possibly one useful alternation would be to ge the trigger looked at or slicked up, I changed my trigger for an Arnold Jewell and although not the cheapest out there is a great unit. Then I would try a number of loads - hand load combos to see what your particular rifle likes.
Just my thoughts
Im no expert here, just someone who has gone through the same thing with a new Sendero in Win Mag, but first off I would try it as it comes from the box, you may be surprised, if it shoots . 50 - .75" from new you may have to spend large sums to get any real return for such an outlay.
Possibly one useful alternation would be to ge the trigger looked at or slicked up, I changed my trigger for an Arnold Jewell and although not the cheapest out there is a great unit. Then I would try a number of loads - hand load combos to see what your particular rifle likes.
Just my thoughts
I think most will recommend a couple things.
1. Bedding
2. Adjust the factory trigger. You can get it to 2.5 lbs consistent easilty and it will hold there.
3. Have the smith check the recoil lug for straightness and replace if necessary.
4. Maybe front of the rcvr if way out of align and finally lap the lugs.
5. check for massive coppering in the bore when shooting, if so, use the Fire Lap kits with only half of the bullets for each grit first.
Now Bobby Hart at RW Hart offers a complete accruizing package for $225 covering that not counting shipping. www.rwhart.com in PA 800-368-3656
That about covers everything you can "reasonably" do without a lot of money or changing barrels.
BH
1. Bedding
2. Adjust the factory trigger. You can get it to 2.5 lbs consistent easilty and it will hold there.
3. Have the smith check the recoil lug for straightness and replace if necessary.
4. Maybe front of the rcvr if way out of align and finally lap the lugs.
5. check for massive coppering in the bore when shooting, if so, use the Fire Lap kits with only half of the bullets for each grit first.
Now Bobby Hart at RW Hart offers a complete accruizing package for $225 covering that not counting shipping. www.rwhart.com in PA 800-368-3656
That about covers everything you can "reasonably" do without a lot of money or changing barrels.
BH
Jeff In TX
Well-Known Member
Telkev,
Two years ago I bought a Winchester Model 70 Featherweight in 300 WSM which I topped with a Burris 4.5-14 X 32mm Short Mag scope and Burris Signature rings. It's a fantastic setup for hunting moose in Alaska which was why I purchased it. Now I'm using it on hogs here in Texas.
I immediately had George at GAP do a trigger job on it when I picked the rifle up in KC. At the range I was very disappointed as I was getting 2 to 3+" groups with Fed Premium 180 gr Barnes triple shock factory ammo. My first two rounds were always under an inch, but the third round would fly left 2 or 3+" every time. I sent the gun back to George at GAP where he hand lapped the factory barrel and bedded the stock, I also had him black Teflon coat the barreled action.
BTW, Georges closing statement to me was, "you know you're not going to be happy with the accuracy and I'm probably going to have to re-barrel it for you".
Back at the range I hoping for a descent improvement and was I shocked. My first 3-round group was just over .5" @ 100 yards. No flyers and rock solid accuracy. My subsequence 3-shot groups all measured in the .5", .6" and no larger than .75" @ 100 yards with factory ammo. For a 7.5 pound hunting rifle I'll take that all day long. I sent George a photo of the groups and said I'll keep this set up. Not sure what made the bigger the difference, bedding or lapping the barrel. I'm betting it was bedding the stock and not the lapping of the barrel as I'll explain.
When I went to cleaning the rifle I found my factory barrel fouled like hell. Not surprising as most factory barrels will foul. Even using wipeout and letting it sit overnight it still took some scrubbing. Last month I found out why. We looked at the barrel with a bore scope and the entire length of the barrel is pitted like the moon. No amount of hand lapping could have fixed all this pitting. It still shoots great, but the inside finish of the barrel is the worst my smith and the other smiths who looked at it had ever seen.
Moral to this story, leave the copper fouling in. This rifle only sees a handful of rounds every year. Despite the interior finish of the barrel the rifle still shoots .75" or better each and every time.
I wish you the best on your new rifle, as I love mine.
Two years ago I bought a Winchester Model 70 Featherweight in 300 WSM which I topped with a Burris 4.5-14 X 32mm Short Mag scope and Burris Signature rings. It's a fantastic setup for hunting moose in Alaska which was why I purchased it. Now I'm using it on hogs here in Texas.
I immediately had George at GAP do a trigger job on it when I picked the rifle up in KC. At the range I was very disappointed as I was getting 2 to 3+" groups with Fed Premium 180 gr Barnes triple shock factory ammo. My first two rounds were always under an inch, but the third round would fly left 2 or 3+" every time. I sent the gun back to George at GAP where he hand lapped the factory barrel and bedded the stock, I also had him black Teflon coat the barreled action.
BTW, Georges closing statement to me was, "you know you're not going to be happy with the accuracy and I'm probably going to have to re-barrel it for you".
Back at the range I hoping for a descent improvement and was I shocked. My first 3-round group was just over .5" @ 100 yards. No flyers and rock solid accuracy. My subsequence 3-shot groups all measured in the .5", .6" and no larger than .75" @ 100 yards with factory ammo. For a 7.5 pound hunting rifle I'll take that all day long. I sent George a photo of the groups and said I'll keep this set up. Not sure what made the bigger the difference, bedding or lapping the barrel. I'm betting it was bedding the stock and not the lapping of the barrel as I'll explain.
When I went to cleaning the rifle I found my factory barrel fouled like hell. Not surprising as most factory barrels will foul. Even using wipeout and letting it sit overnight it still took some scrubbing. Last month I found out why. We looked at the barrel with a bore scope and the entire length of the barrel is pitted like the moon. No amount of hand lapping could have fixed all this pitting. It still shoots great, but the inside finish of the barrel is the worst my smith and the other smiths who looked at it had ever seen.
Moral to this story, leave the copper fouling in. This rifle only sees a handful of rounds every year. Despite the interior finish of the barrel the rifle still shoots .75" or better each and every time.
I wish you the best on your new rifle, as I love mine.
Thanks to all of you for your inputs. I am a hunter who has carried a 308 winchester for almost 30 years. I have had several different rifles and been fortunate to have all of them to be very accurate. This will be my first magnum rife and I'm hoping not to loose that accuracy. I'm a Mississippi boy, and most people would be surprised that there is long shot opportunities here in the south. With the increasing numbers of hogs, most farmers are pleased to let you take as many as you want. Frankly I wish that the hogs were never here.
James Jones
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2002
- Messages
- 2,854
What part of Mississippi are you fom , their are several members here that live in MS or hunt their.
As for your rifle , the first thing I would do it adjust the trigger , check the action screws for proper torque and shoot it. If its not up to par then I'd bed it and free float the barrel and see what does for you. If its still not up to snuff then check the bolt to see if both lugs are making contact if not then you need to have them lapped into place , also check the crown , I've seen alot of guns go from 1.5-3" shooters down to .75 and 1" by simply lapping the muzzle
But for the most part the trigger and a good bedding job will get you some consistant groups , but I woulden't throw to much money at it them end up rebarreling it anyway
As for your rifle , the first thing I would do it adjust the trigger , check the action screws for proper torque and shoot it. If its not up to par then I'd bed it and free float the barrel and see what does for you. If its still not up to snuff then check the bolt to see if both lugs are making contact if not then you need to have them lapped into place , also check the crown , I've seen alot of guns go from 1.5-3" shooters down to .75 and 1" by simply lapping the muzzle
But for the most part the trigger and a good bedding job will get you some consistant groups , but I woulden't throw to much money at it them end up rebarreling it anyway
Fiftydriver
Official LRH Sponsor
For factory rifles I recommend the following to my customers:
-Trigger job
-Bed receiver
-Lap bolt lugs
-Recut the muzzle crown
I recommend these things because I feel they will get my customers the most bang for their buck. There are many other things you can do but unless you rebarrel and fully accurize the receiver, in my opinion, on average your wasting your money because more often then not, if the short list above does not make a good shooter, more then likely the problem is in the barrel or the machining of the receiver.
There is only one way to correctly solve those problems.
Sometimes the above will make great shooters out of factory rifles, that is why I recommend them first. Also, when you do a complete accurizing process, the above steps would be done anyway so the customer is not spending money a second time, they are just paying for a complete accurizing job in two parts.
This also allows you to see if the rifle will be a shooter without alot invested in the rifle to start with. Some of them suprise you how well they shoot. Good thing most are not this way many of us rifle builders would be out of work!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Kirby Allen(50)
-Trigger job
-Bed receiver
-Lap bolt lugs
-Recut the muzzle crown
I recommend these things because I feel they will get my customers the most bang for their buck. There are many other things you can do but unless you rebarrel and fully accurize the receiver, in my opinion, on average your wasting your money because more often then not, if the short list above does not make a good shooter, more then likely the problem is in the barrel or the machining of the receiver.
There is only one way to correctly solve those problems.
Sometimes the above will make great shooters out of factory rifles, that is why I recommend them first. Also, when you do a complete accurizing process, the above steps would be done anyway so the customer is not spending money a second time, they are just paying for a complete accurizing job in two parts.
This also allows you to see if the rifle will be a shooter without alot invested in the rifle to start with. Some of them suprise you how well they shoot. Good thing most are not this way many of us rifle builders would be out of work!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Kirby Allen(50)
To answer you question James, I'm from a small community just north of McComb, MS. Most of my hunting is in Amite County just west of McComb. Although on occasions, different locations around the state. My current health has started to limit my ability to walk and scout new countryside, so I'm hoping to add a little more range to my confidence. My love for hunting is at its best when my Matthews bow is in my hand, my ability to shoot well is still there, but being able to get in a tree is almost gone. Although my best hunting trip this past year happened about 200 yards behind my house when my 8 year old daughter took her first deer(a good 4point) with a 243 I bought for her. One shot, one kill at about 100 yards. It was the first time I have had buck fever in years, and I was on the sidelines. That feeling is better than any 140 class buck anywhere. I've already had to promise her my Browning 308 when she grows up enough. If you have never taken a kid hunting, and dont have one of your own, borrow one, both of you will have the best time of your lives. Better for them to be in the woods than on the streets.
Telkev,
I am from McComb also (just north in Ruth) if you ever want to shoot just give me a hollar. I have a decent range out to 300 and one spot where I can shoot 500...well 750 if I tresspass just a bit. I have a custom .300WSM that I am loading for and would gladly pass along any data you might desire. You will like the WSM. I had my doubts about it because everyone said it was hype. Maybe it was hype, I dont know, but I know mine shoots great.
I am from McComb also (just north in Ruth) if you ever want to shoot just give me a hollar. I have a decent range out to 300 and one spot where I can shoot 500...well 750 if I tresspass just a bit. I have a custom .300WSM that I am loading for and would gladly pass along any data you might desire. You will like the WSM. I had my doubts about it because everyone said it was hype. Maybe it was hype, I dont know, but I know mine shoots great.
Dude, if you are who I am pretty sure you are, just get with smitty he will hook you up. Yall both come see me when you you can I would love to help out with break in and working a load up for your new guns. Smitty has my number, give me a call anytime.
auton
Well-Known Member
I sent my win 70 300 WSM to Hill Country in Texas for their accurizing job......very sweet! shoots 1/2" @ 100 yards with my handloads.
