Accuracy issue in BAR 7mm rem mag

Cbmiro

New Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2014
Messages
2
Location
Alabama Gulf Coast
New to LRH and I'm desperate for an answer to recent accuracy problems. I always read the posts from you guys or gals about different issues and I wish the knowledge could be bottled.

Here goes,

Details:

Browning-BAR 7mm rem magnum.

I've owned this gun for 20 years or so. At purchase and up until about a year ago this gun was extremely accurate. It has started to fly rounds even at close distance (50 yds). It is unpredictable. it will shoot a couple rounds close and then fly them away again. See the attached picture, that is 300yds with my best shooting factory ammo, federal premium, noslar partition SP, 160 grain, with a solid bench (lead sled). I've used many different factory loads with no success. This gun LOVED the FP 160's.

I can't associate the inaccuracy to a single event. I've had a couple of gunsmiths look at the gun (one said possible cleaning issue the other couldn't find anything) and recently sent it back to Browning arms. I only spoke to customer service and they advised my forearm needed to be refitted. I recently received The gun with a new forearm and stock. Took to the range and discovered it still has accuracy issues. It started out looking good but after 20 rounds I discovered a 5 1/2 inch group at 100 and the photo is 300 yds. I made sure the gun is clean and waited between shots. After a few shots, I noticed the flying so I let the barrel completely cool down, sometimes 10- 20 minutes between shots. I tried shooting closer shooting times and everything I could think of. I can't find the problem. The crown looks good. The picture says it all. You can see the two shots at the bottom. That's how this gun has performed.

I've dropped the gun off at a third gunsmith now and I guess I'm looking for expert advise. I'm in a place I don't like. I've had an extreme amount of confidence in this rifle but now it's definitely in question. I'm on the eve of a New Mexico elk hunt and just trying to find a way to bring this gun back. I usually shoot it 20 to 50 times a year.

Does anyone know any BAR secrets or can provide advice? Is it time to get a custom rifle?
 

Attachments

  • photo (2).jpg
    photo (2).jpg
    62.7 KB · Views: 862
Last edited:
C, welcome to the forum. Check the crown for damage. Number of rounds fired and barrel cleaning can affect barrels. Perhaps you can find a smith with a bore-scope to look at the barrel, it could be worn or damaged. BAR's are high quality. If a rebarrel is in order, you would have the opportunity to improve performance. Good luck
 
Thanks Dosh. One of the smiths had one, I viewed, it showed some rust/corrosion and wear but not major. The crown has been checked by all three. I think you are right on, a new barrel may solve my issues and I'm considering this option.
 
I bought 3 BARs and took them to the range, a 300WM, and two 338WM.

They averaged 2 moa.
 
Just my opinion, but there is no such thing as minor rust / corrosion in the bore of a rifle. If the bore scope showed any corrosion at all, I would get another barrel or a new rifle.

Good Luck
 
The Browning Bar can be one exceptionally accurate rifle when it is tuned correctly. Case In example is the FNAR. It is a BAR in fancy clothes.

To tune a BAR you need to work on the seating depth of the bullet. The bullet itself. Try solid copper to thin skin jacketed conventional bullets.

What your trying to do here is to change the barrel harmonics and find the node. Gunsmiths do not understand this automatic rifle compared to the inferior AR rifles.

Bed the forearm. Yes it can be done by those that know how.

If that does not work then cut the barrel in 1/8 inch increments until you find it.

These are the greatest factors among many that will tune this.

You can short cut this process and put a QUE brake on it.

This is the rifle that forced Browning to develop the BOSS.
 
The forearms of the BAR's can give you much grief. The screw in the forearm is often the culprit....even with "gun smiths" looking it over they can miss it. Shorten the forearm bedding screw and see if that helps. I have seen this on 3 BAR's.
 
With an FAL one can tune the gas bypass with a turn of a knob. This adjusts the rifle to the ammo. Enough gas to operate without jamming[small enough bypass hole], not so much gas the bolt hammers the frame [big enough bypass hole]. The recoil buffer helps a little with frame hammering. Check out the condition of that part.

But a BAR regulator is fixed. I like to load really hot [11 gr more H4350 for 140gr than Hodgdon says is max], and tune the rifle to the ammo.

The regulator in a BAR is just a 9/16-24 ultra fine thread bolt with a hole in
it. If FALs have adjustable by pass gas, BARs have fixed jets.

It is easier to modify a different cartridge regulator than to fabricate a regulator from a piece of steel. I have done both. [Look for a lack of bluing to spot the one I fabricated from scratch]

a) 7mm Mag is .066" hole
b) 300 Mag is .077" hole [p/n B3176146]
c) 338 Mag is .059" hole
d) My home made is .078" hole
e) recoil buffer [p/n B3176065]
 

Attachments

  • BAR gas Regulators.jpg
    BAR gas Regulators.jpg
    44.6 KB · Views: 452
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top