A somewhat different contour question...

[ShootMo]

Hi all!!
I've been an avid reader here at LRH for quite a while. I love the depth of information present, as well as the classy way it is usually presented.

My question:
I'm putting together my very first long range rifle. I've been shooting since my pointer finger was strong enough to make a Daisy BB gun go pop. But I've caught the long range bug and want a rifle that shoots way better than I do, to learn with.
I'm a carpenter by trade, so I don't make a six figure salary a year. So my parts and pieces reflect that.

Savage Axis donor barrelled action--barrel is soon to be replaced, hence my question here.
MDT LSS Chassis that I found for $179.00 because of small scratches.

A*B Arms buttstock

LaRue Tactical mount (thanks to a member here for a very generous discount, buying it used.)

Riton RT-S Mod5 Gen II 6-24x56 - - bigger glass than needed, but the price was amazing.

Now... To the question. I have an obscene amount of room between the current sporter contour barrel and the chassis forend. Just a cosmetic thing for me, but if I'm replacing the barrel anyway.... I'm curious about running full-shank-diameter from the action to the end of the forend and beginning it's contour there, to the muzzle. Kind of like a really elongated Palma contour of sorts. Are there widely known reasons why this kind of taper could be flawed logic on my part? Last thing I want is this weird idea to be a leading reason for problems down the road due to some harminic anomoly or something that I'm not aware of.

Thanks in advance for any input on the contour question.

 

[elkaholic]

Cant say as Ive seen that but other than weight, I dont know why it wouldnt shoot just fine if properly bedded.

 

[ShootMo]

Believe it or not, MDT says zero bedding.



Thank you for the response. I can't really see why it could be detrimental to contour it like I'm thinking from a physics standpoint. But I don't know diddly about barrel science. Lots left for me to learn.

 

[elkaholic]

Interesting. Usually with a really heavy barrel like youre talking about I would bed a couple inches ahead of the lug for support but Ive never had that stock either?

 

[Mram10us]

I don't see how any contour is at a disadvantage. It should shoot something very well. The "no bedding" surprised me. I am ignorant to chassis though.

 

[David Emerson]

Hi all!!
I've been an avid reader here at LRH for quite a while. I love the depth of information present, as well as the classy way it is usually presented.

My question:
I'm putting together my very first long range rifle. I've been shooting since my pointer finger was strong enough to make a Daisy BB gun go pop. But I've caught the long range bug and want a rifle that shoots way better than I do, to learn with.
I'm a carpenter by trade, so I don't make a six figure salary a year. So my parts and pieces reflect that.

Savage Axis donor barrelled action--barrel is soon to be replaced, hence my question here.
MDT LSS Chassis that I found for $179.00 because of small scratches.

A*B Arms buttstock

LaRue Tactical mount (thanks to a member here for a very generous discount, buying it used.)

Riton RT-S Mod5 Gen II 6-24x56 - - bigger glass than needed, but the price was amazing.

Now... To the question. I have an obscene amount of room between the current sporter contour barrel and the chassis forend. Just a cosmetic thing for me, but if I'm replacing the barrel anyway.... I'm curious about running full-shank-diameter from the action to the end of the forend and beginning it's contour there, to the muzzle. Kind of like a really elongated Palma contour of sorts. Are there widely known reasons why this kind of taper could be flawed logic on my part? Last thing I want is this weird idea to be a leading reason for problems down the road due to some harminic anomoly or something that I'm not aware of.

View attachment 169265

View attachment 169266
Thanks in advance for any input on the contour question.

Only problem is it would be quite heavy and also muzzle heavy and unbalanced.

 

[J E Custom]

From a structural stand point A straight taper is best because the as barrel gets farther away from the receiver it gets lighter, but has even strength Moment From the muzzle back to the shank where it is supported.

A full diameter barrel from the receiver to the muzzle is not necessary for strength, but it does help the barrel harmonics. With long barrels It does place extra loads on the receiver and bedding. It also makes the rifle very barrel heavy, especially on barrels much over 20" (To short for Long range cartridges where velocity means so much).

Contoured barrels have good aesthetics and good balance and are the lightest of the different barrels of the same length and bore diameter. They are the most common barrel configuration used.

In my experiences, straight tapers have been the most accurate for the usable weight and length used. My favorite barrel taper for short barrels has been the hunter bench taper with .025 thousandths taper per inch. It is very strong structurally and the muzzle is normal size with the barrel cut to 20 to 22 inches.

If you want to closely fit a barrel to your stock Measure the shank area of the stock and then measure the barrel channel at the forend tip and with those to dimensions you will be able to find a barrel contour that will fit. Most stocks are designed for a contour so without a bunch of channel scrapping a straight taper or a Bull barrel will not work. Look on line at your favorite barrel maker and look at his contour charts and you will be able to find the one that best fits your stock.

J E CUSTOM

 

[codyadams]

Shouldn't cause any issues that you are speaking of, however the two downsides would be a lot of extra weight, and somewhat of an upcharge for a custom barrel contour. I have heard that running too heavy of a contour without an extended tennon length can sometimes cause issues, but have never seen it first hand. Possibly something to research first?

If the rifle is used for anything other than sitting on a bench type shooting, it would get old hauling that thing around. On one of my first long range rigs I put a 30" medium palma contour barrel, with a 3# stock and lightish scope it was still nearly 14 lbs, and while it was pleasant to shoot, packing it hunting sucked due to the weight as well as the length. It also didn't off hand shoulder very well due to being way too muzzle heavy.

A good solution, though a little more money, would be a carbon fiber barrel.....Hells canyon Armory, Proof, and Carbon Six all have good barrels, can make pre-fits, and if you are former military, the latter two give discounts, HCA may as well, I just haven't inquired. That would give you a good fitting contour to fill your forend very well and be aesthetically pleasing, and not leave you with a 15+lb rifle, likely would be only ounces heavier than your rifle currently is.

I also know what it is like to play this game with limited income, law enforcement is what I do, and I have 3 kids and a wife that just finished up nursing school....It is hard, but you already have a nice rig, if a carbon barrel is something you would want, there is no harm in running your rifle how it is a few more months and putting on something that, in the end, will make your time behind that rifle more enjoyable!!

 

[CoastalShooter907]

Proof makes carbon and steel pre-fits for the savage as well. Dont know if the axis uses the same thread tenon as the small or large shank 10/110 type actions though.

 

[Greyfox]

I use a few chassis' for both PRS and hunting. The gap between the ballet and chassis is is quite characteristic, and the degree of the space between barrel chassis has no influence on the performance. I would not underestimate the amount of weight you would be adding by using the contour you are suggesting, and would question the effect on the rifles handling and balance. I generally use a Palma contour, light for hunting, heavy or MTU for competition. Aesthetically, the contour you are suggesting may look strange on the rifle. If weight is not an issue, I would simply go with a larger standard contour like the MTU, which does a good job of using much of the space, but also will add weight. IMO.

 

[ShootMo]

Shouldn't cause any issues that you are speaking of, however the two downsides would be a lot of extra weight, and somewhat of an upcharge for a custom barrel contour. I have heard that running too heavy of a contour without an extended tennon length can sometimes cause issues, but have never seen it first hand. Possibly something to research first?

If the rifle is used for anything other than sitting on a bench type shooting, it would get old hauling that thing around. On one of my first long range rigs I put a 30" medium palma contour barrel, with a 3# stock and lightish scope it was still nearly 14 lbs, and while it was pleasant to shoot, packing it hunting sucked due to the weight as well as the length. It also didn't off hand shoulder very well due to being way too muzzle heavy.

A good solution, though a little more money, would be a carbon fiber barrel.....Hells canyon Armory, Proof, and Carbon Six all have good barrels, can make pre-fits, and if you are former military, the latter two give discounts, HCA may as well, I just haven't inquired. That would give you a good fitting contour to fill your forend very well and be aesthetically pleasing, and not leave you with a 15+lb rifle, likely would be only ounces heavier than your rifle currently is.

I also know what it is like to play this game with limited income, law enforcement is what I do, and I have 3 kids and a wife that just finished up nursing school....It is hard, but you already have a nice rig, if a carbon barrel is something you would want, there is no harm in running your rifle how it is a few more months and putting on something that, in the end, will make your time behind that rifle more enjoyable!!

As it sits, the rifle weighs 10.5 lbs. So I will definitely have to consider weight additions. As for the purpose of this rifle in hunting, it's only role will be from a treestand to hunt over CRP fields and power line right of ways. So I won't be hiking lots of ridges all day carrying it.

Proof makes carbon and steel pre-fits for the savage as well. Dont know if the axis uses the same thread tenon as the small or large shank 10/110 type actions though.

The axis is threaded for small shank barrels.

I use a few chassis' for both PRS and hunting. The gap between the ballet and chassis is is quite characteristic, and the degree of the space between barrel chassis has no influence on the performance. I would not underestimate the amount of weight you would be adding by using the contour you are suggesting, and would question the effect on the rifles handling and balance. I generally use a Palma contour, light for hunting, heavy or MTU for competition. Aesthetically, the contour you are suggesting may look strange on the rifle. If weight is not an issue, I would simply go with a larger standard contour like the MTU, which does a good job of using much of the space, but also will add weight. IMO.

Thank you for the recommendations. I'll definitely consider them.

 

[epoletna]

You haven't talked about changing the barrel channel in the stock. IOW, you can change the barrel profile or you can change the barrel channel in the stock. Epoxy resin filled with a light filler material (micro balloons or flocking) would change the "gap" in the barrel channel without adding much weight.

 

[ShootMo]

You haven't talked about changing the barrel channel in the stock. IOW, you can change the barrel profile or you can change the barrel channel in the stock. Epoxy resin filled with a light filler material (micro balloons or flocking) would change the "gap" in the barrel channel without adding much weight.

Well this is a facepalm moment! Lol. That's simply brilliant. Thank you epoletna!

 

[J E Custom]

You haven't talked about changing the barrel channel in the stock. IOW, you can change the barrel profile or you can change the barrel channel in the stock. Epoxy resin filled with a light filler material (micro balloons or flocking) would change the "gap" in the barrel channel without adding much weight.

Changing the barrel channel Is the normal way to get the best fit. Normally a smith will /can chose one size larger contour and scrape the barrel channel to fit.

J E CUSTOM