6mm Creedmoor issue

[Starlite]

CLR is the best that ive found for removing stubborn hard carbon. I just used it today to clean a muzzle brake that you couldnt chip the carbon with a chisel.

That being said.....Be careful with it near any "blued" surfaces it will take off bluing in minutes. Always rinse & neutralize it with water or rubbing alcohol when finished cleaning the part.

Just a word of caution.

So I've got some CLR
What is the process to rid this carbon ring?

 

[MNbogboy]

This is a crude tool i made years ago to tackle carbon at the case mouth and the throat.
A cleaning patch is rolled up and inserteted in this case and then soaked with CLR. Then carefully steer it into the chamber. The soaked patch moistens the suspect carbon. The slit and bent brass tabs also scrape the soften carbon at the front of the neck. The soaked patch also delivers the CLR to the throat area. After the CLR has sat for a few minutes normal cleaning tools (brush) will most likely remove the offending carbon.

Note: the case must slide easily into the chamber and the neck must reach the end of the chamber for the "bent brass tabs" to effectively clean the neck carbon.

The CLR tricks work best with barrel removed if at all possible.

The stuff is nasty, notice the green tarnish on the tool.

 

[Starlite]

View attachment 243417View attachment 243418View attachment 243419

This is a crude tool i made years ago to tackle carbon at the case mouth and the throat.
A cleaning patch is rolled up and inserteted in this case and then soaked with CLR. Then carefully steer it into the chamber. The soaked patch moistens the suspect carbon. The slit and bent brass tabs also scrape the soften carbon at the front of the neck. The soaked patch also delivers the CLR to the throat area. After the CLR has sat for a few minutes normal cleaning tools (brush) will most likely remove the offending carbon.

Note: the case must slide easily into the chamber and the neck must reach the end of the chamber for the "bent brass tabs" to effectively clean the neck carbon.

The CLR tricks work best with barrel removed if at all possible.

The stuff is nasty, notice the green tarnish on the tool.

I've tried 3 times using CLR allowing this area to soak for several minutes to 40min. Have had minimal success. Will keep at it.
I did contact Hornady. The data is correct. They did say they have had several issues; tight tolerances and short throats in many different Co. rifles.

 

[MNbogboy]

Always frustrating when nothing seems to work.
I do remember you saying the bergers chambered when the hornady doesn't.
Their measurements of . 2425 and .2430 make sense if it is a "tight" throat or carbon built up.
Two questions;
1. Was this first noticed the very first time you used the Hornady bullets?
2. Is the "scrape mark" all the way around on those bullets or just on one side?
This is a shot in the dark.
If the throat is "tight" but borderline, a "scrape" on one side only may indicate a concentricity problem. If the Hornady V-max are flat base it is possible they are "canting" a slight amount during seating.

Hope you get this solved.
Randy

 

[slikmrc]

I was loading some 87 gr vmax for 6 mm rem and broke out the micrometer and measured a few bullets. .2430 to .2432 readings, didn't find any undersized bullets. Rifle hasn't shot these bullets well, giving them one more try. With any luck you've got some build up and not a barrel chambered with a worn out reamer

 

[Rflshootr]

I've tried 3 times using CLR allowing this area to soak for several minutes to 40min. Have had minimal success. Will keep at it.
I did contact Hornady. The data is correct. They did say they have had several issues; tight tolerances and short throats in many different Co. rifles.

I'm just curious....how much of the bearing surface is in the case neck at book length?

 

[Starlite]

Always frustrating when nothing seems to work.
I do remember you saying the bergers chambered when the hornady doesn't.
Their measurements of . 2425 and .2430 make sense if it is a "tight" throat or carbon built up.
Two questions;
1. Was this first noticed the very first time you used the Hornady bullets?
2. Is the "scrape mark" all the way around on those bullets or just on one side?
This is a shot in the dark.
If the throat is "tight" but borderline, a "scrape" on one side only may indicate a concentricity problem. If the Hornady V-max are flat base it is possible they are "canting" a slight amount during seating.

Hope you get this solved.
Randy

After looking at all my data and confirming my callipers are correct. I went and loaded some Barnes 95gr FBX (gen 1 pills) to the same CBTO. They will bolt over ;but hard and do leave marks. Not all around as the 87gr VMAX did.
FWIW THE 90gr Berger,109 Berger and the 87gr all have the same CBTO. SO.. seeing that the Berger's diameter is 1-5 ten thou smaller it makes sense that these VMAX are giving me aggravation. If this is a carbon issue and not some other unseen bore issue then I'll be spraying this with tactical wipeout ( ordered today along with a proper borescope (well sort of) ) it has a 5.5mm head.

well back to cleaning for the fourth time

 

[Starlite]

I'm just curious....how much of the bearing surface is in the case neck at book length?

With the 75gr. Very little. I think I posted the math. The pill is .933. Brass is 1.910 OAL IS 2.640. So ~.203

 

[Starlite]

There is still something there. Just can't see it. This has been the result four times but minimal improvement on being able to cam over these 75 VMAX

 

[MNbogboy]

There is still something there. Just can't see it. This has been the result four times but minimal improvement on being able to cam over these 75 VMAX

There are a number of "throat polishing" threads on various forums. This might give you the clearance you need as well as finish of any carbon you may have left.

For instance (never tried this myself) but sounds like it may work. Drill & tap the primer pocket of a sized case. Make up a long rod to use as a handle. Seat a bullet to desired depth and add some style of abrasive compound (JB bore paste, iosso paste, flitz etc) to the bullet only. Spin by hand or slowly with a drill. Clean & check fit often with a clean dummy case.

Remember a little goes a long way. You probably only need .0001 or .0002

This may work for the carbon with the JB paste. I use JB on a tight patch or on a wrapped brush for periodic throat maintenance and it removes all throat carbon down to bare metal. Sometimes if you haven't done it for a while it can take 100 strokes or more.

 

[Skeeter05]

There is still something there. Just can't see it. This has been the result four times but minimal improvement on being able to cam over these 75 VMAX

What you describe sounds like carbon build up. I have encountered this before, the best cleaner/carbon remover that I have ever ran across is toluene. The throat soaked in toluene for an hour, then scrubbed with a nylon brush, will have the throat as clean as the day it was machined.

 

[dragon798]

You are getting a lot of advice as to different chemicals to put in that barrel, and this could be disastrous. Unless you're a chemist I wouldn't put anything in that barrel that wasn't made for it. Furthermore, I strongly suggest you speak with one of the barrel manufacturers about how to handle this. I spoke with Frank Green at Bartlein, and I promise you he did not suggest I use any of the things I've seen suggested. His suggestion is soak the throat with Hoppes #9, overnight and then use a patch wrapped brush to short stroke the throat. He also said JB Bore Compound, not Bore Brite, to help remove the stubborn carbon, followed by Hoppes. He said there are a lot of chemicals that can etch or pit the barrel.

 

[Oldtime Shooter13]

You are getting a lot of advice as to different chemicals to put in that barrel, and this could be disastrous. Unless you're a chemist I wouldn't put anything in that barrel that wasn't made for it. Furthermore, I strongly suggest you speak with one of the barrel manufacturers about how to handle this. I spoke with Frank Green at Bartlein, and I promise you he did not suggest I use any of the things I've seen suggested. His suggestion is soak the throat with Hoppes #9, overnight and then use a patch wrapped brush to short stroke the throat. He also said JB Bore Compound, not Bore Brite, to help remove the stubborn carbon, followed by Hoppes. He said there are a lot of chemicals that can etch or pit the barrel.

Good Advice

 

[243winxb]

Post 50 . Photo of carbon ring & cleaning method.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...cleaning-with-more-teslong-pics.860996/page-2

Other online photos seem to show carbon in a small area. Not the full length of the throat?

This photo is said to be a 6mm Rem after 7000 shots.