338 RUM Barrel options?

[bronco]

I currently own a Rem 700 BDL SS in 300 RUM (not a Sendero). I put it in a Bell and Carlson Alaskan II stock with a full aluminium bedding block and a 15" LOP. I would like to keep that stock and not modify it. That being said I now want to rebarrel it to 338RUM. The stock is fit for a Remington Magnum Contour Barrel. Looking for as much range as possible but I know with a barrel that thin, I will be limited. I want to keep the weight down but still balance long range accuracy.

1. What are my contour options for a custom barrel that will fit in this stock?

2. What length should I be looking at? 26"or 28"

3. I am looking to shoot 250grn pills. What twist should I be looking at?

4. Thoughts on muzzle brakes? Brands and models?

5. Thoughts on barrel crown options?

6. Barrel brands? Who should I be looking at and is there any to avoid?

Thanks,
Bronco

 

[J E Custom]

I currently own a Rem 700 BDL SS in 300 RUM (not a Sendero). I put it in a Bell and Carlson Alaskan II stock with a full aluminium bedding block and a 15" LOP. I would like to keep that stock and not modify it. That being said I now want to rebarrel it to 338RUM. The stock is fit for a Remington Magnum Contour Barrel. Looking for as much range as possible but I know with a barrel that thin, I will be limited. I want to keep the weight down but still balance long range accuracy.

1. What are my contour options for a custom barrel that will fit in this stock?

2. What length should I be looking at? 26"or 28"

3. I am looking to shoot 250grn pills. What twist should I be looking at?

4. Thoughts on muzzle brakes? Brands and models?

5. Thoughts on barrel crown options?

6. Barrel brands? Who should I be looking at and is there any to avoid?

Thanks,
Bronco

To start with most of the premium barrel makers have a contour that will match your stock,
simply measure the barrel at the brake and muzzle and match it to one of there barrels.
(Different barrel makers use different contour numbers)

For a carry rifle with a brake I would recomend a 26" barrel.

A 1 in 10 twist will work well in the .338 rum with the 250 grain pills.

Any of the ported brakes will work well just look for what you like and can afford.
There are many. The Ross Schuler is one of the best deals right now for a good brake.

Crowns are a personal preference some Like the 90o with a break and some like the 11o.
I personally like the 11o for all crowns.

Barrel brands are another personal preference and as long as you dont go cheep you are
in good shape.

Buy the best barrel that the barrel maker of your choice makes.

I know this is vague but there are a lot of choices.

PM me if you want "MY" preferences.

J E CUSTOM

 

[bronco]

So as I have continued my research I have taken a hard look at all the big named barrel companies. This is what I am leaning towards for little if any in-letting.

Broughton 4.1 MAGNUM SPORTER .850" down to .660" At 28" finish 4.2lbs

I have been weighing the choice of a 26" to 28" still but as this is a 30" blank I can have either

.660 at the muzzle at 28" and by my math it would be .676 at 26" or .668 at 27"

Would the 28" to long for the light barrel and .338 pill? (whipping?)
Would The barrel perform better at 26" because its a little stiffer

I have decided on a 1in10 twist, DE .750 Brake and 11 degree crown as well.

I am still open to conventional or 5c Rifling. Any suggestions?

 

[J E Custom]

So as I have continued my research I have taken a hard look at all the big named barrel companies. This is what I am leaning towards for little if any in-letting.

Broughton 4.1 MAGNUM SPORTER .850" down to .660" At 28" finish 4.2lbs

I have been weighing the choice of a 26" to 28" still but as this is a 30" blank I can have either

.660 at the muzzle at 28" and by my math it would be .676 at 26" or .668 at 27"

Would the 28" to long for the light barrel and .338 pill? (whipping?)
Would The barrel perform better at 26" because its a little stiffer

I have decided on a 1in10 twist, DE .750 Brake and 11 degree crown as well.

I am still open to conventional or 5c Rifling. Any suggestions?

This is just my opinion, so take it for that.

It sounds like you are trying to limit the weight of the rifle. I would go with the 26" because
you will probably want a muzzle break on it and It will end up being over 28".

On the "Whipping" The shorter barrel will be stiffer (By how much is the question).

28" barrels will get a little more velocity than the 26" but not that much so if you wanted to go
longer (28 to 30") I would try to increase the barrel contour by at least 1 size (You might have
to open the stock just a little but the added strength and weight would be worth it.

I prefer 6 grove rifling on large heavy bullets for .30 and 338 caliber and when I go over .375 I
like to go to 8 groove for better and cleaner engraving on the bullet.

For an all out long range 338 rifle the longest(Practical) and heaviest contoured barrel is desirable
but these are not practical if you intend to carry the rifle long distances.

So my recommendation if you want that contour would be a 26" 6 groove barrel with a break,
fully bedded and floated for first shot consistency.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Outlaw6.0]

I believe JE's posts are right on. For a carry rifle, 26" is all you're going to need (especially with the break). Even my 16lb ELR 338RUM is wearing a 27" bbl & my velocities with the 300's are 2780fps, not to shabby

The 338RUM is a great cartridge & I don't feel that I am loosing anything short of the brass to a Lapua.

The DE break is also a fine choice, you will be happy with that.

As to the type of rifling you are asking about (JE could probably help more), with the 338RUM you probably won't see much of an advantage either way. My experience with the 5r rifling (I do have one in 6.5) is where the engraving force of the lands cause issues with thin jacketed bullets at extreme velocities. For instance a 140grn VLD in the 3300+ area, after a few hundred rounds (especially in an overbore cartridge like mine) the rough throat combined with the more "conventional" rifling can lead to some bad juju with the VLD's & high velocity.

That's my philosophy anyway.

 

[bronco]

So I got a hold of Bell and Carlson and I called Stocky's. I have been informed the Alaskan II stock can be inletted to take a barrel up to .750 at the muzzle. So I have re-elected to go with the #5.5 Broughton at 26". I was being impractical looking for skinny barrels in 338 and wanting to take them out to range. If it worked; other people would build them like that too. I have no business re inventing the wheel. It will be light enough to pack all day and heavy enough to shoot some distance. Here is my build plan for your approval:

338 RUM
700 SS action (blueprinted)
B&C Alaskan II 15"LOP
Wyatt's mag box MBE-3
#5.5 Broughton 5C Barrel .750 at 26" SS
Skim bedded with a full aluminium block
DE .750 muzzle brake
Jewell Trigger HVR 2.75 -3lbs

Glass and mounting TBD...
I own a lot of Zeiss but I am leaning toward the NF NXS 5.5-22x50 (or 56) with zerostop (MOAR? or NPR1?)

I will be working with R Bros Rifles for the build

Thoughts?

 

[trebark]

1. Check with your stock manufacturer, they will tell you the maximum barrel contour that will fit without modification. They will also be able to tell you how much you can modify the stock (expand the barrel channel) without compromising the integrity of the stock.

2. Go 28 or longer.

3. with a 1:10 you will be able to shoot the 250grainer AND 300grainers

4. Muscle Brake by CSR Center Shot Rifles - Products / Sales - Muzzle Brakes

5. No preference here and it doesn't particularly matter if you put a brake on the rifle.

6. All the custom barrel manufacturers are good. What's more important is the smith that puts it all together.