300wm loaders help me

[Shane1]

The new bolt would require the lugs to be lapped in and head space set on the barrel. That would not be what I would do at this time. If you were rebarreling or a set back then yes.

The case and fine compound will work. Or I have used a tight fitting bore mop, some compound and added a wrap with some thin cloth as needed too. I used JB paste for compound. I powered it with a cordless drill and a section of old 22 cleaning rod that screwed together. Crude for sure. Take great care to not get into the throat area and do two very thorough cleanings after including the bore. I was having extraction issues with a rusty chamber on a old family rifle. It worked great.

Jeff

Perfect I have some JB,a tight bore mop and a brass screw together rod, I thank you this will be easier then cutting, drilling, taping a case perfectly straight.

 

[Broz]

Perfect I have some JB,a tight bore mop and a brass screw together rod, I thank you this will be easier then cutting, drilling, taping a case perfectly straight.

It will take a while, add cloth or patches to keep it tight.

Jeff

 

[Shane1]

It will take a while, add cloth or patches to keep it tight.

Jeff

Will do. thanks again.

 

[BGE541]

Some valve grinding compound would do a good job of making that chamber loosen up! Hope that works for you and allows you to re-chamber cases. If you have any interest in a PTG or Tubbs bolt let me know and ill see what we can do. Until then enjoy your project!

 

[Shane1]

Some valve grinding compound would do a good job of making that chamber loosen up! Hope that works for you and allows you to re-chamber cases. If you have any interest in a PTG or Tubbs bolt let me know and ill see what we can do. Until then enjoy your project!

I think the valve grind compound followed by the jb polish would have been the ticket, maybe just valve grind compound, it's another sleepless night working on a gun, thanks for your help and offer on the bolt. I'll let you know,
Shane.


Thanks again to all who offered expertise and help.

 

[rewinder]

Purchase a 300 Weatherby FL die and a shell holder. Grind down the shell holder .005 to .010. It sizes the brass without touching the shoulders. Sizes all the way down to the belt. I use a 300 Win Mag to reduce the swelling on my 7 mag belts. Cost $40. Randy

 

[Bart B]

Purchase a 300 Weatherby FL die and a shell holder. Grind down the shell holder .005 to .010. It sizes the brass without touching the shoulders. Sizes all the way down to the belt. I use a 300 Win Mag to reduce the swelling on my 7 mag belts. Cost $40.

I first heard of such practice decades ago. I tried it with my .30-.338 cases with a borrowed .300 Wby Mag die. Didn't work.

The reason was the radiused edge of the die's belt clearance to the body was too great. The ridge in front of the fired case belt didn't get sized back down to virtual new case dimension all the way to the belt. When the die was set to size all the way to the belt, the belt's front edge got sized down a bit and I didn't like that.

After asking a few folks about this, their advice was to cut the middle out of a standard 30 caliber full length die having the same body taper as a .338 Win Mag then grind its bottom square with only a tiny radius on the edge. This let the die be set in the press so it would just barely touch the fired case belt with the ram at its top sizing the case body all the way to the belt; not a few thousandths in front of it.