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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
300prc to 375 ruger ?
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<blockquote data-quote="Dean2" data-source="post: 3056270" data-attributes="member: 26077"><p>I have formed many, many thousand brass both up and down. (SEE 460 BEE to 338 378 above as one example) I have tried every combination and permutation possible. I have developed my process to the point I no longer need any special forming dies, I can do all of it using just a variety of seating, FL and Neck dies. You can choose not to believe my experience if you like but I can guarantee that annealed brass does not form as well or easly unless it is extraordinarily hard, as in it has been shot and loaded 6 or more times. Annealing after forming, to prevent neck or shoulder splits when fire forming is however a very good idea because forming work hardens the brass and the more you move it, the more it hardens. It will however never split, not will it crush as easily during forming if it isn't annealed.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dean2, post: 3056270, member: 26077"] I have formed many, many thousand brass both up and down. (SEE 460 BEE to 338 378 above as one example) I have tried every combination and permutation possible. I have developed my process to the point I no longer need any special forming dies, I can do all of it using just a variety of seating, FL and Neck dies. You can choose not to believe my experience if you like but I can guarantee that annealed brass does not form as well or easly unless it is extraordinarily hard, as in it has been shot and loaded 6 or more times. Annealing after forming, to prevent neck or shoulder splits when fire forming is however a very good idea because forming work hardens the brass and the more you move it, the more it hardens. It will however never split, not will it crush as easily during forming if it isn't annealed. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
300prc to 375 ruger ?
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