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.300 Blk Out needs?šŸ¤”

The wife decided to pick up a little Ruger bolt gun in .300 BO. Neat, handy little rifle. If they made a southpaw version, i'd have one too....

The 110 Tac TX has performed very well over a stiff charge of H110 @ 2440fps (16"bbl). They are a little on the expensive side but they shoot very well & handle large Wyoming mule deer admirably.

220yds- 300 BO w/110 Barnes Tac-TX
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You haven't really said much about what your goals are for your soon to be set up.
See my #10 šŸ˜‡ My goals are pretty much what you listedā€¦..and generally just to try something different. Another member here jokingly gave me a hard time on Saturday for NOT owning an ARā€¦..so I went out and bought one about an hour later. šŸ˜‚šŸ¤£
The 300 BO is a fun little cartridge especially if you're running suppressed.
Currently waiting on a YMH Resonator (R2) to be graced upon meā€¦
If you're running an AR platform, the 190 Sub-X rounds may have an issue feeding if you seat the bullets deep enough to make a compact subsonic load with CFE Blk so you may want to try a different powder if you're trying to stay subsonic.
Yeah, trying to stay sub-sonic, mostly. My LGS got in a pretty good shipment of powder last week to include quite a bit of H110 so thank you for that good info there. šŸ‘
 
SFP is fine. If I had my druthers I'd just get one with a German reticle with a single illuminated point though. If you fiddle with a ballistic engine you'll see that you can zero at about 150 and just hold dead on from zero to ~200 on a 4-6" zone depending on barrel length. Past that you're really lacking in velocity so for hunting no need for more scope in my opinion.

For loading I'm just using Redding FL dies and a Lee factory crimp die. No issues there. For supers H110/W296 are the go to's. Subs are a different topic. If you have a finicky gun it will work with 1680 because 1680 makes a ton of gas volume but it's also way louder at the ejection port. From what I gather the grail in quiet is N110.
 
Nothing to offer on reloading but here is my setup. BRN-180 pistol, 10" barrel, with folding brace, Burris Fastfire 3 red dot, and YHM Resonator. Can be shot with the brace folded. Zeroed at 100 yds. with subs poi doesn't change much with supers. 100 yds and in just aim and shoot. You'll like the Resonator, very quiet, even with supers.
 

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Fun, extremely versatile, easy on the wallet, Compact, all the free mil brass you want at the ranges, just have to cut and shape. And like someone said a pound goes forever! Oh and did I mention ( IT WILL KILL )
 

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Welcome to the blackout club, this is one of the coolest rounds to play with. I have loaded rounds from 90gr subs up to 220gr. A couple quick tips. Speer 125gr tnt's over 110 or lil gun are a great option for supers, very affordable and hit hard. The 110 tactx is my home defense/pdw load and would work fine for hunting as well. For subs 4227 is my preferred powder.

I would also suggest trying to find a cva scout v2 take down in this caliber, it is a great compliment to the ar and makes for a great truck gun.
 
If you plan on using subsonic, 1680 is your friend. I havent used cfe blk but in subsonic load it is hard to find a powder that has enough gas to operate a semi auto. Trail boss is by far the quiestest loading but it will not operate a gas gun!! Also fast twist barrels good for heavy subsonic bullets arent condusive to accuracy on the lightest supersonic bullets. My buddy has a 300 hamm'r in a 12 twist that shoots really well, but my 3 blkouts dont shoot more than moa.
 
I almost always shoot them suppressed. For deer hunting, I use the Hornady factory 110grn vmax loads. For Subsonic, I've used 180grn 30-30 lrn bullets with H110, 220grn lrn/1680, or cast Missouri bullets 215grn/1680. They all shoot and function well in rifles and a 10.5" pistol. I've played around with the 110grn Hornady bullets and MP300, got almost the accuracy of the Hornady factory load.
 
šŸ˜‚šŸ¤£ Well, this new endeavor isn't starting out so well. So, I wanted to continue to support my LGS and went back to them yesterday and purchased a SIG 'Tango' MSR 1-6x24 optic and a box of PPU ammo (125gr) to get 'er on paper. Got the optic on the rifle, loaded up the magazine, chambered a round and pulled the trigger. "Click"! Dropped the Mag and tried to eject that round and the charging handle wouldn't budge. Seriously? Ended up having to 'mortar' the rifle to get the round out. Thought maybe it was just a 'fluke' and tried again with a different cartridge. Same results the second time. Had to mortar the rifle again to get the round out (oh, and just barely a hint of a primer strike on those 2).
Tried a different approach nextā€¦.dropped a new round directly into the chamber and sent the action into battery and seated the magazine. This time the rifle went "BANG", but did not eject the fired case. Long story shortā€¦.I ended up doing this 3 times and each time had to open the upper, slide the bolt carrier group out, insert a cleaning rod into the muzzle and knock the case out of the chamberā€¦..and it took quite a bit of force to do so. "Houston, we have a problem" šŸ˜(good primer strikes on these).
I stopped messing with it after all that and I'll be taking the rifle back to the LGS from whence it came today as soon as they open.
Here's some pics of the 3 pieces of brass that were actually able to be fired in the rifle. There's some pretty good horizontal striations on all of themā€¦..and it's a little difficult to see, but part of the top of the case head on each piece is actually sheared offā€¦I'm guessing by the extractor? Not having much fun here yet, fellas..šŸ˜‚šŸ¤£ Is the problem the rifle or this particular brand of ammo?šŸ¤”
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šŸ˜‚šŸ¤£ Well, this new endeavor isn't starting out so well. So, I wanted to continue to support my LGS and went back to them yesterday and purchased a SIG 'Tango' MSR 1-6x24 optic and a box of PPU ammo (125gr) to get 'er on paper. Got the optic on the rifle, loaded up the magazine, chambered a round and pulled the trigger. "Click"! Dropped the Mag and tried to eject that round and the charging handle wouldn't budge. Seriously? Ended up having to 'mortar' the rifle to get the round out. Thought maybe it was just a 'fluke' and tried again with a different cartridge. Same results the second time. Had to mortar the rifle again to get the round out (oh, and just barely a hint of a primer strike on those 2).
Tried a different approach nextā€¦.dropped a new round directly into the chamber and sent the action into battery and seated the magazine. This time the rifle went "BANG", but did not eject the fired case. Long story shortā€¦.I ended up doing this 3 times and each time had to open the upper, slide the bolt carrier group out, insert a cleaning rod into the muzzle and knock the case out of the chamberā€¦..and it took quite a bit of force to do so. "Houston, we have a problem" šŸ˜(good primer strikes on these).
I stopped messing with it after all that and I'll be taking the rifle back to the LGS from whence it came today as soon as they open.
Here's some pics of the 3 pieces of brass that were actually able to be fired in the rifle. There's some pretty good horizontal striations on all of themā€¦..and it's a little difficult to see, but part of the top of the case head on each piece is actually sheared offā€¦I'm guessing by the extractor? Not having much fun here yet, fellas..šŸ˜‚šŸ¤£
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That sounds like improperly sized brass to me. I have had that same problem with a 5.56 upper and turned out the neck and shoulder was sized too long, new quality rounds and no more problemsā€¦
 
That sounds like improperly sized brass to me. I have had that same problem with a 5.56 upper and turned out the neck and shoulder was sized too long, new quality rounds and no more problemsā€¦
Hmmmmmm. Well, since this is the first AR I've ever owned I wasn't sure if the problem was the rifle or the ammo. I'm familiar with the platform, but only due to having to carry/qualify with one twice a year at the Sheriffs Office here.
 
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