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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
300/338 Lapua Imp
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<blockquote data-quote="Steve Shelp" data-source="post: 25315" data-attributes="member: 22"><p>Brent,</p><p> Sorry for the delay in responding. FYI: I think all my email problems are solved now.... I hope.</p><p></p><p>On to your questions:</p><p></p><p><strong>I wonder what problems you ran into with the type bedding block I described earlier, the one bedding the barrel you refered to?</strong></p><p>In the late 80's my friend Bob tried the barrel bedding technique you had mentioned when he shot at Williamsport. The only difference was that Bob had bedded the whole barrel channel with (5) screws that were pillar bedded. So the barrel was glassed into the forarm the bottom 180 degrees of its circumference for the full length of the forarm. The rifle used a Six Hall unlimited pattern stock, 1.450" x 30" barrel, Interarms MarkX solid bottom action, scope mounted on the action. The action was 100% free floating, chambered in a 30KK (basically a 308 Baer) that was throated for 190-200gr bullets.</p><p> The first year with that setup Bob kept getting vertical stringing and could never get it tuned out. I forget what the actual agg was for Bob at the end of that season but it wasn't good for all 10 matches.</p><p> Well, Kenny Kleinendorst (the gunsmith that built it) tore the rifle down over the winter and glassed/pillar bedded the action and the first 2 or 3" of the barrel with everything else floating from there forward. The only other change was recrowning the barrel to have a fresh crown. Everything else was the same as the previous year. Again I can't remember Bob's agg at the end of this second year but it was several inches smaller and the vertical went away. That's the biggest factor in my book. The only thing that changed was the bedding and it went from a tendancy for vertical stringing to shooting round groups by floating the barrel. So based on that I wouldn't recommend bedding the barrel only and floting other things to save the weight. </p><p></p><p><strong>I'd like to point that out to my smith when I talk to him next when I tell him I want the full bedding block made like the pic Jay sent me.</strong></p><p>I know Jay and he makes good stuff. Those blocks look like they were well built and would do the trick with minimal weight increase. Blocks are really the safe road to take. But it depends on how important weight is to you also.</p><p></p><p><strong>I wonder if I could get a few things from you all reguarding the Yogi to help me figure out the differences between the dies and the reamers dia? I don't want the FL sized cases to be any looser than necessary but I need to size them small enough so they definatly chamber easily. I'd like to compare notes with the other reommendations I've gotten.</strong></p><p><strong> I should have asked Dave Tooley while I had him on the phone but didn't think of it at the time. He definatly will not give anyone specific dimentions on his reamers, but the difference in base diameter is all I need to design one of my own if I need to. I'll call him in the morning and see what he recommends the difference to be between the two reamers.</strong></p><p><strong> Anyway, can you guys with the Yogi's and the Wolf's tell me what the base dia. is on a piece of your brass that has been fired and one that has been sized?</strong></p><p></p><p>I'll try when I get home from work. Don't know if I have a fired case that hasn't been sized yet though to compare to.</p><p></p><p><strong>I'd like to get a collective measurement from you guys with different lots of brass of the base dia. just above the extractor groove and one from the maximum dia. near the base if it happens to be larger? </strong></p><p><strong> I'm courious to know the base dia. of each of your sizing dies to get an idea of the springback if there's any, could you provide this as well?</strong></p><p> </p><p> I'll try but I only have calipers to measure inside diamters. And I'm measuring a tapered hole so I'll give it my best shot.</p><p></p><p><strong>Man this seems like work getting edjucated on all these little details, I had no idea it was going to involve this much.</strong> </p><p></p><p>Been there done that. That's why I always say find a known LR smith that you get along with and trust. Any decent smith can build a barreled action parrallel and perpendicular. That's the easy part. But not all smiths have dealt with the cases/powder/bullets of the bigger chamberings most LR shooters deal with and this can save you a lot of headaches in the long run if the smith you use has first hand knowledge. That's one of the reason I use Dave for my services, I shoot next to him at almost every match so I know he "knows the game" sort of speaking. Plus I know he;s done a lot of experiementing with LR stuff outsdie of sompetition. PLUS.... he likes a beer or 2 afterward and he's got a nice Golden Retriever that loves ear scratches and bisquits when I go to his shop. : )</p><p> But I know your location in Alaska puts a crimp in that way of thinking so I'll help the best I can.</p><p></p><p>Steve</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Steve Shelp, post: 25315, member: 22"] Brent, Sorry for the delay in responding. FYI: I think all my email problems are solved now.... I hope. On to your questions: [B]I wonder what problems you ran into with the type bedding block I described earlier, the one bedding the barrel you refered to?[/B] In the late 80's my friend Bob tried the barrel bedding technique you had mentioned when he shot at Williamsport. The only difference was that Bob had bedded the whole barrel channel with (5) screws that were pillar bedded. So the barrel was glassed into the forarm the bottom 180 degrees of its circumference for the full length of the forarm. The rifle used a Six Hall unlimited pattern stock, 1.450" x 30" barrel, Interarms MarkX solid bottom action, scope mounted on the action. The action was 100% free floating, chambered in a 30KK (basically a 308 Baer) that was throated for 190-200gr bullets. The first year with that setup Bob kept getting vertical stringing and could never get it tuned out. I forget what the actual agg was for Bob at the end of that season but it wasn't good for all 10 matches. Well, Kenny Kleinendorst (the gunsmith that built it) tore the rifle down over the winter and glassed/pillar bedded the action and the first 2 or 3" of the barrel with everything else floating from there forward. The only other change was recrowning the barrel to have a fresh crown. Everything else was the same as the previous year. Again I can't remember Bob's agg at the end of this second year but it was several inches smaller and the vertical went away. That's the biggest factor in my book. The only thing that changed was the bedding and it went from a tendancy for vertical stringing to shooting round groups by floating the barrel. So based on that I wouldn't recommend bedding the barrel only and floting other things to save the weight. [B]I'd like to point that out to my smith when I talk to him next when I tell him I want the full bedding block made like the pic Jay sent me.[/B] I know Jay and he makes good stuff. Those blocks look like they were well built and would do the trick with minimal weight increase. Blocks are really the safe road to take. But it depends on how important weight is to you also. [B]I wonder if I could get a few things from you all reguarding the Yogi to help me figure out the differences between the dies and the reamers dia? I don't want the FL sized cases to be any looser than necessary but I need to size them small enough so they definatly chamber easily. I'd like to compare notes with the other reommendations I've gotten. I should have asked Dave Tooley while I had him on the phone but didn't think of it at the time. He definatly will not give anyone specific dimentions on his reamers, but the difference in base diameter is all I need to design one of my own if I need to. I'll call him in the morning and see what he recommends the difference to be between the two reamers. Anyway, can you guys with the Yogi's and the Wolf's tell me what the base dia. is on a piece of your brass that has been fired and one that has been sized?[/B] I'll try when I get home from work. Don't know if I have a fired case that hasn't been sized yet though to compare to. [B]I'd like to get a collective measurement from you guys with different lots of brass of the base dia. just above the extractor groove and one from the maximum dia. near the base if it happens to be larger? I'm courious to know the base dia. of each of your sizing dies to get an idea of the springback if there's any, could you provide this as well?[/B] I'll try but I only have calipers to measure inside diamters. And I'm measuring a tapered hole so I'll give it my best shot. [B]Man this seems like work getting edjucated on all these little details, I had no idea it was going to involve this much.[/B] Been there done that. That's why I always say find a known LR smith that you get along with and trust. Any decent smith can build a barreled action parrallel and perpendicular. That's the easy part. But not all smiths have dealt with the cases/powder/bullets of the bigger chamberings most LR shooters deal with and this can save you a lot of headaches in the long run if the smith you use has first hand knowledge. That's one of the reason I use Dave for my services, I shoot next to him at almost every match so I know he "knows the game" sort of speaking. Plus I know he;s done a lot of experiementing with LR stuff outsdie of sompetition. PLUS.... he likes a beer or 2 afterward and he's got a nice Golden Retriever that loves ear scratches and bisquits when I go to his shop. : ) But I know your location in Alaska puts a crimp in that way of thinking so I'll help the best I can. Steve [/QUOTE]
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