270 win 150 partition velocities

Goobie270

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
65
So I'm reloading a 270win with 150 gr nosler partitions, with h4831, and federal 210 large rifle primers. The nosler manual says a max of 55 grains with that powder to get 2905fps with a 24 inch barrel, But I only get a velocity of 2770 fps with that listing. I've heard of tons of people going and using 57-58 grains of h4831 to get to 2900 fps but that we'll over max. Just wondering why my velocity is so much slower that the book says it should be.
 
So I'm reloading a 270win with 150 gr nosler partitions, with h4831, and federal 210 large rifle primers. The nosler manual says a max of 55 grains with that powder to get 2905fps with a 24 inch barrel, But I only get a velocity of 2770 fps with that listing. I've heard of tons of people going and using 57-58 grains of h4831 to get to 2900 fps but that we'll over max. Just wondering why my velocity is so much slower that the book says it should be.
According to my load data, and load book, the max load with 4831 is 57.5gr, in my Dad's 22" 270, he got 2848fps with 57gr H4831. The only difference to your load is we used WLR primers.
I no longer use that powder, it just doesn't stay consistent in anything I ever used it in.
I switched to RE22 in the 270, much better consistency for us.

Cheers.
gun)
 
My friend recently acquired a 270. He is currently using factory ammo but intends to load for it eventually. So I have been looking at load data for this cartridge.

Have you looked at Alliant's reloading page?

RL-23 is listed at 2953 fps and RL-26 listed at 3022 fps with the 150 gr partition! Unfortunately they don't list the barrel length.
 
According to my load data, and load book, the max load with 4831 is 57.5gr, in my Dad's 22" 270, he got 2848fps with 57gr H4831. The only difference to your load is we used WLR primers.
I no longer use that powder, it just doesn't stay consistent in anything I ever used it in.
I switched to RE22 in the 270, much better consistency for us.

Cheers.
gun)

Ok thanks,
Really?, what load book is those listings for, because my nosler 6 and 8th editions say 55.0 is my max.
 
Ok thanks,
Really?, what load book is those listings for, because my nosler 6 and 8th editions say 55.0 is my max.


There are some books that have that max, Bob Hagel's is one and possibly an early Speer. Original H4831 may have been a bit slower than current production.55g is probably closer to reality now.

I had a RL22 load that was close to 3000fps with the 150NPT. 4000MR is supposed to be good also.

Keep in mind most factory 130g ammo doesn't break 3000fps.

As far as your velocity it could be that your chronograph was reading low, the rifle could have a slow barrel, etc. 130fps low isn't that big of a deal.
 
There are some books that have that max, Bob Hagel's is one and possibly an early Speer. Original H4831 may have been a bit slower than current production.55g is probably closer to reality now.

I had a RL22 load that was close to 3000fps with the 150NPT. 4000MR is supposed to be good also.

Keep in mind most factory 130g ammo doesn't break 3000fps.

As far as your velocity it could be that your chronograph was reading low, the rifle could have a slow barrel, etc. 130fps low isn't that big of a deal.

Ok so what the deal to use the current manuals or the older ones?, I'm wondering if it's safe still to use older manuals or stick with the new one, and safe to go over 55 grains, I'd like to have a muzzle velocity of around 2850
 
Ok so what the deal to use the current manuals or the older ones?, I'm wondering if it's safe still to use older manuals or stick with the new one, and safe to go over 55 grains, I'd like to have a muzzle velocity of around 2850


All loads should be reduced and then worked up to find the maximum in a particular rifle. All rifles are a little different and some are quite a bit different. Some may max out past the book, some may max out before the book max is reached.

Loading manuals are also like that, some of them had some pretty hot loads. H4831 was originally war surplus government powder, the current production is not quite the same. The surplus powder has been gone for quite a while. Bob Hagel's book(a good book by the way) came out in 1978 and at that time the newer production powder was out but the loads listed were probably for the surplus powder. The Speer #9 had some hot ones also but it was from 1974. Current data usually comes from companies that use modern pressure sensing equipment also, the actual pressure is known.

I had one M70 that maxed out around 53g OF H4831 with the 150NPT. And it was like that with all powders and bullets. Drop one in with 57g and it would have been a problem. It also had a pretty tight chamber, I had to cut the bottom off my die so it would resize the brass enough to fit back in.

My Buddy just bought a really nice M700 270win. It is slow, that's the way it is. Even with max loads it is 200fps slower than what it "should" be.
 
My load data comes from both ADI (manufacturer of most Hodgdon powders) and the Speer #13 manual, which is not that old at all.
The newer short cut version has the same data, so it is safe to use older manuals.
I worked at the plant and can assure you that the powder is the same.

In my dad's rifle, I have never been able to get book velocities with any bullet weight.
It only gets used on large deer, so the one load does it all in that rifle.

Cheers.
gun)
 
Ok so what the deal to use the current manuals or the older ones?, I'm wondering if it's safe still to use older manuals or stick with the new one, and safe to go over 55 grains, I'd like to have a muzzle velocity of around 2850

If manuals were safe when they were published, why would they be unsafe now?

I have a 1950 NRA Handloader's Handbook that has what would be over-max loads by current standards. If loads in that book were safe in 1950, why would they not be safe now.

I have a load from a 1975 edition of Handloader magazine that I use for my 7MM Rem Mag. It would be more than a few gains over max by today's standards. I've used it for 25 years. It's a proven one-shot elk killer.

While I do own a few manuals, I reach for Ken Waters' Pet Loads when I want real world (as opposed to laboratory) info. Who hunts in a laboratory?

If I were to have a friend who hand loads or were I to read a credible post from a rationale poster who has used a specific load with great success, I give that more weight than a loading manual.

Here's what I do: my interest is piqued by a certain load that I think will work in one of my rifles. I'll buy components and put together a load about 10% max load. I'll start from there and work up until I reach best accuracy. After each shot fired, I'll closely examine cases for indicators of excessive pressure.
 
So I just loaded and shot a 55.5 which is my book max, and shot a 56 and 57 grains of powder and all 3 velocities were within 20 fps, and my chrony is working properly. I've heard that a rifle will max out for speeds sometimes. So I guess I there's no point to loading over box max..
 
So I just loaded and shot a 55.5 which is my book max, and shot a 56 and 57 grains of powder and all 3 velocities were within 20 fps, and my chrony is working properly. I've heard that a rifle will max out for speeds sometimes. So I guess I there's no point to loading over box max..
The theory is this, if each increase in powder is a uniform amount, such as you discovered, then all is well, if a velocity suddenly jumps 200fps, which does happen, then pressure has risen significantly.
Also, if everything tracks well, then velocities reduce as powder is increased, then you have gone too far.
The brass case, not the primer, will often tell you when max has been reached, stciky extraction, ejector marks and scuffing of the case head are all signs that pressure is excessive, regardless whether the primer looks normal or not.

Cheers.
gun)
 
The theory is this, if each increase in powder is a uniform amount, such as you discovered, then all is well, if a velocity suddenly jumps 200fps, which does happen, then pressure has risen significantly.
Also, if everything tracks well, then velocities reduce as powder is increased, then you have gone too far.
The brass case, not the primer, will often tell you when max has been reached, stciky extraction, ejector marks and scuffing of the case head are all signs that pressure is excessive, regardless whether the primer looks normal or not.

Cheers.
gun)

Ok yeah so here is how it went
55.5 gr -- 2769
56.0 gr -- 2775
57.0 gr -- 2780

And all brass looked the same with no pressure signs.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 9 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top