260 Rem. Multiple Shot Problems

[HuntnID]

Hi, I've been lurking, reading, and learning for a long time. I've only posted a couple other times. Recently I began putting together a Savage 110 in .260 Rem. with a Pac-Nor 28" barrel Sendero contour. It has the Bell and Carlson Duramaxx stock and has not been bedded. My first couple trips out to the range were successful while also giving me some headaches. So here is my first headache:
I was using factory ammo to break the barrel in because I was unable to find 260 brass and didn't wan't to start off by resizing. I was breaking the barrel in by shooting one shot and cleaning in it. It was grouping right around an inch. I was very happy with that. I did this for the first 12 shots. I then switched to shooting three and cleaning. The groups opened up dramatically, 3-4 inches. I was not frustrated at first, assuming that they were going to get better with break in, but after a total of 28 shots like this, the groups were still the same. Is this a problem that bedding would solve, or should I continue the break in. The shots were not in rapid succession.

Also, I have read that a great benefit of a long action in short action caliber is the flexibility in seating depth. Knowing this, I wanted to try some 130 Berger VLDs. Does anybody have pet loads for these? I have about 6 lbs of IMR 4350 for other guns so if anybody has a pet load with this powder that would be great too.

 

[Chas1]

I know you said the 3 shoots were not in rapid succession...how much time between shots? It may be that 1 shot then 1 cleaning was only removing just enough copper fouling so the next shot was ok but as soon as it's a three shot string it rears it's ugly head. IMHO-make sure all the copper fouling has been removed before each 3 shot string. I'm sure others will offer some good insight.

 

[HuntnID]

It was probably a minute between shots.

 

[Coyboy]

were you "just cleaning" or removing ALL the copper between each shot?

What solvent are you using


If you have been removing ALL the copper between shots, your barrel is most likly cleaning pretty easy now, meaning that the copper fouling is minimal and the barrel is broke in for the most part.

Were you cleaning after every 3 rounds then shooting another group. If so you would not see much consistancy.

Clean all the copper out before your next range sesion with a good cleaner. Shoot 2 fouling rounds off the target, then start shooting groups don't clean between groups just keep shooting and you should see the barrels potential.

Make sure your action screws are tight, and bedding the action will help.

 

[HuntnID]

I feel that I was removing most of the copper. I was using Montana Copper Solvent. Maybe I was not removing all of it. I will do a better job at cleaning it next time I am at the range. It still seems to be fouling fairly easy. Would it hurt anything to break it in with another fifteen shots or so?

 

[Coyboy]

Read this, and the following discusion.

Custom Barrel Care At 17X

 

[loaders_loft]

pacnor sent me a small bottle of witches brew for break in, which I used as instructed on their breakin sheet that was also provided. Follow the break in procedure and do it right. don't get worried about groups with factory ammo.

If you complete the break in andtrouble shoot all the stuff already mentioned, then contact pacnor, they are very good folks there. I'm sure they will take care of you.

the duramax stock has an aluminum bedding block right? that should be all you need for bedding.

if you're limited to factory ammo, try some match ammo (link below) - hopefully you got a 1:8 twist?? if its 1:9 you will need 130gr or less bullets.

.260 Match Ammo Comparison Test

 

[Chas1]

.260 match ammo comparison test...good read. Thanks for sharing.

 

[300R]

I would have the rifle bedded,i follow the brake in process on the lilja website i use butch's and sweets and it works excellent

 

[loaders_loft]

try loosening the action screws, then snugging up the front screw, then snug the rear, then torque the front then torque the rear.

ask for the torque value in the gunsmithing forum, (I suspect 65 inLbs, double check that).

 

[azsugarbear]

Aghhhhhhhhh! Another lurker! Common HuntnID, get naked and get in the deep end of the pool. Seriously - welcome to LRH.

Another thing to check on (after making sure all carbon & copper are removed from the barrel) would be the screws on your base and rings. If not properly tightened, repeated pounding with each shot during break-in might have loosened something up without you noticing. Probably not the case, but don't take it for granted.

 

[loaders_loft]

good point, it happened to me today for the first time after about 10 shots. My scope slid forward in the rings, even though I thought they were plenty tight. This was a new mount, so I'll have to get a real torque wrench on there, and some blue loctite between the base & action, and the rings & scope.

by the way, no ordinary medium caliber gun, its a 35 whelen, shooting 225 gr nosler's at 2760fps...

 

[Chas1]

loaders_loft, when you say some blue loctite between the base & action, and the rings & scope. do you mean just that...loctite goes between action and base and then are you putting a dab on the inside of the ring. If so how do you get it apart if you want to changes the base or rings or scope?

 

[Joaquin B]

Clean the scope-mount holes in your rifle's action- as well as the mount screws with acetone, MEK or alcohol to degrease them. Then, take a toothpick, add some blue loctite to it and apply the loctite from the toothpick to the action hole threads. Now add one drop of blue loctite to each of the mount screws and wipe away the excess. One you have done this, attach the mounts to the action and tighten the mounts. The loctite takes about an hour to become gummy and prevent the mount screws from vibrating loose. Do not add loctite to the scope ring screws - not neede.

Best of luck