20" Barrel , .308 Winchester, Heavy Bullet Load Development

[tim_w]

Depending on the cases variation in brass thickness you may not be able to get straight loaded rounds. I have seen where even when FL sized you still end up with banana cases after firing.

Have you checked or are ablentoncheck case and loaded round runout? If you find you get cases with a specific curve you could try marking the cases so the curve has a specific orientation to the chamber as you chamber them. Keep g every case that way.

Honest if the cases are the issue rather than trying to polish a turd I would chuck them or use them some other way and start with some good brass....lapua and then do the minimal prep they need. That way you take that variable out of play.

I'm with others for the 308 the 180 185s are all that's needed. But with a 10twist you should be gtg with 200s from a stability stand point.

 

[pushcoguy]

Tim,

I do not have a way of checking brass thickness or case/load runout. I have been eyeballing some tools though. I agree with you about the need for premium brass. I haven't been able to go that route just yet, though. In fact, I have never loaded anything except .204 with virgin brass.

I have been hearing Lapua, Norma, and recently I have been hearing Nosler is putting out pretty good brass. I have a question to you guys, since you've got more experience at distance, for the most part. / I understand that any improvement (reducing variables in the load), such as brass, is going to generally improve accuracy at all ranges. At what range can you really tell a difference with premium brass though? I mean, is this something you can see at 100, or do you need to shoot at 500 yards to see the benefit(s)?

 

[kweidner]

Tim,
Honestly brass consistency is everything. I have a sub 800yard FTR load that I use in short barrel .308's for competition utilizing RE-17 and berger 230 grain. Look I did this just to show people it could be done. The 230 is a wind bucking beast even at low mortar like velocities. There is no way I would even attempt this with sub-par brass. Now to which manufacture is best? That is personal preference and any of the three you mentioned will get there. My personal preference is lapua. It's just what I use. I anneal between every firing and my 230grain load will absolutely level a hog. I live in hog country and have used this load for killing them too. Get you a box of good brass, take care of it and you will see it will pay for itself in accuracy as well as life. There are many pieces I use that have had over 20 reloading cycles. As long as the primer pockets stay tight it's good to go. Sub par brass you might get 5 loading cycles. twice the cost is worth it for 4 times the number of reloads.

 

[kweidner]

" really tell a difference with premium brass though? I mean, is this something you can see at 100, or do you need to shoot at 500 yards to see the benefit(s)?[/QUOTE]


I can tell as it exits the barrel in lower ES and SD. Consistent velocity leads to better accuracy at all distances in my experience.

 

[Canhunter35]

When you get lapua brass it will shock you how everything works better. Tighter velocity, tighter groups

 

[MontanaMarine]

I'm still loading the 208 Amax (no moly) in a 20.5" 308. 48.0 gr Reloder 17, in milsurp brass, OAL 3.10". Muzzle velocity is 2580 fps per the Magnetospeed chrono.

It is a single-load round in the Rem 700.

 

[MudRunner2005]

When you get lapua brass it will shock you how everything works better. Tighter velocity, tighter groups

This is the truth. Been shooting Lapua brass for my .308 since 2012. Made for very easy load work.

 

[pushcoguy]

Thanks for the info. Well, it looks like I will be buying some better brass, when I can afford to do so... it may be a while.