1000 yd shooting

1eye

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Feb 8, 2009
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138
Location
Iowa
Well this is the problem I have encountered shooting my .338 Edge. Shooting at 300 yds the gun will print dead center the futher out, 500,600, 700, 800, 900, 1000 yard it will keep printing futher right the farther out I shoot, at 1000 yards its 12 inches to the right of center. This is under a no wind condition , has anyone had this happen or no what might be going on at these ranges, maybe bullet rotation !
 
Have only shot 1000 yards twice in my life with my 30/06 Springfield Match Rifle and gladly to say held the 10 ring just out from the X ring for me was very happy.
 
My guess is you could encounter up to 3/4 moa of spin drift, but closer to .5 moa I would think. So I would be looking for the canted scope as before mentioned.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the reply,s . Iam using a NF 5.5 x 22 NP R-1, 96 clicks at 1000 yds.
I can see the canted reticle, not sure how you could really get it perfect, you would have to find a way to level the gun and then level the scope ( not a good surface to level off of ) you might get a large peice of white paper and use a 6 foot level to make a vertical line , set it at 100yds and go from their and set the scope to the line. Spin drift is a real possibility is their a formula for such a thing ?

Thanks
 
First get a level on you rail mount or scope tube.

Then use a plum bob line at 100 yards transfered with a straight edge to secured cardboard at least 30" tall.

mark a small spot at the bottom. Shoot at this spot. Then dial up 20 moa and shoot at the first point of aim once more. The bulet should hit 20.94" above the first hit and should be on the line. Remember to check the level on your rail before each shot. If the second hit is left or right, loosen the rings and rotate a small amount and retest. A light pencil mark on the scope tube at the parting line of your lower ring half will serve as a referance point and keep you from getting lost.

Most current programs have a spin drift correction you can use.

Jeff
 
Yep, combination of spin drift and scope cant.

Even with something like the wheeler engineering scope leveling kit using a bubble level on each the rifle and scope it's easy to be a couple of degrees off.

Use the plum bob method described above.

Just a degree or two at 1000yds can account for a large error.

Once you get the scope perfectly leveled/plum the use of a single drop of super glue or blue locktite on each mount before tightening will hold it perfectly in place.

Often, if you don't do that once you start torquing down the mounts the scope will roll slightly left or right.
 
What I did on my long gun's was to pull the bolt out of the action then found A piece of steel about A foot long that is perfectly strait, I lay that on the back of the action where it is machined for the bolt race, which is as close to square to the bore as I know how to get, then I use my other hand and level the unit with my laser level. I clamp gun in this position and then mount the scope using same laser level on top turret. I have tried using the lower half of the scope ring's but have found them to be off by quite A bit. I did this on both my 30-378 Wby and my 300 Ultra Mag and I'm shooting 6"to 12" group's with sand bag's from my Sidekick hood, or my back pack laying on the ground as if I were taking A hunting shot at 1000 yds. I live in the Cascade mtn's and have my own range out back of the house so I get to practice almost every day. Give this A try, hope it help's. Good shootin to ya....Jerry
 
If you mount a level that clamps onto your scope it is easy to correct. Simply install the level with what appears true visually. Then do what Broz said and get a piece of cardboard with a line on it and set it exactly plumb to the earth at 100 yards. Make sure the scope level is reading exactly level during this process. I prefer to put the gun in a vice of some sort, and watch through the scope as I dial up 20moa or more. You can shoot, but the guns accuracy can give you some misreadings depending on how accurate it is. If you choose to put the gun in a vice and dial then you will need to start at the top of the line obviously. When you dial up, the crosshairs should end up exactly on the line. If they are to the left rotate the scope level clockwise, or counterclockwise if the crosshairs are to the right. It won't take much, and you can put a pencil mark on the ring and scope tube to see how much it is moving. I actually like to "cheat" and have my crosshairs a little to the right of the line to correct for some spin drift. My gun has about 1/2-3/4moa spin drift at 1000 yards. So on my setup, my crosshairs will end up about 1/2" to the right of the line at the 100yrd target when I dial 22 moa. Then at the ranges I shoot at, I never have to worry about spin drift.

Once this is done that scope mounted level will be set for that scope. You can take the scope off or transfer it to another gun. You can then set the scope in the rings for your comfort, so when you shoulder or get behind the gun in prone position the level reads true.

aroshtr
 
Guy's, Used your method to double check one of my scope's today, Thanks for teaching an old dog A new trick!!! That's one heck of A fine tuning procedure that work's! Now I get to start working my way through the other 41 rifle's. That is exactly why I like and enjoy this site!!! THANKS AGAIN for your knowledge...Jerry
 
Thanks for all the suggestions , scope cant and spin drift. Yesterday I set the gun up on the bench with the levels and a plunb line at 100 yards, the problem is keeping the gun level and not moving while clicking up to check alinement , this will work when I make some sort of fixture to hold the gun solid , impossible without a vise of some sort. Working on something today to hold gun solid, when I figure it out I am going to test shots with the scope canted to the right and left to see how much it really moves the bullet at 500 to 1000 yds.

Thanks again....
 
Thanks for all the suggestions , scope cant and spin drift. Yesterday I set the gun up on the bench with the levels and a plunb line at 100 yards, the problem is keeping the gun level and not moving while clicking up to check alinement , this will work when I make some sort of fixture to hold the gun solid , impossible without a vise of some sort. Working on something today to hold gun solid, when I figure it out I am going to test shots with the scope canted to the right and left to see how much it really moves the bullet at 500 to 1000 yds.

Thanks again....
You don't need to try to click up and check it.

If the rifle and scope are properly aligned and level the plum line will be perfectly verticle and in alignment with the center cross hair.

Unless the scope is busted that will not change when you dail up/down.
 
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