Vairog Brass

New Starline and Hornady available here for less than .60 each.? Packaged by the 100.

Shipping is what hurts that place and is the downfall of ordering online…….most places have upped their "free shipping" to a minimum of $150 or more. The once fired brass that he ordered is like $25 a bag of 100 and I've ordered from the place before they always throw a few extra in the bags
 
I'm not a huge fan of Starline. I had some that was ok but just not great. We'll see how the Vairog does. It should be here tomorrow and I'll start playing with it. I just annealed some 7-08 Winchester that has been pretty good.
 
Well I recieved the Vairog 7mm-08 brass. I ordered 500 of them(I thought I had ordered 600 but I was mistaken). It looks nice...but I weighed 100 of them just to see how consistent they were and I am not super excited about what I found. There is about a 5.8 grain difference between the heaviest and the lightest. Heaviest being 193.2 grains and the lightest being 187.4 with one odd case being 186.6 grains. I weighed some Lapua I had and they are all within about .6 gn and most were within .3. I also weighed some Winchester I have a bunch of and it was all within about 2.5 grains. For what it's worth probably should have went with the Starline. LOL
 
5.8 gr variance on a case that weighs 190 gr is right at 3% -- But brass is much much heavier than powder, around 10 fold, so the powder capacity variation is more like 0.3% Lets say a ball park 7-08 load has 40 grains of powder. 40 x .003 = 0.12 gr. You think that much variation in powder will matter in an AR-10?

I've had lots of Lapua brass have several (3-5) gr variation too. I read somewhere that most of the variation in weight is in the base -- the extraction groove. So actual case capacity is less related to weight that I used to think.

In summary -- proof is in the shooting. Anneal that used brass, clean it up good and FL resize and tell us how it shoots. I am mostly a bolt gun shooter, so I could not tell you how to really reload for a AR-10 and tell if the brass is the problem in an accuracy matter. Seems to me the inherent reduction in accuracy with the autoloader makes quibbling about brass less of an issue -- but maybe some of you can get to 0.5 MOA with your guns???

Do I KNOW that some brass is better than others. Oh heck yes. But weight variation seems to dimm in terms of the way to check that. I think crappy brass has poor quality control of the brass metal itself and poor quality control of neck thickness. If you have variation of either, no amount of annealing with even the very best annealer will fix the issue. Neck turning is just a pain -- and with an autoloader, you shoot more by definition. Not an option. And if there is variation in the brass itself, I mean the composition of the metal, you obviously cannot fix that. That is why we discuss brass being "too hard" or "too soft" -- but what if a crappy manufacturer has hard and soft all mixed in?
 
5.8 gr variance on a case that weighs 190 gr is right at 3% -- But brass is much much heavier than powder, around 10 fold, so the powder capacity variation is more like 0.3% Lets say a ball park 7-08 load has 40 grains of powder. 40 x .003 = 0.12 gr. You think that much variation in powder will matter in an AR-10?

I've had lots of Lapua brass have several (3-5) gr variation too. I read somewhere that most of the variation in weight is in the base -- the extraction groove. So actual case capacity is less related to weight that I used to think.

In summary -- proof is in the shooting. Anneal that used brass, clean it up good and FL resize and tell us how it shoots. I am mostly a bolt gun shooter, so I could not tell you how to really reload for a AR-10 and tell if the brass is the problem in an accuracy matter. Seems to me the inherent reduction in accuracy with the autoloader makes quibbling about brass less of an issue -- but maybe some of you can get to 0.5 MOA with your guns???

Do I KNOW that some brass is better than others. Oh heck yes. But weight variation seems to dimm in terms of the way to check that. I think crappy brass has poor quality control of the brass metal itself and poor quality control of neck thickness. If you have variation of either, no amount of annealing with even the very best annealer will fix the issue. Neck turning is just a pain -- and with an autoloader, you shoot more by definition. Not an option. And if there is variation in the brass itself, I mean the composition of the metal, you obviously cannot fix that. That is why we discuss brass being "too hard" or "too soft" -- but what if a crappy manufacturer has hard and soft all mixed in?
I'm the one who would be loading for an AR10. And your right ARs are less accurate than bolt guns but there are things that can be done to mitigate those issues. Use quality parts and lowers with tensioner screws between upper and lower to take up any movement using a true free float hand guard and using a good quality barrel and a good smooth trigger and building a load that shoots well through that weapon. All that being said I also have a custom built 243 win I can consistently shoot sub moa groups and on a good day when I do what I'm supposed to do I can squeeze out .5moa groups. Nothing to gauck at with a good quality bolt gun but isn't to shabby in an AR platform
 

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