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Is Remington Peters brass really that bad?

Not sure about more recent lots, but I purchased 500 R-P in 25-06 just before Covid, and with a load using 85 grain NBT and 60 grains of MRP, they are producing 0.6-0.7" groups at 200 yards in my rifle. I have several older R-P brass in 243, 270, 308 and 30-06, and after a little load development, they group as well as some much more expensive brass. If I conducted a blind study, most people would never know the difference in the groups they fired. Especially in the field.

It wasn't my choice for BR brass, but I have hand selected and prepped various bulk factory brass and shot many very tiny groups.
 
MarkInPA said:
Do you recall how much you may have culled? Particularly the Remington's? I have hand selected and prepped the remaining Remington brass but, I am only keeping 1/3 of what I started with.
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These were brass from years ago and not current, and if my old memory serves, I only rejected maybe 10-15% for various reasons. Some brands were a little less. These were for BR shooting and extreme varmint shooting, but as the years went by, we learned that unless the brass was way off in some quality and variations, it had far lesser impacts on accuracy and performance than other factors.
 
I can say with confidence that no other brand of brass compares to R-P brass in 375H&H for turning it into lots of other cases, ie, 300/340 Bee, 375 Bee, 7STW, 6.5STW & 416RM. I also use it exclusively to make 264WM brass from 7RM cases because other brands have not worked in my custom chambers as well.
I have so many 375H&H headstamped cases I have to look closely so that I don't use the wrong calibre by accident.
Of course there are other brands that I cherish for their toughness, notably Winchester 'w-w super' cases and Lapua. Norma is great if you know it's limitations regarding pressure.

Cheers.
 
I just got done going through the same process with 100 pieces of Norma .30-06 brass. I only culled 9 pieces. What a difference! My Lapua .308 Winchester brass was just delivered this morning. We'll see how well this goes.

No more Remington Peters brass for me. Maybe for pistol and revolvers but, I would probably purchase Starline if I had the option.
 
Remington brass works fine for the shooting I do. It's all I have for my 260, when I started with this cartridge no one local had any brass. While talking to a friend he mentioned he has several hundred pieces left over from the late 90's along with dies and bullets. I'm still shooting that brass, it's annealed after every firing and trimmed when needed. Over the years I've tossed a few pieces for loose primer pockets. I'm not a long range competitor, only hunt and plink with this rifle out to 300 yards. Even with my junk brass it'll stay 1/2-3/4 moa at 300 yards with my hunting bullets.
 
justinp61 said:
Remington brass works fine for the shooting I do. It's all I have for my 260, when I started with this cartridge no one local had any brass. While talking to a friend he mentioned he has several hundred pieces left over from the late 90's along with dies and bullets. I'm still shooting that brass, it's annealed after every firing and trimmed when needed. Over the years I've tossed a few pieces for loose primer pockets. I'm not a long range competitor, only hunt and plink with this rifle out to 300 yards. Even with my junk brass it'll stay 1/2-3/4 moa at 300 yards with my hunting bullets.
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I assume that you are talking about the .260 Remington. Can't you simply start with either .308 Winchester or 7mm-08 brass and neck it down to 6.5 mm? I have an 8mm-06. Nobody makes brass for this cartridge that I am aware of. I simply take .30-06 brass and neck it up to .323". I simply run my .30-06 cases through my 8mm-06 dies.
 
So maybe I'll ask here. What do you do with your warm out brass. Do you take it to a metal shop and get money for it as salvage brass/copper or just throw it away or melt it down if you have the means to or what. Just courious?
 

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