• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Last light scopes

Kahles makes a great scope. I've got a Schmidt and Bender fixed 8X56 somewhere in the back of my safe and it does very well in low light. The only issue I have with it is the red dot is pretty big. I shot a big doe several years ago with it at 238 yards and the dot covered up most of the kill zone. You're right...... That Accupoint is a very small dot and just the right size even at longer distances.
A friend has a Meopta with the same problem. The reticle is perfect but the red dot in the center is there whether illuminated or not and it is huge. It blocks the shoulder and pocket area completely out on a deer at 250-300 yards. There is no way to be precise with that scope at distance. I've often wondered if Meopta would change the reticle just never got around to asking
 
Anyone who did a low light test knows higher magnification helps see things longer in low light.
Agreed. I'm no scientist on exit pupil however, I do know first hand that there is a point when higher mag trumps exit pupil. There's been many a night when at the tail end of legal shooting time, I zoom from 2.5 to 10. I realize my exit pupil is much higher on 3 but if I can't see my target I'm done. I've zoomed as high as 16 in order to see my target and still make an ethical shot whereas at 3 it wasn't possible. This where the Victory 4.8-35X60mm really shines.
 
A friend has a Meopta with the same problem. The reticle is perfect but the red dot in the center is there whether illuminated or not and it is huge. It blocks the shoulder and pocket area completely out on a deer at 250-300 yards. There is no way to be precise with that scope at distance. I've often wondered if Meopta would change the reticle just never got around to asking
Mine is almost not visible at all. I wouldn't even know it is there if I didn't know it is there. The eight intensity settings are also awesome. Bright outside you need it on bright to see it. Dark out at dusk and you can dial it down to where it is still almost invisible. Works the same in my wife's Z8i Swaro.
 
I've been looking at some light weight cross hairs with red dots. I'm using this for a light deer hunting rig with low rings for under 250 yards and won't be dialing.
I have a leupold vx3 with fire dot on a different rifle and happy with it but I see the night force shv 3-10x42 has a illuminated reticle although it's about 7 oz heavier.
Anyone have experience with this night force model? Is this a slight upgrade from the vx3 as far as glass goes and dependability?
I figured I'd piggy back on this thread since it's already going. 😉 thanks
 
Mine is almost not visible at all. I wouldn't even know it is there if I didn't know it is there. The eight intensity settings are also awesome. Bright outside you need it on bright to see it. Dark out at dusk and you can dial it down to where it is still almost invisible. Works the same in my wife's Z8i Swaro.
I imagine this particular Meopta he's using was just one of their reticle options when he bought that scope. The other Meopta scopes I've looked through don't have that exact reticle.
 
I don't have enough fingers to type up the last 4 years of this quest of mine to find the absolute best low light scope. Between taking out loans and selling and buying, I've literally spend tens of thousands trying to find the best.
Everything from the mid grade stuff to the highest of highest. I did what Ilya Koshkin does. Built a mount to hold multiple scopes on a tripod and look through them all from one hour before sunset to 1 hour after sunset…as well as sunrise. Into and away from the sun.
This quest ended this year.
Here are some things I can tell you.
1. Manufacturers will lie, deceive, manipulate their numbers. Light transmission, twilight factor, etc.. where and how they measure it, through which lens and through how many lenses etc.
2. I can also tell you that resolution trumps's light transmission. This is where I think most should focus on. I have optics that physically look brighter, but is hard to distinguish what you're looking at compared to optics that don't look as bright, but they resolve so much better that you can see what you're trying to see.
3. Optics with extremely high light transmission generally do horrible with glare or flare, depending on who you talk to on the definition.

So. From the mid grade, I've owned:
Mark 5HD, Trijicon HX, Tenmile, Zeiss V4 and V6, Tract, Leupold VX5 and 6hds, Leica Amplus, Nightforce NX8, Swaro Z6, Maven, Sightron, Steiner T6Xi and HX, Vortex and everything in between.

From the high end, I've owned:
Minox ZP, S&B Ultra Birght, S&B Polar, Leica Magnus in all their mag ranges, NF ATACR, ZCO 4/20, Swaro Z8 3-18, Kahles 318/525's, Zeiss V8 now, Zeiss Diavari, March, etc


My honest opinion. The high end only ever so slightly out do the mid level simple because of the resolution. And it's sooooo minor.
Of the high end, the Kahles, new Zeiss V8, and Minox were the brightest. The Zeiss V8 being the brightest. Contrary to what all the "experts" say, the Polar, Diavari and Z8i fell behind them. But we are struggling to really see differences here.

Of the mid grade, the best to me were the Leica Amplus and yes, the NF NX8 4-32. The NX8 gets a bad wrap for whatever reason, but my 4-5 samples of the NX8 are phenomenal. The Steiner HX and Swaro Z6 were identical to me and both being right at the top.

I'll also say if you covered all the high end optics in this list and threw in the Leica Amplus, you probably wouldn't see a difference between the Amplus and the top tier. It's excellent in low light.

If I had to just pick one mid grade and high end low light optic that was good with glare from the setting or rising sun, resolved great, awesome eyebox, bright etc, it would be the Leica Amplus and the new Zeiss V8 NA.

I'm sure others will disagree with some of this.

I guess what I'm saying is don't get to crazy wrapped up in low light riflescopes here.
Thanks
 
A wider FOV in low light is more valuable to me than the highly subjective light gathering abilities.

Just when exactly is the light too low to hunt that your scope is going to make the deal? 28 minutes after legal sunset and in heavy timber is not going to be easy to find a sleuth deer in the scope. But in an open clearcut or field there's enough light to not worry about the cheapest scope. Really, what are we gaining here maybe 10 minutes of extra hunting at the end of each day? Can our eyes even see the difference?
Here's my take on all this! It boils down to the terrain, the cloud cover amounts, the animal you're after and it's movement if any , and the distance to target!. Every situation is different and you have to find what works for you. Yes 10 minutes can definitely make a difference and our ability to see the differences in the brightness of scopes varies! Grandson and myself have done our testing and for us we agree on what works best for us. Tribb
 
Zeiss Diavari and Victory glass has always been the clearest to me. May just be my eyes. Never have looked through a V8. My eyes have lost some low light performance. To much welding and cutting torch time I guess.

With us having a club rule of must be 8 points and 17" or better, some of our low light time has been lost. We have to be sure or pay the fine. The better scopes and binoculars still help though.
 

Recent Posts

Top