Most accurate .277 bullet in 1:8 twist Shaw barrel 270 win, hunting?h

With the 8twt, I would recommend
Berger 170gr. They shoot very well in my gun. If you haven't been cleaning the new barrel regularly through the first 100 shots.
I have always had good barrels from Shaw. But most took 100 to 150 rounds to settle in. Another good bullet is Nosler Accubond and there Ballistic Tip.
Hornady SST work well.
Hope this helps.

EDIT- H- 4350 or IMR

150 Grn Accubond LR worked very well in my custom 270 Win. with 29 inch heavy Hart barrel with an 8 twist and long throat . I used H 4831SC to try it out at 300 yards. I was very pleased. I have 170 Grn Bergers in 277 . but have not shot them yet !!!

My 270 from the 70s shoots everything ok about 1.5". They don't look cool as three shot groups but when you can put a whole box of corlokt 150s into that 1.5" it's pretty dang impressive. But it kinda shoots everything good enough. Until you mess with seating depth. I put Berger VLD or Nosler 150 ballistic tips and ABLRs out near the lands over RL23 it comes alive and it starts printing .75 clover leafs.
1) Play with seating depth of the current loads
2) Try a classic load 130gr bullet over IMR or H4831
3) Try Bergers or Hammers I haven't found a rifle that wouldn't shoot them, only using ABLRs instead of Berger's right now because I last time I bought 270 bullets was the Covid shortage and they were available and 150 VLDs were not when I needed them.

The 2 things that come to mind........If it shot good at the beginning, the velocity may have increased. I would try loading 5 rounds at 1 grain less powder and 5 rounds at .5 grain less powder and try them out.
The 2nd thing, is bedding. If it only shoot 1" with a custom barrel, I'd have it bedded.

Berger 130 grain or 140 grain classic hunter

The 2nd's are turds. Throw them away, or, at most, use them for fireforming brass.

140 Berger HVLDs are available, as well as 140 classic hunters. The VLDs are good target and hunting bullets.

Do some ladder testing with 4831sc, you'll find several accuracy nodes.

Clean barrel between bullet types (ie copper solids vs cup/core)

As others have mentioned the 130 Berger bullets have always shot well in my 270 win above H4831SC. You will need to determine bullet contact point and mess with bullet jump but that should work for you. Best of luck!!

Try the 170 Berger and 165 Sierra; both should like that 8 twist.

Get some velocities while you re shooting so you know if loads are reasonable pressure wise. I would try .010-.030 off the lands. If it still doesn't shoot start trouble shooting rifle as someone mentioned. Bedding, barrel/stock interference, scope, scope mounting.

Assuming you ve kept that new barrel relatively clean regarding fouling; both copper and carbon ?
Good Luck

I've been shooting the 165ablr in my factory 7.5 twist x bolt. Shoots .75" groups but not an easy bullet to load. Was really finicky finding a load. Haven't tried any other bullets yet. Going to start load development for the 140 btsp interlock soon for a cheaper whitetail bullet.

LRAB s seem to be "touchy" tuning wise. Thus my Berger and Dierra heavy bullet recommendation. If those won't shoot decent close to lands probably some other problem/s.

150 Sierra GK probably another alternative and at a somewhat less expensive price.

My Remington 700 is all factory Remington from 1964. It is bedded and has a trigger job. Shoots laser beams with the Hornady ELD-x and ELD-m's, 145 grain bullets. I have developed a load with those bullets and Superformance powder. Really quite amazing how accurate that combo is in my rifle.

cdherman said:

I talked my hunting buddy into rebarreling a Rem 700 270 win. I will not get into details about who did the barrel etc. It shot well during break-in but has not gotten much better at around 100 rds. Groups are 1" at best, 2" at worst. Better than the factory barrel by a good margin. I was super happy with the first 30 rounds or so - -groups were good enough that I assumed they would get better.

I am shooting some 145gr factory seconds from Midway. Look like 145 Hornady ELD-X bullets. They did not identify what they sent. These are a year or so old. Over H4831sc BR-2 Primer. Got them for the OLD barrel. Which was pure old Rem ****. It never shot anything close to 1"

Anyhow -- the gun looks nice and we have a sentimental attachment to the gun. I need a new .277 bullet to try. We value accuracy over velocity in this gun.

If you had to choose a bullet for accuracy (hunting is a secondary consideration, since it's for whitetail deer that are pretty easy to kill) what should I try next? Gameking? Berger? I want to try a bullet that is known good for accuracy.

Click to expand...

cdherman said:

I talked my hunting buddy into rebarreling a Rem 700 270 win. I will not get into details about who did the barrel etc. It shot well during break-in but has not gotten much better at around 100 rds. Groups are 1" at best, 2" at worst. Better than the factory barrel by a good margin. I was super happy with the first 30 rounds or so - -groups were good enough that I assumed they would get better.

I am shooting some 145gr factory seconds from Midway. Look like 145 Hornady ELD-X bullets. They did not identify what they sent. These are a year or so old. Over H4831sc BR-2 Primer. Got them for the OLD barrel. Which was pure old Rem ****. It never shot anything close to 1"

Anyhow -- the gun looks nice and we have a sentimental attachment to the gun. I need a new .277 bullet to try. We value accuracy over velocity in this gun.

If you had to choose a bullet for accuracy (hunting is a secondary consideration, since it's for whitetail deer that are pretty easy to kill) what should I try next? Gameking? Berger? I want to try a bullet that is known good for accuracy.

Click to expand...

Nosler 130 grain hunting ballistic tip are hard to beat on whitetails and hogs
They preform excellent for me (in Georgia)
I've had complete pass through one every one and
Most are Drt (dead right there) and they fly a lot more accurate than I can hold the rifle

My family has racks full of .277 cal. The last few decades use 140 ballistics tips and reg Accubonds for Mule deer and 150 reg Accubonds for Bull Elk.

My $0.02/ experience isn't specific to .277 bullets. I load for numerous rifles and have used many different bullets. I do all of my initial fire forming and barrel break-in with midway factory seconds at Jam. I've use the ones that seem like hornady and the ones that are clearly Sierra.

The first step I take when loading a new bullet is to seat everything either to jam or maximum magazine length over a middle of the road powder charge. Sometimes Jam is under mag length, especially with SMK bullets, sometimes with eld-m/x.

Next, i take all of my rounds, usually no fewer than 30, to the range. I bring a lee hand loader, seating die and my caliper with comparator. I measure and check that I have 2 rounds the same length. I shoot 2 well placed shots using all the proper fundamentals of marksmanship. If they don't touch, I push the bullet back 0.006" on 2 more rounds and repeat until bullet holes are touching. Then you go 0.006" further. If it opens up you go back 0.003" if it is touching you go back 0.006" if it's touching you seat somewhere in that 0.006" window. I fire another 3 rounds to verify seating depth, then, if everything is nice and tight, seat all remaining rounds at that depth and shoot.

I use this process after initial fireforming to get all of the brass evened out and get the new barrel broken in.

The point of this long winded spiel is to say, you need to run a seating depth test. There have only ever been 2 rifles I couldn't get down to where to where 3-5 shot groups were sub 1/2". The culprit in both cases were the hornady eld-m bullets. I changed to bergers on one and SMK on the other rifle and they both shoot small now. Sometimes it's bullet weight or construction that the rifle doesn't like. Sometimes it takes sending it to a different Smith to find out the throat is crooked, Lol.