Shortening LOP on a Browning Hells Canyon LR...

I am retrofitting my Browning HC LR (discountinued model) and an planning to cut 1 3/8" off the stock to make the LOP right at 12" with a 1/2" recoil pad.

Looking at the cut line (left vertical line) and the pilot holes for the recoil pad (horizontal lines), does anyone see any issues? The bottom pilot hole will be drilled at a slightly steeper angle than the plotted line.

Rear sling stud will be moved forward as well.

Welcome all thoughts!

Looks like u got tone. Id cut it. Lol


If something goes sideways u can get a new one from browning and Numrich.

Yes. The screw holes won't line up for the original pad because of the toe angle. I did a Savage and had to fit and epoxy a piece of hardwood inside and put new screw holes in the proper location. I made a 4 sided wood box (no top, no bottom) to clamp to the fence on my chop saw, then skimmed the side facing the blade to ensure squareness, so that the original butt surface can be held square and level, the cheek piece toward the fence, then put a couple of shims under the rest of the stock to steady it while I cut it off. Once you cut through, let the blade stop before retracting it.

Why so short? Measure twice, cut once and don't forget about the thickness of the pad that was previously installed and the one to be mounted.

Rflshootr said:

Yes. The screw holes won't line up for the original pad because of the toe angle. I did a Savage and had to fit and epoxy a piece of hardwood inside and put new screw holes in the proper location. I made a 4 sided wood box (no top, no bottom) to clamp to the fence on my chop saw, then skimmed the side facing the blade to ensure squareness, so that the original butt surface can be held square and level, the cheek piece toward the fence, then put a couple of shims under the rest of the stock to steady it while I cut it off. Once you cut through, let the blade stop before retracting it.

Why so short? Measure twice, cut once and don't forget about the thickness of the pad that was previously installed and the one to be mounted.

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I measured my LOP over the course of several hours. With a t-shirt and the 90 degree angle in the arm method, I was 1" short of the nearest point in the trigger. With my hunting clothes on, including a jacket and layers, I was almost 1 3/4" short of the trigger. So, I "happied" it out to cutting at 1 3/8", which I have not done yet.

I have three different kick-eez pads coming at 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4. They are all the same size and have the same holt spacing, so I will be able to play around and add length back if I need it. With it being a 7mm RM, I am a little worrried about recoil, but I am also installing one of the new Browning breaks, so I am going to guess that will help with the recoil.

Regarding the cut, I think I am going to use a hacksaw and a fresh blade, as I have heard horror stories about the chop saw blade melting the compound instead of cutting it. That said, I am not at all opposed to it, and will likely make a jig anyway just to see and to enjoy some more tinker time.

Regarding the pilot holes, the one on top will have to go higher than the original one, which will pull the lower one up a bit (but not too much) and avoid splitting the stock.

I've done the chop saw on a couple or so and as long as you take your time then it is the best method in my opinion. Good luck.

Rick Richard said:

I've done the chop saw on a couple or so and as long as you take your time then it is the best method in my opinion. Good luck.

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Thanks...I am happy to take the time and cut once, and cut well.

I currently have a blade for finish work on my saw. Maybe that will do better regarding the melting?

What blades did you use?

Are your recoil pads grind to fit? The cut will likely make custom fitting the pad necessary.

Laguna Freak said:

Are your recoil pads grind to fit? The cut will likely make custom fitting the pad necessary.

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Yup, all are grind to fit. Already have the jig and the vertical belt sander as well.

Just waiting on the pads at this point and to find the time (tomorrow) to make the jig for the actual cut on the chop saw. Unless I decide to go with the hack-saw approach.

Something you may want to try......put your hunting jacket on, put the rifle to your shoulder where it comes up naturally and is comfortable with your eyes closed. Have someone measure from your brow to the scope. Then, open your eyes and crawl up on the scope until you get a full field of view in the scope and then have the person remeasure from the same 2 points. The difference between the 2 numbers should give you a good indication. Then do the same thing in the prone position to see what the difference is. It will be different! I would err to the longer length. Once you cut it, double face tape each pad to the butt and try it out. You can always take more off, but adding back is tougher. I would also go to harbor freight and buy a brand new carbide tooth blade that is nice and sharp. My saw takes a 12" blade and I use a 60 tooth finish blade. I've cut walnut stocks, laminated stocks and plastic stocks. Haven't had a problem yet with my set up....knock on wood.

Rflshootr said:

Something you may want to try......put your hunting jacket on, put the rifle to your shoulder where it comes up naturally and is comfortable with your eyes closed. Have someone measure from your brow to the scope. Then, open your eyes and crawl up on the scope until you get a full field of view in the scope and then have the person remeasure from the same 2 points. The difference between the 2 numbers should give you a good indication. Then do the same thing in the prone position to see what the difference is. It will be different! I would err to the longer length. Once you cut it, double face tape each pad to the butt and try it out. You can always take more off, but adding back is tougher.

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I already did something similar to this, though not this exactly, over the last month. Overall, I needed to move forward an inch to get a good view through the scope. All summer and fall, I was having to push my head in past it's natural position to get a good, clear sight picture.

I think I might go with an inch initially (the lighter of the two vertical lines, and see. That said, I am worried the saw might shatter or walk if I cut a smaller amount a second time around.

My hunting partner is 5'2" and he has 2 of these rifles and has cut the stock on both, once by the GS, and the second he did himself. I'm not sure you can get replacement stocks from Browning. I tried to talk him into a youth model rifle or at least a compact one or a women's one like a Camilus from WBY.

Philward said:

My hunting partner is 5'2" and he has 2 of these rifles and has cut the stock on both, once by the GS, and the second he did himself. I'm not sure you can get replacement stocks from Browning. I tried to talk him into a youth model rifle or at least a compact one or a women's one like a Camilus from WBY.

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Browning has stocks they will sell you. I tried the new "MAX" stock as well and it was much longer with less length to be cut off. It was a GREAT stock, but, just didn't fit me at all, which made me sad.

I shorten all my stocks to somewhere between 12.5 and 13 and I'm a six footer, or at least I was before old age shrunk me. I think most factory stocks are too long, and other hunters always seem surprised how my rifles fit them better than their own. As far as shortening synthetic stocks goes I cut them rough within a quarter inch and use a table mounted belt sander to take them to the final length. This lets me keep them square and level for a better fit. I fill the empty stock with spray foam and epoxy a piece of wood in the last three quarter inch to hold the pad screws. It's better to do this before the belt sander finishing so all is flush. It's important to maintain the original pitch. I have found many people seem to want to cut at right angles to the bore and that is not the best.

Rick Richard said:

I've done the chop saw on a couple or so and as long as you take your time then it is the best method in my opinion. Good luck.

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Agreed