TennJed
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2012
- Messages
- 195
Thank you! Great info
The right diesā¦
- Thread starter VO2MaxFF
- Start date
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robert rex
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2016
- Messages
- 52
If you're going to touch each piece of brass anyway, you might as well seat bullets with 21 Century Hydro Press and LE Wilson in line seating die. It will effortlessly seat each bullet to .0005 every time. You'll also find by using it who makes uniform bullets and who doesn't. The 21 Century press will let you know how much neck tension your bushings and mandrels are providing, and make tuning neck tension way easier.
Deputy819
Well-Known Member
^^^^This^^^^ā¦.VERY MUCH!!!
Brother, you can get as "hairy" as you want and spend as much money as you want on dies/components THAT'S for sure! If you're just wanting to try something different then I say Go For It!!! However, don't get discouraged if you can't quantify the differences in equipment on paper. As @Bang4theBuck alluded to you'd need a bunch of specialized equipment to test the differences/results. For example, setting "NECK TENSION"ā¦..there's no way to know what your actual "neck tension" is without knowing the state of hardness of your case mouth. Dies (bushing & non-bushing) are merely setting a "mechanical interference fit" between the bullet and the case mouth. Bushing dies/mandrels simply allow you to have more "control" over that particular variable. So, just keep that in mind when looking at all the "razzle-dazzle" reloading stuff available to you and most of all Have Fun!
std7mag
Well-Known Member
Depends on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go.
Some call it OCD, some call it an**.
Starts with fixing things that were not broken to begin with.
Next thing you know, you're sitting there weight sorting primers.
Some call it OCD, some call it an**.
Starts with fixing things that were not broken to begin with.
Next thing you know, you're sitting there weight sorting primers.
VO2MaxFF
Member
I'm primarily a hunter and starting to tinker more with a few rifle projects for the winter. I have several very nice custom rifles and while I am certainly no PRS champion, I can shoot well. I have had some success at handloading as well, thus far, finding low ES and SD values with sub 1/2 MOA loads but not for every rifle and certainly not for every load. I primarily hunt with Hammer Hunter projectiles and they've proven incredibly effective. Just wondering what others have found to be THEIR best and learningā¦ as usual
VO2MaxFF
Member
I don't think I'll take it that far but I guess never say never! I have sorted every component for sure but I definitely don't feel the juice was worth the squeeze for ME.
Alex Wheeler
Well-Known Member
A die needs to squeeze the shoulder and base of the case the correct amount. It also needs to push the shoulder back the correct amount. Thats it. If the cheapest die on earth does that you wont beat it.
Really depends on what your goals are. You can make really accurate ammo with regular rcbs dies. If your hunting and plinking steel at moderate ranges going down the rabbit hole is not really necessary. A good option is a forster full length die honed to minimally work brass and their benchrest seater. They will hone the die pretty cheap. I will say using quality brass does help. Now if you plan on shooting long range and you are struggling with high es going the bushing route will help.
std7mag
Well-Known Member
You didn't tell us what your shooting goals are.
If I wanted to go shoot with @Alex Wheeler at a match and pretend to be halfway competitive, yeah I'd look at better dies.
Note, I'd love to shoot at a match with Mr. Wheeler, but I know better than to think I would be competitive with him!
The dies I have for my 7mm-08AI are old Pacific dies I found a flea market for $15.
I have hit a 24X24" steel plate at 1,300 yards. Took it to shoot my first F-Open match (600 yards).
So, no. You might not need to get the top notch dies.
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Marky_mark
Well-Known Member
This is the only right answer
Been further down the reloading rabbit hole than where I've ended up. I don't enjoy spending days reloading to blow through it in one range session. Process is often overlooked. Consistent results require consistent processes with consistent equipment, then repeat. There's a lot of good consistent equipment out there. Of you really want to see if something makes a difference you can only change 1 variable at a time. If you buy a new die and also change moving the shoulder back, what creates the new results the die or shoulder movement? Changing 1 thing and testing over and over is very time consuming.
Like others have said what is your goal? Figure out what's good enough for you and when you get there stop chasing cause you can go on forever. Dies are likely not the factor limiting accuracy. Lots of good recommendations here on good quality does without going crazy. Spend your time building good processes and go shoot
Like others have said what is your goal? Figure out what's good enough for you and when you get there stop chasing cause you can go on forever. Dies are likely not the factor limiting accuracy. Lots of good recommendations here on good quality does without going crazy. Spend your time building good processes and go shoot
Marky_mark
Well-Known Member
There is a reason why dies are different prices
Oh I agree and I'm not trying to say there's no difference in them. Just that there's diminishing returns as you spend more and more so you're going to spend a lot more for a little gain in a lot of cases. And if the rest of your process/rifle/ability can't take advantage of the difference you probably won't see a difference.
Just back to the goal, what's considered successful and don't need top end dies to get there
