The right dies…

VO2MaxFF

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Ok, talk to me. I've been handloading for 5+ years now with pretty good results using RCBS FL sizing dies, no mandrel for neck tension and have learned a ton. However, I'm now looking into match dies, bushing dies, mandrels etc. What say you, wise ones? Just how OCD/aka "detailed" should I get?

Thanks,
Erik
 
I've ran rcbs/redding/whidden and am now almost exclusively SAC, paired with the decapping mandrels they're not cheap. But save time and are very consistent. I've run the BC micron series too and they're okay, but I hate the lock ring setup on them.
Who is SAC?
 
Ok, talk to me. I've been handloading for 5+ years now with pretty good results using RCBS FL sizing dies, no mandrel for neck tension and have learned a ton. However, I'm now looking into match dies, bushing dies, mandrels etc. What say you, wise ones? Just how OCD/aka "detailed" should I get?

Thanks,
Erik
I've had excellent results with Redding FL bushing dies and their competition seaters. Currently using custom Whidden FL bushing size die and their micrometer seater with my 300 Norma Improved. Have another set of Whidden's on the bench for an upcoming custom 6 creedmore
 
The bottom line is that there are multiple approaches employed by the different brands and types of dies. No doubt some are just better, however, better can only be identified technically by how concentric and dimensionally accurate the resulting sized brass is. For that to be quantified, you need to have proper equipment to measure the results.

Sometimes, an inexpensive full length sizing with properly used expander ball arrangement size the brass perfectly for your particular rifle. Sometimes that same die used for a different rifle or with different brass (different neck thickness) makes for poor performance.

To be honest, I have found that the combination of a Redding body die (body only) and then a Lee neck collet die produce the straightest (very low run-out). And the combination is under $80.00.

If that combo is not available, I step up to Forester Benchrest. While I can control neck tension as easily, the straightness is very very good on all (20+) Cartridges I load for.

Your best approach to making selections on dies is to understand exactly how a particular die sizes and what it's control points are that it sizes to. Do not make the mistake of assuming that spending more money is going to produce better results.....as that is not universally true.
 
+1 for SAC dies. Expensive, but they are the best I've seen/ used. Full size dies come with bushings and mandrels. You can talk to them to decide which one(s) you'd need.
 
+1 for SAC dies. Expensive, but they are the best I've seen/ used. Full size dies come with bushings and mandrels. You can talk to them to decide which one(s) you'd need.
+2. Call them. They're a wealth of information and very open to discussion of your wants/needs.
 
If you don't want to drop the coin on the SAC dies, I have been extremely happy with my Redding Type S Busing Die in combination with the SAC neck sizing bushing. That set up is about 1/3 the cost. I also use the Redding competition shell holders to consistently keep my shoulder bump to 0.002".
 
Micron are top notch
 

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Are you a hunter or longrange/benchrest precision shooter? Stay out of the Rabbit Hole. No need for anything more than the Redding FL sizer with a carbide sizer button and a Redding or any mid priced benchrest seater. All the others are just wasted money. Also stay away from the bushing dies. They are a pain in the *** adding more expense.
Now days, reloading doesn't really help anything but the very long-range precision shooters who are shooting at 300 yards+. The modern PREMIUM factory loads are plenty accurate for <300 yard shooting.

I've been reloading for 55 years give or take. Been up and down this hole many times

Much has to do with the rifle you're shooting. Is it even capable of this type of accuracy?

Save your money for a .25 moa Custom Rifle, then check back.
 
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