Is a slightly 'hot' load OK for the brass and barrel?

Attrition is a thing...

Powder amount, heat of explosion value of the powder type and size of the bore are the primary factors dictating barrel life. High pressure is the primary killer of brass. More powder, higher heat of explosion and smaller case necks create overbore conditions. This amounts to more torch effect at the case mouth and more throat erosion. "Slightly hot" is not a peak pressure value so it's hard to say how bad your load might be.

VarmintBob said:

Powder amount, heat of explosion value of the powder type and size of the bore are the primary factors dictating barrel life. High pressure is the primary killer of brass. More powder, higher heat of explosion and smaller case necks create overbore conditions. This amounts to more torch effect at the case mouth and more throat erosion. "Slightly hot" is not a peak pressure value so it's hard to say how bad your load might be.

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Perfectly said.One thing to also keep in mind about the WSM's,the leads are long and start right near where the barrel starts.Once you get a few hundred rounds down the barrel and the erosion and carbon build up starts,you could also run into a pressure increase from where you are now.Your groups may also open up a bit.About five throat lapping bullets may take care of this problem.It's just something to watch out for and think about.This is what it will look like.

If you run a warm load don't leave the ammo in a hot pickup. Shot my truck gun yesterday (savage 308) and blew the extractor out. Second time this has happened, first was letting an Argentinian borrow the rifle on a July hog hunt. He shot a pig and the primer fell out upon extraction, ejector spring toast. Rifle had been sitting in the pickup in the sun for around an hour while we visited. Near max load of Varget

As already mentioned back off .5 grains next time.

I think I might start over and back off close to 2 grains to look for more potential accuracy loads.

It has been my experience with both rifles and revolvers that primer cratering will show up with virtually all loads *if the gun is prone to cratering.* This means you simply cannot use cratering as a pressure sign (I have a Model 28 that craters lite target loads the same as it does hot 158 gr loads). If it doesn't crater with mid range loads but does with hotter loads, it simply means you need to back off the load as it's too hot. By the time you get difficult or sticky bolt lift you are WAY over. This will destroy your brass faster than anything else you can do to it! You will get oversized primer pockets on a single reload if you have any but normal bolt lift.

The main problem with nickel plated brass is that it doesn't "grab" the walls of your chamber, resulting in higher pressures being transmitted to the bolt face. How much? I don't really know! I'm certain some ballistics expert with the right equipment has worked this out but I'm not personally aware of the research. It would take a pretty deep Google search to find it I suspect. Nickel brass will usually crack the neck much faster due to the nickel being much less elastic than brass, so life is limited more. I'll admit, I do like nickel brass because of the ease of extraction but generally don't use much nickel plated rifle brass.

Whil, your cratered primers might show show faster with plated than it will brass cases, you still need to go by the indications of the brass. If it says pressure, you need to back down, period! As has been mentioned, there will be nodes at lower pressures that will just as accurate.
Cheers,
crkckr

setter said:

lite ejector mark

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May be seen on factory ammo. Fire a box.

Maximim loaded brass may be good for only 3 loading. Primer pockets get loose.

How often brass reaches maximum trim length should be watched. After trimming back .010" , 4 times, scrap brass.

Pressure signs-