Future Rifle Build and specs critique

A-Tip

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Hi all, I really want a Tikka in a 223 Ackley, it can wait for now, but I will be looking for a used one in the future. Anyway, I'm thinking of running a 20" barrel and using a suppressor that will end up making it about 25"-27". The main question I want to get to is, I plan on running a 40 gr vmax or Nosler BT to about a 55 gr vmax or BT. Is the 40 gr bullet a little too light for yotes? I have a friend that swears the sweet spot for killing with any bullet is 3800-3850 fps out of whatever gun you're using. Personally 40 grains is to light but what do you guys say?
 
Well, there isn't much of a build in there for us to critique. If I was to buy a Tikka for .223 AI, I'd have the factory barrel set back and rechambered and then cut and thread the barrel at 16-16.25" for suppressor use. BBI did testing on .223 Rem, cutting the barrel from 18" down to 5". You might be 200 fps slower from 20" to a 16". A 26" .223 isn't the end of the world, but a 22" swings better when tracking moving targets.

Bullets regardless of speed kill best when you put them where they belong. However, if you're really worried about velocites (3800 fps) get a different cartridge. A .223 AI can't magically become a .22-250, Creedmoor, GT, or ARC. If you want speed then more powder is the way to go. The other option is build build a .204 Ruger, .20 Practical, or 17 Rem if speed in a small case is priority.

40 grain isn't light for coyotes, it does a wonderful job of stopping them in their tracks. It's not a great choice when calling and the dog hangs up at 400 yards or further, or for other longer range targets of opportunity varmints. The wind just comes into play. With a Tikka 1:8 twist you can use bullets that buck the wind better than a 40 grain, maybe the new ELD-VT 62 grain.

A lighter bullet is usually more fur friendly, as long as it doesn't blow up the entrance. Bullets in the 40-45 grain range rarely exit, and that's better for saving fur. If you're not worried about saving fur, then use any bullet that shoots well.

I had good results with with the 55 grain Blitz and 60 grain Varmiter from Sierra from a 1:12 twist .223 Rem back when I had time to call alot. If shot high behind the shoulder or frontal in the chest, the coyote would just lock up and fall over. I didn't have a chrono back then, but I was loading according to book around 3000-3100 fps and killed piles of varmints.
 
Well, there isn't much of a build in there for us to critique. If I was to buy a Tikka for .223 AI, I'd have the factory barrel set back and rechambered and then cut and thread the barrel at 16-16.25" for suppressor use. BBI did testing on .223 Rem, cutting the barrel from 18" down to 5". You might be 200 fps slower from 20" to a 16". A 26" .223 isn't the end of the world, but a 22" swings better when tracking moving targets.

Bullets regardless of speed kill best when you put them where they belong. However, if you're really worried about velocites (3800 fps) get a different cartridge. A .223 AI can't magically become a .22-250, Creedmoor, GT, or ARC. If you want speed then more powder is the way to go. The other option is build build a .204 Ruger, .20 Practical, or 17 Rem if speed in a small case is priority.

40 grain isn't light for coyotes, it does a wonderful job of stopping them in their tracks. It's not a great choice when calling and the dog hangs up at 400 yards or further, or for other longer range targets of opportunity varmints. The wind just comes into play. With a Tikka 1:8 twist you can use bullets that buck the wind better than a 40 grain, maybe the new ELD-VT 62 grain.

A lighter bullet is usually more fur friendly, as long as it doesn't blow up the entrance. Bullets in the 40-45 grain range rarely exit, and that's better for saving fur. If you're not worried about saving fur, then use any bullet that shoots well.

I had good results with with the 55 grain Blitz and 60 grain Varmiter from Sierra from a 1:12 twist .223 Rem back when I had time to call alot. If shot high behind the shoulder or frontal in the chest, the coyote would just lock up and fall over. I didn't have a chrono back then, but I was loading according to book around 3000-3100 fps and killed piles of varmints.
Is it necessary to set the barrel back to rechamber to the Ackley Improved?
 
Yes it is. You have to take more material out of the chamber to improve it. If you didnt set it back your headspace would be crazy long and you would probably end up hurting yourself.
 
I have a tikka 223AI, I shoot heavies and have a long throat in mine to seat bullets out there. It sounds like you would want a 22-250 more than a 223. 3800 might be possible in a 223 if you push it really hard. A 20" barrel would make it hard to get what you want out of it. But a short throated 22 Creedmoor or 22-250 would probably be more suitable for your needs. I shoot a 22-250ai with 40 grain hammers at over 4000fps.
 
I have a 22-250 ai setup for 53gr vmax and a 22 creed setup for 80 gr eld's. Im just wanting to have a build guns.
 
Is it necessary to set the barrel back to rechamber to the Ackley Improved?
It has been done without setting the barrel back, but mainly in rimmed or belted cartridges. For rimless cartridges the traditional method is to set the barrel back.
If you didnt set it back your headspace would be crazy long and you would probably end up hurting yourself.
I don't know how dangerous it is, but the headspace is excessive. With a true "Ackley" chamber you want a slight crush fit on the unmodifed case when closing the bolt on the chamber. A standard Go-gage becomes a No-go for an Ackley chamber.

The slight crush fit holds the case against the the bolt face and supports the neck shoulder juncture and aids fire forming. If one were to ream a .223 AI chamber without setting the barrel back, you would probably want to neck up your brass to .243 before necking back down to .223 AI. You'd only neck down far enough to create a false shoulder, checking in your action until you create a slight crush fit.

Once you achieve a false shoulder you go through the loading process of priming, powder charge, and bullet seating. Then you can proceed with fire forming, as this way avoids light primer strikes. Caused by the firing pin is pushing the case forward instead of igniting the primer.

A set back and rechambered AI cartridge advantage is, you just shoot SAAMI spec ammunition in it to fire form. Since a .223 AI isn't SAAMI standardized there really isn't a wrong way to rechamber a rifle. One way is more work at the lathe, the other is more work at the loading bench.

As a caveat, I'll say the only AI cartridge I've worked with is a .280 GNR. A rimmed 7mm based of the .405 Win case. It was a PITA so I've sworn of AI cases unless its SAAMI standardized.
 
My own 223/5.56 is a 8" twist throated for 77-88g pills, originally it was throated for 69g fodder, but I don't really like those bullet choices in that weight.
I don't understand why you want to use such a lightweight bullet, they suck in wind for a start and their trajectory sucks beyond about 400yrds.

Cheers.
 
I don't understand why you want to use such a lightweight bullet, they suck in wind for a start and their trajectory sucks beyond about 400yrds.
Because he's looking for velocity.
I have a friend that swears the sweet spot for killing with any bullet is 3800-3850 fps out of whatever gun you're using.
 
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