I believe the best e-bike will vary greatly depending on the rider and his needs/expectations. Hunting or riding conditions can vary greatly depending on the type of terrain, the elevation gain & loss during an outing, the need to carry additional gear/weight, the suspension you want for your style of riding. After studying several models, I realized that there was no one model of e-bike that checked all my boxes. There was always some compromise required.
Regarding hub motors, they are great for flat to rolling terrain. But if steep hill climbing (be it street, road or trail) is in your future, then hub drives lose out to mid-drives every time. They simply don't have the torque to get you up those long hill climbs. For those of us who hunt out west, the need for elevation gain is almost always a must. As to the chain braking problem, several manufacturers are now making beefier chains specifically for e-bikes. If my chain ever breaks, I simply remove the broken link and then add a new replacement link to the chain. I always carry a couple spare links and the tool to replace them in my handlebar bag. A chain break is a lot easier to repair than a flat tire- especially on tubeless rims.
After I did my own research, I decided that the most cost-effective e-bike for me that required the least amount of compromise was one that I would have to build myself. I bought a used mountain bike for $1,000. Then I installed a Bafang mid-drive and reprogrammed it to provide nearly 1,500 watts of power. The conversion cost was another $1,600 for motor and all other necessary parts. Total cost was $2,600. The bike weighs almost 60 pounds (including hage battery). I can carry approx. 350 pounds on the frame (rider included). Top speed on this ten speed MTB is 30 mph. Range is just over 30 miles on battery using only the throttle control. If I use peddle assist, I can get close to 50 miles before battery is drained.
