Cutting threads
- Thread starter Clark
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066wally
Well-Known Member
Looks good from my house. Take lighter cuts next time.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Tool geometry, SFM, lack of proper oil/coolant
BillLarson
Well-Known Member
As stated above.Lots of reasons.A high speed cutting tool will leave a better finish at slow speeds.Carbide tooling is designed for high speeds.I grind my own.A Sulphur based cutting oil also is a benefit...
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
There is no reason to not learn how to grind HS tooling. Inserts are for 'production', where repeatability is needed to be competitive. Supposedly, hobbyists have lots of 'extra' time.
I use an indexable carbide insert, lots of cutting oil, no setup for fluid, small increments, and my threads look pretty good when I'm finished imo. My two cents anyway but it is free.
Meh...matters not. Ain't gonna affect how it shoots.
So you're doing a 6.5 Vostok, huh?
That's on my list- I got the reamer print from Manson but haven't pulled the trigger on it because I'm not clear how I'd neck that 54R brass down. Not much shoulder on that barrel, is that one of the receivers with the inner torque ring? Savage take-off?
I think that's one bad-*** round. I've never found ballistic charts on it- but I see it being right there with the .260 on paper.
Details, please !!
So you're doing a 6.5 Vostok, huh?
That's on my list- I got the reamer print from Manson but haven't pulled the trigger on it because I'm not clear how I'd neck that 54R brass down. Not much shoulder on that barrel, is that one of the receivers with the inner torque ring? Savage take-off?
I think that's one bad-*** round. I've never found ballistic charts on it- but I see it being right there with the .260 on paper.
Details, please !!
+1 for HSS & Hi-Sulphur cutting oil for that application.
It will be fine for what it is. At least you are doing it on your own with your own machines.
It will be fine for what it is. At least you are doing it on your own with your own machines.
Well I usually don't post on things like this, because there are soo many to respond.
First we need to know what you level of machining is?
What machine and tooling you are using, what speed?
Are you using HHS tooling at what speeded: 75rpm<
What lubricant's did you use?
I suggest that you use a HHS steel tool (not carbide) and "VIPER VENOM" cutting oil.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Sure, it'll work as it is. But there used to be such a thing as "Pride in Workmanship", and maybe that's what he's looking for. My guess here (and it's just a guess) is carbide tooling that is being run too slowly. Run any tool too slow and it begins to 'tear' instead of 'cut'. Any machine shop I have worked in would 'reject' that thread finish.
RuninL8
Well-Known Member
Ok, so yeah surface finish is not great, my worry is that the top of your threads are not filed, which most likely means that when you fit the reciever to the barrel the bearing surface is the top of the v in the threads instead of the back side of the threads. If you filed and fit disregard. However be advised if you didn't, you may only have a few thou of metal for a mating surface. Could be dangerous/will not produce repeatable results.
RuninL8
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry, as far as surface finish, if you are using carbide and you are turning slower that 115 rpm. You have to take less than .002 passes with oil. Makes for alot of passes but it will work and give a better finish. Now, if that was with HSS then, you took too big of a cut (more than .003) or your machine needs adjustment, which could be a number of things. Happy to answer questions via pm.
Brian_Smith
Member
Well from a trained tool and die maker/machinist and TSJC Graduate 20yr Gunsmith's perspective....those threads look like hell. "All ya Gotta do is".
Sorry to be negative about it.
Sorry to be negative about it.
