Uniform Case Length?

^^^^ What he said. ^^^^

Yeah that's kinda what I'm thinking. How would you guys determine the correct amount of time if you were here using my hillbilly setup that you've never encountered before?

I did some 6.5 Creedmoor a couple days ago. I pointed the flame point right at the shoulder neck junction and turned them in a drill socket for about 8 seconds. I watch the shoulder. it will start to kinda evaporated the moisture on it. The color will travel down it a bit. In low light you don't want to see the neck turning a dim glow of red. Remove it from the flame just before that. Practice on a couple, it will be easy.

Don't polish the brass aftward. It removes some of the annealing color.

Barrelnut said:

Don't polish the brass aftward. It removes some of the annealing color.

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Thus it would be hard to determine how you did as the color has been wiped away.
I use an Annealeze and what I tend to look for is the orange flame that comes off the brass after a few seconds. I want to stop just before that happens.

Canhunter35 said:

I set up a butane torch and use a socket on a cordless impact then slowly rotate the case neck just outside the tip of the flame. I watch the colour change and try to stop at the same spot on the case body.

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I'll have to try this. I have always used the old way of holding head of the case in my fingers. Always been told if the head gets hot before the neck turns orange the fire is too cold. The idea is to never let the big end get hot. I can see how the socket would act as a heat sink, and getting tough to do many of them with RA and stiff fingers. Thanks.

Orange Dust said:

I'll have to try this. I have always used the old way of holding head of the case in my fingers. Always been told if the head gets hot before the neck turns orange the fire is too cold. The idea is to never let the big end get hot. I can see how the socket would act as a heat sink, and getting tough to do many of them with RA and stiff fingers. Thanks.

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I've had good luck doing it this way. Good luck

Thanks

I built a home made annealing machine from cheap ebay parts--it works real good, I set up by using tempilaq in a few necks till I get it set, then just go for it as it has a timer on the drum

I'm just learning about annealing, and use the drill method and water. I have an old food dehydrator that works well for drying the cases.
I don't know when to anneal per say. I see some anneal every time, some every 5-6 times, etc. Currently, every three times is what I picked till I learn different.
Any opinions on this would be nice

cohunt said:

I built a home made annealing machine from cheap ebay parts--it works real good, I set up by using tempilaq in a few necks till I get it set, then just go for it as it has a timer on the drum

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I swear I saw this same one on a YouTube video, I want to build one someday

TG-5150 said:

I'm just learning about annealing, and use the drill method and water. I have an old food dehydrator that works well for drying the cases.
I don't know when to anneal per say. I see some anneal every time, some every 5-6 times, etc. Currently, every three times is what I picked till I learn different.
Any opinions on this would be nice

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I've found annealling standard cartridges every 3rd loading sufficient and every 2nd loading on magnums works well

When I was a kid we didn't trim or anneal. My dad didn't believe in loading past the middle of what a book said and after #6 they got chucked. And we shot all kinds of brass, loads of range brass too. I've reflected on how far I've come in reloading since the eighties. There is still much to learn and explore.
The wizardry in this is so alluring.....I'm definitely hooked.

There is no need to drop your annealed brass in water. It does nothing for the metal structure of the brass.