Lee Die Owners Please Help

birdiemc

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Everytime I see dies come up in conversation there is always somebody who chimes in and says "I've been using Lee dies for years and never had a problem"...those are the guys I would like to hear from here.
I have a Lee single stage press, have bought Lee 3 die sets for all cartridges I now own, and I need help.
I'm having issues with my FL sizing die being inconsistent. To set it up I took a piece of brass I fired in my rifle, slapped the hornady comparator on the digital calipers, measured a case and hit the zero button. Checked 3 more and stayed at zero, so there's my chamber dimension. Then set up my die to bump back .002, easy, now instead of .000 my calipers read -.002. Tested a few cases, all measure the same so started running 30 pieces of brass through checking each one as I went. (2) -.005, (2) -.003, (6) -.002, (11) -.001, (9) .000

I have the same problem when seating bullets, usually end up with as much as .002-.003 variance in CBTO in 30 rounds.

My press has the quick change bushings, which I don't utilize. I have the one bushing that came with it and just screw my dies into that. I have index marks on my dies so I can theoretically get them seated the same every time.

When I run them down I go hand tight, I dont break out tools to tighten the jam nut.

So again, you out there who have been using Lee dies successfully for years please tell me what I'm doing wrong.
Or is that much inconsistency acceptable?
 
There may be a few reasons for the discrepiences in the measurements. Are you using the Lee lock rings that came with the dies. IMO they are worthless. I always replace them with good lock rings like the Hornady style ones. Another reason is there could be some slop in the bushing or in your press linkage. Being that this is taking place with both the sizing die and seating die I would look more at your linkage or bushing. I once had this discrepancy with my sizing die and discouvered that my press linkage was cracked. It was hard to find, had to examine the linkage real good to find the crack.
There are also other things to consider such as are all your brass fired the same amount of times are they the same headstamp and from the same lot. etc.
 
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Yes using the lock rings that came with the o-ring. I think I'm getting stacked tolerances with the bushing/press fit and die/bushing fit, then the o-ring perhaps not holding everything perfectly secure. Brass is same lot, same number firings. At least the stuff I was specifically addressing in my OP.
I've considered epoxy the bushing to the press, eliminate that room for error. Also considered the hornady lock rings, but before I go doing anything crazy or spending money I wanted to hear from satisfied Lee users.
 
Maybe you could first try a different lock ring. If this does not do the trick I would then try another bushing. These are not expensive things to try. If you decide to epoxy your bushing this could be tricky. How would you know it is done with the proper alignment till after the epoxy is hardened and you try a case.
 
Lock ring has been replaced on mine. I did have an issues years ago trying to get my press and dies to get the shoulder on Weatherby brass correct. I think the press had an issue. I bought a rock crusher and never looked back. The dies were fine in my RCBS but I have sold the gun since then. The press I had was the very cheap one non steal press. I currently use some 308 Lee dies with hornady lock rings. They work well. My preferred die is Redding though. I have had the best luck with Redding.
 
So seems like the consensus is to ditch the lock ring. I do have another bushing that came with my hand load press so I can try that but looks like the lock rings seem to be the recommended fix.
 
I use the Lee lock ring but I LOCK IT DOWN using a wrench. Otherwise you will have slight flex movement of the die. It could also be slop in your press. Either lock the die down with a wrench or replace the lock rings with conventional type and see what happens. I have used about all the major die makers stuff over the past 40 years and there are good and bad in them all. I probably use more Lee dies than anything these days because they work for me once I learned how to use them correctly.
 
Upgrade the lock rings. I went to the Hornady ones, but then noticed that the Lee press was actually flexing under load. Now I am using an RCBS Rockchucker Supreme and have no trouble with any of my dies, Lee or other brands. Switching out the lock rings cut the slop in half, and then going to the stronger press got rid of virtually all of the rest. The dies are decent, and I especially like the collet neck sizing die and the factory crimp die, but the lock rings with the rubber o-rings are useless. If you don't want to buy new lock rings, maybe try doubling them up and locking them down that way, but I even put the Hornady rings on my Redding dies.
 
I have several Lee dies and they work well for what I use them for. I replace the Lee lock ring with the Hornady split ring before I ever use the die. I have been reloading almost 30 years and have used dies from most manufacturers and I may get jumped on for this BUT my most accurate dies are Forster and Redding. After replacing a few Lee dies with the Redding and Forster I have seen a marked improvement in the accuracy of what I consider accurate rifles (accurized factory rifles as I can't afford a custom). I use the Lee dies for some handguns and rifles that I will keep the range under 200 - 300 yards like 30-30, 300 blackout, 35 Rem, 44 mag, 223 plinking ammo for the AR15's and such.

YMMV - good luck
 
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Just seated some bullets, tightened the lock ring down with a wrench which cranked the bushing on nice and tight past the spring lock. CBTO measures under .001 difference, so looks like the wrench is the key.
These cases are twice fired.
Plan to start annealing, just gotta get into town and get a torch.
 
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