Need some guidance..

You obviously don't have as many one-shot kills on cervids (and no cripples) with a .22-250 Rem and 52gr BTHPs as I have amassed. But then, I never pulled the trigger with the mindset or the sight picture for doing "massive internal damage" on either man or beast...
Do tell, I've only been shooting the 220 Swift since the seventies killing dozens of deer, antelope, and hogs with it.

The .52 BTHP goes off like a little bomb in the chest cavity doing massive internal damage out to 300-400yds.
 
I think even most great fans of the 22-250 would agree it's a little light for Elk hunting considering it fires a 22 cal (specifically a .224) round. Most are 12 twist so may not even stabilize the heaviest 224 bullets. On the plus side it has a muzzle velocity of over 3800 FPS with a 53 gn projectile. So has a lot of energy and potential penetration and range with the right bullet.
Penetration is greatly limited by mass, momentum and sectional density as well as the materials and construction of the bullet.

None of the .22's are adequate for anything larger than deer/antelope much beyond 200yds. The smaller the mass the quicker it loses energy and velocity when it encounters resistance.
 
There is one problem with muzzle breaks and hunting. The sound directed back is such that you have to carry ear muffs or you will get hearing damage when you shoot as various ear plugs and even noise cancellation plugs do not do the job. You know that you are getting permanent damage if you have ringing in your ears after shooting; means that hair cells in the cochlea have been killed. We older guys who are losing hearing take it pretty seriously. So the challenge is to select something that you can shoot off the bench without a muzzle break, and carries a
enough wallop to do what you want done at the distance you want to shoot with minimal or no ear protection while hunting. We don't usually use the muzzle break on the bench and take it off for hunting; it is too big a variable.
Not all brakes are equal and those direct very little of the blast/noise back at the shooter.

Certainly those that are the most efficient at reducing recoil redirect much of that blast back at the shooter which needs to be part of the criteria one uses in selecting a brake.

We should all be using hearing protection whether we shoot with or without brakes of any kind.
 
I killed an elk with a Ford Sable but don't recommend it. The .308 is good for anything in North America. Having a rifle chambered with a newer cartridge only creates problems such as forgetting to pack your ammo or wasn't allowed to take ammo with you. Few places carry this stuff in remote areas. Too much media hype about modern cartridges being 150fps faster, the animal will never know it. Iwould bet that average distances for game shot is well within 200 yards.
The .300H&H was developed in 1912, the .308w, 52, and .300wm 63.

The energy, velocity, and "flat shooting" of the wm dwarf anything the .308 is capable of and you can find ammo for it in every mom and pop shop in the country.
 
Are you aware the-late Roy Weatherby took a Cape Buffalo with a .257Wby?

"Range" is typically defined as: a set of different things of the same general type.

Ballistically, "range" is generally a function of a specific caliber's ballistic properties; the projectile's mass; and terminal velocity. Sans the affect of the Earth's rotational drift...
And in the context of "Long Range Hunting" and "Long Range Shooting" with rifles "Long Range" generally starts at about 600yds.
 
why a muzzle brake? You don't feel the shot while hunting but with a brake you will hurt your ears. Only ones supporting muzzle brakes for hunting are the ones selling them.
Well, that is completely factually untrue.

Muzzle brakes for hunting rifles first started becoming popular in the 80's and have been gaining in popularity every since.
 
Then I'd get another 340 Weatherby. The 6.5 Creedmoor won't do anything as well as the 340. Just because someone has done something and gotten my with it doesn't mean that it was the best thing do. You could kill one with a 22lr...but I wouldn't try it. Good luck!
Not that I'm a fan of the CM but it is a whole lot cheaper and more pleasant to shoot.
 
I've killed a cow elk with a 6.5 x 284 with a 129gr Interbond. One shot did the job at 328 yards. Have also killed numerous deer with the 6.5 Creedmore. I love the 6.5 for antelope, deer and am not afraid to use it on elk. That said, if long range elk hunting was my primary use, I would use my 7mm STW or build a 280AI.
There's no bigger fan of the STW than myself but with the specific goal of LR Elk huning the .300wm or better yea the .300 Rum certainly offer substantial advantages and gives the shooter more room for error.
 
Many options here but most of the time it boils down to shot placement and your ability to make it under given field conditions. Wounded animals ruin your trip.Get as close to game as possible. 338 Win Mag for me for a one gun do everything and good to have in Griz country. You are not so no worries there. The one gun do everything idea is not a bad one. You REALLY get good with one gun and practice and if you can load your own. I have a few, but concentrate one the one gun plan for big game hunting. Works well for me with no brake
I Focus on one gun/caliber each year. Once I have a good load developed and prove it on game I'll load up a couple of hundred all from the same lot of components and move onto the next. Keeps things interesting.
 
In general I'm a fan of the CM, and often a defender of its virtues with those who hate it. I had a Ruger 6.5CM that shot very well, that I sold to build my PRC.

If I walked into my LGS and said I want an elk gun and they told me I should buy a 6.5CM I would turn around and walk out.

Buy the 300 win and be done with it. You knew what you needed to begin with.
 
In general I'm a fan of the CM, and often a defender of its virtues with those who hate it. I had a Ruger 6.5CM that shot very well, that I sold to build my PRC.

If I walked into my LGS and said I want an elk gun and they told me I should buy a 6.5CM I would turn around and walk out.

Buy the 300 win and be done with it. You knew what you needed to begin with.
Like I said.. I'm new to this, so I had some questions.
 
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