940 yard bull 6.5 SAUM

  • Thread starter Deleted member 25294
  • Start date
I'm also running a saum built on a t3, what mags are you using that are tight? As I haven't noticed this with either of my wsm mags, have you noticed ejector stamp with even light loads? Btw great shot!
Thanks
It started off as a 7mm rem so I'm using the long action magnum magazine. My oal is 2.97" so the wsm mag is too short.
 
wow very impressive shot! congrats! Glad to hear the bull dropped quickly and you recovered! What was your speed of your round at 940 yards?
 
That'll keep ya coming back! Looked like a banner day to attempt the shot, any crosswind? If so how much adjustment at altitude, thanks for sharing, congrats!
 
wow very impressive shot! congrats! Glad to hear the bull dropped quickly and you recovered! What was your speed of your round at 940 yards?

That'll keep ya coming back! Looked like a banner day to attempt the shot, any crosswind? If so how much adjustment at altitude, thanks for sharing, congrats!
Thanks guys, impact speed was right around 1900 FPS, just under 1200 ft/lbs of energy at impact.
conditions were perfect for the shot, 3 mph crosswind, held 1.5 Minutes for wind.
The SAUM did the job but it's definitely not what I'd recommend past 700 yards.
I shoot that gun a lot and felt extremely confident in making a near perfect shot so I took it. My 7mm was down, and the 6.5 is what I had available
 
All of this is inspiring me to consider a 6.5 PRC. I have an old Wby MkV in 300 winmag that is finally shot out to the point that I can no longer trust it past 200, and even the pet loads won't group like they used to. Time to rebarrel! And with the standard-length magazine & belted mag bolt face it seems like I won't need to do much more than the rebarrel/re-bluing, which is readily affordable on the budget of a mere mortal like me!
Like many I'm quite enthusiastic with the 6.5 Creedmoor, but I just cannot escape the feeling that if a long shot pops up on a nice buck or bull the Creed is just a bit light on horsepower as the rangefinder passes 500 yards. Of course I have other choices for elk to begin with...but let's face it we all like trying new things or we probably wouldn't be reading this!
So as an experienced handloader, I have a few questions for the group -
1) It seems like 6.5 PRC brass is readily available from Hornady, and unlike some others I've never had terrible results that I could pin on that brand of brass. Not having to re-work the brass to a wildcat caliber is usually a time-and-money saver. I am certainly not opposed to the extra steps, but at some point one might ask if the extra cost and effort are producing enough improvement over an off-the-shelf option...of course careful and precise handloading techniques apply. Thoughts from the group?
2) As the 6.5 PRC is a relative newcomer, I have not seen a lot of feedback comparing options to work with for this cartridge - ideal barrel length and twist, preferred powders, loading info like best COAL for a given bullet/powder combo and of course barrel life. Therefore any honest input would be appreciated, highlighting both successful and not-so-desirable results. While this string started out talking about elk, let's not limit our conversation to just one target species. Deer and PH antelope are fun at long range too!
 
All of this is inspiring me to consider a 6.5 PRC. I have an old Wby MkV in 300 winmag that is finally shot out to the point that I can no longer trust it past 200, and even the pet loads won't group like they used to. Time to rebarrel! And with the standard-length magazine & belted mag bolt face it seems like I won't need to do much more than the rebarrel/re-bluing, which is readily affordable on the budget of a mere mortal like me!
Like many I'm quite enthusiastic with the 6.5 Creedmoor, but I just cannot escape the feeling that if a long shot pops up on a nice buck or bull the Creed is just a bit light on horsepower as the rangefinder passes 500 yards. Of course I have other choices for elk to begin with...but let's face it we all like trying new things or we probably wouldn't be reading this!
So as an experienced handloader, I have a few questions for the group -
1) It seems like 6.5 PRC brass is readily available from Hornady, and unlike some others I've never had terrible results that I could pin on that brand of brass. Not having to re-work the brass to a wildcat caliber is usually a time-and-money saver. I am certainly not opposed to the extra steps, but at some point one might ask if the extra cost and effort are producing enough improvement over an off-the-shelf option...of course careful and precise handloading techniques apply. Thoughts from the group?
2) As the 6.5 PRC is a relative newcomer, I have not seen a lot of feedback comparing options to work with for this cartridge - ideal barrel length and twist, preferred powders, loading info like best COAL for a given bullet/powder combo and of course barrel life. Therefore any honest input would be appreciated, highlighting both successful and not-so-desirable results. While this string started out talking about elk, let's not limit our conversation to just one target species. Deer and PH antelope are fun at long range too!
They are coming with a .300 PRC in 2019.
 
I've killed a good enough number of elk with a 6.5 SS in the 800 plus minus range that it's abundanly clear it's pushing the bullets, this is why we worked on getting the 160 Matrix made is that's what it takes to legitimately be consistently taking elk with a 6.5 at these ranges and not have issues. Shot placement is beyond critical, I've seen several bullets not capable of breaking an elks spine at those ranges even, if one dropped a second shot needs to immediately follow cause you simple don't have the bullet to blow out enough goodies to make a fast kill with a high or shoulder shot.

You can fix the mag issue with the Tikka by popping the bottom of the mag and just sanding or scrapping a little inside the back half inch and they'll run like butter.
 
They are coming with a .300 PRC in 2019.
Now that does sound interesting! I don't go by "30Calyooper" for the heck of it! So the question would be how it will compare to the 300 WSM...which to be honest has a special place in my heart. Fantastic results for deer and antelope at reasonable distances (say out to 600...) with both my Sub-MOA Vanguard and my Sako A7. Never have gotten into the heavier (180+) bullets with either, except for a bear load with a 180 Fusion at a sedate 2900 FPS. Have bigger 300's for that type of work.
 
Now that does sound interesting! I don't go by "30Calyooper" for the heck of it! So the question would be how it will compare to the 300 WSM...which to be honest has a special place in my heart. Fantastic results for deer and antelope at reasonable distances (say out to 600...) with both my Sub-MOA Vanguard and my Sako A7. Never have gotten into the heavier (180+) bullets with either, except for a bear load with a 180 Fusion at a sedate 2900 FPS. Have bigger 300's for that type of work.

Its a long action magnum built to hit between win mag and weatherby so not terribly like a wsm
 
I've killed a good enough number of elk with a 6.5 SS in the 800 plus minus range that it's abundanly clear it's pushing the bullets, this is why we worked on getting the 160 Matrix made is that's what it takes to legitimately be consistently taking elk with a 6.5 at these ranges and not have issues. Shot placement is beyond critical, I've seen several bullets not capable of breaking an elks spine at those ranges even, if one dropped a second shot needs to immediately follow cause you simple don't have the bullet to blow out enough goodies to make a fast kill with a high or shoulder shot.

You can fix the mag issue with the Tikka by popping the bottom of the mag and just sanding or scrapping a little inside the back half inch and they'll run like butter.

Rhian,

Do the 160s need to be annealed?
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top