Recent content by Dean2

That should be good for 8 or 10 deer at least; before you need a new barrel.;)

I like the 257 but for point and shoot to 350 or 400 yards, even a 308 will do that. It is all about how the cartridge is sighted in. My 308 spits out a 130 grain TTSX at 3150 Fps, sighted 4.2 high at 100 you are good to nearly 400 yards. Barnes 130 TSX BC 340 3150 FPS Zero at 325 yards...

That is good for a 39. If one of my bolt guns shot like that I would be looking for different ammo, bedding it or checking the barrel. .1 to .2 is what I expect at 50 yards from a good quality bolt gun with the right ammo.

Here is SK Plus, Automatch, Federal Champion and Winchester Xpert. The Xpert is excellent small game round, the big hollow point, 36 grain lead bullet at 1280 fps really smacks gophers, but not as accurate as the other stuff. Anschutz 1710 Rifle. 50 yards with really gusty wind. I did not...

Yes, they are nice rifles but nothing special. Remington made far more accurate, and many far prettier, bolt guns.

Minute of squirrel the 39 is fine. It may well be the most accurate 22 YOU ever own, but after owning a dozen 39s over the years I can guarantee they aren't even the most accurate lever I ever owned, let alone remotely in the accuracy league of bolt action CZ. Love the 39, but they were made...

Yes, but not by a whole lot. .284 or 30 cal is what it is used on and the .006 increase in the radius isn't a big deal. Now if I was using a .375 brake on a .284, that would be material.

Not Witt but a review I wrote of the Kahntrol https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/kahntrol-clamp-on-muzzle-brake-review.256179/ I saw the other two threads about the Witt Machine brake so thought there might be some interest in an alternate version. After looking at a number of Clamp on...

That is a different animal for sure. In this case you are cutting the 30-30 brass down about .3 and then forming a new neck and shoulder into the brass that comprises the actual body brass, which is a lot thicker, while at the same time, trying to neck that brass to 357. That one, I would anneal...

I have formed many, many thousand brass both up and down. (SEE 460 BEE to 338 378 above as one example) I have tried every combination and permutation possible. I have developed my process to the point I no longer need any special forming dies, I can do all of it using just a variety of seating...

You will lose less thickness if you don't anneal them first. They will also form easier. Give one a try not annealed, i think you will be please with how much easier it is. The 2 step expansion is much easier on the brass even though one step will work.

The simple adjustment for the closer distance when I use it indoors is to have the laser dot about 1.75 inches below the crosshairs and aligned dead on left right. That will put you on at 25, about 3 high at 100 and back on about 225 with most cartridges.

I would not anneal until AFTER you have necked them up to 375 and before FL sizing. Annealing makes the brass softer and allows the shoulders to crush much easier as you are trying to expand the case mouth.

Thanks for posting that. As bad as the scammers are now, AI is going to make it REALLY hard to spot scams, or protect passwords and online accounts. A guy may have to go back to face to face and cash, to be safe.

I have bore sighted rifles using the bolt out method for decades. Even on levers etc you can come pretty close by sighting down the barrel from behind the scope. However, I do have a "Laser Thingy" that I use when mounting scopes at home to get a quick reference for left right and up down...