Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Ways in which to improve walnut blank/stock properties to improve accuracy.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1324283" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>I will say that when I do a solid wood stock for myself, I have a method that works well but is very time/labor intensive.</p><p></p><p>I first strip all of the finish off the stock, remove the recoil pad and clean with steel wool . I also let the stock dry for several weeks in the sun to remove any excess moisture.</p><p></p><p>Old world master Gunsmiths always hand rub finish expensive pieces of wood and the stocks are normally very stable for solid wood.</p><p></p><p>First, make sure that you have plenty of time before you start applying the first coat because it is the most important. (I use True Oil Because it will cure/harden with time). Set down with an apron or plastic bag over your knees and rubber gloves and have plenty of cloths cut to 6 or 8'' for application</p><p>of true oil. once you start applying the true oil don't stop. Keep the surface wet for as long as you can hold out. (This is the time that the True oil is soaking in the wood and the longer you can keep soaking, the deeper the oil will penetrate). Do every surface including the but stock where the recoil pad was and the barrel channel.</p><p></p><p>Once you stop applying the True Oil, the penetration ends. after it dries, apply consecutive coats using 0000 steel wool to smooth the surface and level the wood for final finish. when done the wood will look beautiful and is very durable. The more coats the better it will look. This is also an easy finish to repair if it gets scratch because the finish is in the wood, not on it.</p><p></p><p>If you go this way you will not be disappointed but be prepared for a long process of cote and dry. I have taken several months and many hours to do this but have had zero problems with impact shifts on zeros. I always hesitate to recommend this method because it is so labor intensive, but it works the best for fine wood stocks and is beautiful and durable.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1324283, member: 2736"] I will say that when I do a solid wood stock for myself, I have a method that works well but is very time/labor intensive. I first strip all of the finish off the stock, remove the recoil pad and clean with steel wool . I also let the stock dry for several weeks in the sun to remove any excess moisture. Old world master Gunsmiths always hand rub finish expensive pieces of wood and the stocks are normally very stable for solid wood. First, make sure that you have plenty of time before you start applying the first coat because it is the most important. (I use True Oil Because it will cure/harden with time). Set down with an apron or plastic bag over your knees and rubber gloves and have plenty of cloths cut to 6 or 8'' for application of true oil. once you start applying the true oil don't stop. Keep the surface wet for as long as you can hold out. (This is the time that the True oil is soaking in the wood and the longer you can keep soaking, the deeper the oil will penetrate). Do every surface including the but stock where the recoil pad was and the barrel channel. Once you stop applying the True Oil, the penetration ends. after it dries, apply consecutive coats using 0000 steel wool to smooth the surface and level the wood for final finish. when done the wood will look beautiful and is very durable. The more coats the better it will look. This is also an easy finish to repair if it gets scratch because the finish is in the wood, not on it. If you go this way you will not be disappointed but be prepared for a long process of cote and dry. I have taken several months and many hours to do this but have had zero problems with impact shifts on zeros. I always hesitate to recommend this method because it is so labor intensive, but it works the best for fine wood stocks and is beautiful and durable. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Ways in which to improve walnut blank/stock properties to improve accuracy.
Top