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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
?To nut or not to nut?
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 426219" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>the grand idea of thread engagement and barrel flex has everything to do with accuracey. If the barrel thread is moving a couple thousandth of an inch, the results at 100 yards will be ugly. No different that the C/G of a bullet being off center by .0001". That equales .093" displacement at 100 yards. It all adds up to big numbers.</p><p> </p><p>Ok you don't want a nut. I got no problem after all it's your business. But on the otherhand lets look at it this way. A strait barrel is usually about 1.25" on the O.D., and then you put that on an action with very little threads in relationship to the weight they gotta support. When the barrel threads (shoulder too) can't hold the barrel ridgid you now own a shotgun that shoots real slow! A thousandths movement in the barrel thread is not goona help as well. Do a test, and see how much movement you have in the threads lateral and longitudial. Besides making weight, did you ever wonder why bench rest shooters rely on 22.5" and shorter barrels? The fulcrum points at the shoulder are key with harmonics playing a major role as well (once again we're back to Physics 102 and Applied Mechanics 101). If you stretch the thread into a forced contact the leverage against the rest of the unsuspended part of the barrel is much greater. Now bench guys like to use a shoulder (but there are some that don't) as we all know. Or do they? Next time look at the winning barrel tenons and see how the barrels are often supported (if they'll even allow you into the gun that far)</p><p> </p><p>P.S. a #7 contour barrel that's right at 22" long will be almost three times stiffer than the same exact barrel 26" long. Now compair that to a big old 1" barrel hanging out there in mid air. Then remember that those threads and whatever shoulder you can come up with have to support this with almost three times the leverage against it. You loose everytime. </p><p>glt</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 426219, member: 25383"] the grand idea of thread engagement and barrel flex has everything to do with accuracey. If the barrel thread is moving a couple thousandth of an inch, the results at 100 yards will be ugly. No different that the C/G of a bullet being off center by .0001". That equales .093" displacement at 100 yards. It all adds up to big numbers. Ok you don't want a nut. I got no problem after all it's your business. But on the otherhand lets look at it this way. A strait barrel is usually about 1.25" on the O.D., and then you put that on an action with very little threads in relationship to the weight they gotta support. When the barrel threads (shoulder too) can't hold the barrel ridgid you now own a shotgun that shoots real slow! A thousandths movement in the barrel thread is not goona help as well. Do a test, and see how much movement you have in the threads lateral and longitudial. Besides making weight, did you ever wonder why bench rest shooters rely on 22.5" and shorter barrels? The fulcrum points at the shoulder are key with harmonics playing a major role as well (once again we're back to Physics 102 and Applied Mechanics 101). If you stretch the thread into a forced contact the leverage against the rest of the unsuspended part of the barrel is much greater. Now bench guys like to use a shoulder (but there are some that don't) as we all know. Or do they? Next time look at the winning barrel tenons and see how the barrels are often supported (if they'll even allow you into the gun that far) P.S. a #7 contour barrel that's right at 22" long will be almost three times stiffer than the same exact barrel 26" long. Now compair that to a big old 1" barrel hanging out there in mid air. Then remember that those threads and whatever shoulder you can come up with have to support this with almost three times the leverage against it. You loose everytime. glt [/QUOTE]
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?To nut or not to nut?
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