Tikka t3 superlite in 300WM with vortex pst4x16...ring help!

Ucsdryder

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I am putting together a mountain gun for elk. Nothing fancy, but wanted something light and stainless. I have the gun and the scope but trying to decide on rings. I will be shooting 180gr bullets. I was going to go with the talley lightweights.

1. Does anybody have this setup and if so can I get away with the low rings?

2. I see a lot of long range setups that have a 20moa base. If I zero at 100 yards does anybody have a ballpark idea how far I can go before my scope runs out of clicks? For hunting I will be staying with 600 yards but would like the option to dial in farther for punching paper.

Thanks!
 
I have talley low rings directly mounted on mine with a vortex 2.5-10. I haven't shot much paper with it. It kicks like a mother..... I did kill 2 elk with it this year though. Awesome set up to hike with
 
I heard a new pad does wonders but it still kicks like a mule.

I have the limbsaver on mine. It does help, but is still a mule. Good enough to sight in every year and hunt with, but I won't be having any extended range sessions with it.
 
I shoot the same rife. Love it, too.
I put game reeper dnz one piece medium mount. And a ziess hd5.
It does kicker harder than most 300 win mags. So I agree on putting the limbsaver pad.
I Also put a Witt machine clamp on muzzle break. Still a light gun and shoots like a 243.
I don't notice it being any louder than normal either.
I don't think you'll have a problem with windage clicks.
 
I use a set of Optilock low rings on my T3 Forest. I am using a HD5 5-25-50. Works great for me.

22176886270_75bd1265a4_z.jpg
Untitled by ahawks87, on Flickr
 
I also have a Tikka 300 win mag and went with the Tally light weight mounts. I changed the stock to a McMillan Sako Hunter and changed the bottom piece to aluminum to allow me to torque the screws to 60 inch pounds. With the plastic, when I went above 30 inch pounds it flexed the plastic and was binding the magazine. I mounted a Swarovski 3Z 4x12x50 4W ballistic turret. I went with that scope because I wanted to keep it simple without any parallax adjustments and that set up should get me to 600 yards where the scope should max out. I have sighted it in just have not had a chance to get to the camp where I shoot and collect all my data.

The rifle is 8 pounds with the scope and kicks like a mule.

You should be fine without any kind of MOA adjustment . I had a similar set up with a Sako A7 with a Night Force NXS 3x15x50 on it and it was good to 750 yards where I ran out of shooting range.
 
I forgot to say that I would not zero at 100 yards. With that caliber I would go for 200 yards at least. You may even want to go 250 yards. At 250 yard zero you would be about 3 inches high at the most from 0 - 250 and maybe 3.5 inches low at 300 yards. If you are shooting at an elk out to 300 yards 3 inches should not matter. Just play with the ballistic calculator on this site and see what will work best for your equipment and elevation.
 
OK just when thru same excercise. My T3 is LH and scope is nightforce 50mm, had tally lightweight mounts(love them) in lows. Mounted scope perfect cheek weld looked great-but due to nightforce turrets the fired brass would hit parralex knob and fall back into action. I have since switched to highs. Not sure if your vortex has long windage turret. Just my experience. Tally lows are. 400 med. 500, highs .600
 
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