New rifle (edge) - problems, can't chamber

BlackSS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
251
Hello,
I just got an rem 700 based 338 edge back from the smith and am having some issues. Smith is helpful but over an hour drive, dont want to make more trips if I can solve.

Blue printed action, new hart barrel chambered in 338 edge throated 0.01 long for 300 grain pills (3.97 coal), chamber neck diameter 0.370.

I can not get a dummy round to chamber - bolt won't close.
Starting with new Norma 300 rum brass.

I am using whidden gun works dies. FL bushing (.365 bushing ) with expander and micrometer seating die.

After expanding up to to 338, an empty case chambers fine.

Use Stoney point / hornady chamber gauge with dummy threaded brass and bullet to measure distance to lands. Measure base to o-give and set back .04". Won't chamber.

Bump shoulder back .005 and set bullet back .1 from rifling and still won't chamber. Bump shoulder an additional .005 (.01 total) and still will not chamber.

I used a sharpie to mark up the shoulder and bullet to see where things are hanging. Looks to me like it's a the neck / shoulder transition. Picture shows a ring, measures .37 OD at the mark. Mouth of neck is .367 and is just starts to open up towards the shoulder.

Some how when I set the bullet it seems to be moving the brass just a little. I tried seating bullets in brass that I ran through the expander with no neck bushing and it doesn't make a difference.

I worked the neck/shoulder area of one piece of brass with Emory cloth and it will chamber. I'd rather not run out and buy a neck turner, but it seems like that will solve my problem. Other ideas?

TIA
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7626.JPG
    IMG_7626.JPG
    719.2 KB · Views: 209
I'm of the opinion you should send it back to your smith and have him open the neck up.
The original spec on the 338 edge is a .371 neck diameter on the loaded round if I recall correctly. Unless you speced the reamer, have your smith make it right.

Bench rest shooters run their necks at 1.5-2 thou clearance. My hunting rifles come in at 4 thou clearance and my "practical/tactical" rifle is about the same or a little less with lapua brass.

I don't think turning will fix your problems and, due to the amount you're taking off to achieve field clearances you'll run the risk of shortening already short component life.

But either way good luck.
 
Last edited:
Reamer neck is 0.370 per smith.

I believe that is standard based on reamer drawings online. But I have seen one drawing that indicates 0.3714. Does anyone know what the standard spec is?

Case neck measures 367-.368 at the mouth with bullet seated, and is consistent until just before the shoulder. Where it starts to transition the shoulder is where I am having the issue, and it measures 0.370
 
My Edge was the same.

When expanding the neck of any case up it is a good idea to turn the neck just barley skimming at the mouth but there will be much more material removed at the neck/shoulder junction. This is normal as the brass at the original neck/shoulder is thicker.

Also it is a good idea to anneal. Every firing.
 
Ok, I ordered a neck turner. I did not realize this was a common thing with this cartridge.
 
Reamer neck is 0.370 per smith.

I believe that is standard based on reamer drawings online. But I have seen one drawing that indicates 0.3714. Does anyone know what the standard spec is?

Case neck measures 367-.368 at the mouth with bullet seated, and is consistent until just before the shoulder. Where it starts to transition the shoulder is where I am having the issue, and it measures 0.370
I would turn one down with a bullet seated until it chambers easily, polish smooth, remove bullet, chamber and remove then measure the neck.

That would be what you need to use as a measurement for how far to turn your brass down.
 
If the problem is at the junction of the neck and shoulder as you say then it could also be a sizing issue . The bushing may not be going down far enough , the bushing may have a large chamfer on it's edge . Also the expander may be grabbing inside the neck and pulling the shoulder out slightly . A slight skim neck turn will assist the bushing to do a better job but I am not sure just turning of the bump is the best way to go . Expander balls are pure poison for accuracy and case life .
 
I have lubed inside of case neck, lubed expander and been as gentle as possible with neck sizing. The expander is very tapered and smooth transition.

But, to your point, I think re sizing may be the issue. The neck-shoulder transition is not very sharp. Not sure what to do about it aside from turning it down.

Image attached showing what the expander I'm using looks like..
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7633.JPG
    IMG_7633.JPG
    14.3 KB · Views: 147
@Bullet bumper has a significant point. Your neck/shoulder junction is very rounded.

You need to determine of that is a sizing issue or a brass thickness issue.

I don't use bushings in my 338 Edge. The one rifle I do is a 6mm/6.5-Grendel. On that die I am using a bushing and I have chambering problems similar to what you are having.

If I remember correctly one side if the bushing has a sharper edge. Have you tried turning the bushing over?
 
I had the same exact issue on my 30 nosler, went all in on a 21st century and my new catch phase is "turn em all". That seemed funny for about 2 seconds but whatever, you could send it back and ask for a no turn but I will just suck it up and turn the brass it makes it more "custom"
 
From the picture of the case you are just not sizing down far enough on the neck .
I was going to say turn the bushing over but I got beaten to the punch .
Polish up the necks with fine wire wool and lube the neck well . Then adjust the bushing down further . After fire forming you can probably partial neck size and still chamber ok.
Try that before turning the bump off .
The other thing we have to consider is , will sizing it down cause a doughnut inside the neck . If sizing works , then after the first shot ( just load a few shots at first ) check inside the neck for any doughnut constriction at the junction position . If it has a doughnut then the brass has a thickness problem in that area and turning the bump off instead of sizing down is the better option .
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 7 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top