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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 987945" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p>Firing pin protrusion is the distance the firing pin sticks out of the bolt face when the action is in the fired position. This should be checked with the bolt <strong>in the receiver</strong> as this is the condition that counts. Check protrusion wih the bolt out of receiver, too. See if there's a difference in measurements. Protrusion for a LRP should be .062" min./.066" max. On another subject, if the over travel on a trigger is set too close the sear can't drop all the way and the cocking piece may drag, slowing FP travel speed, causing a light strike. This should have been eliminated with the change of triggers. Have you changed brands/lots of primers? Might have a bad' batch. With the methods available (using a GO and NO-GO gauge, or a GO gage with steel shim stock stuck to it with grease for a NO-GO) how does a rifle with a new chamber ever leave a 'gunsmiths' shop with 'excessive headspace? I strive to stay 'close' to that GO gauge,,, GO + .002" max. or a'huntin' rifle and I check it a minium of 3 times as a build/re-barrel progresses, as headspace is of the utmost importantance for #1 Safety, #2 Function, & #3 Longevity of the brass. What is the maker of the receiver? If it was mentioned, sorry, I missed it. Like I said in a previous post,,Very hard to diagnose/fix this from a distance. Just "changing the bolt" will, most likely, do nothing but change the headspace dimention.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 987945, member: 24284"] Firing pin protrusion is the distance the firing pin sticks out of the bolt face when the action is in the fired position. This should be checked with the bolt [B]in the receiver[/B] as this is the condition that counts. Check protrusion wih the bolt out of receiver, too. See if there's a difference in measurements. Protrusion for a LRP should be .062" min./.066" max. On another subject, if the over travel on a trigger is set too close the sear can't drop all the way and the cocking piece may drag, slowing FP travel speed, causing a light strike. This should have been eliminated with the change of triggers. Have you changed brands/lots of primers? Might have a bad' batch. With the methods available (using a GO and NO-GO gauge, or a GO gage with steel shim stock stuck to it with grease for a NO-GO) how does a rifle with a new chamber ever leave a 'gunsmiths' shop with 'excessive headspace? I strive to stay 'close' to that GO gauge,,, GO + .002" max. or a'huntin' rifle and I check it a minium of 3 times as a build/re-barrel progresses, as headspace is of the utmost importantance for #1 Safety, #2 Function, & #3 Longevity of the brass. What is the maker of the receiver? If it was mentioned, sorry, I missed it. Like I said in a previous post,,Very hard to diagnose/fix this from a distance. Just "changing the bolt" will, most likely, do nothing but change the headspace dimention. [/QUOTE]
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