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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Indicating a barrel for muzzle break threading on my lathe
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 616981" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>Welcome to LRH,</p><p>Since you are doing other peoples guns for money you must be licensed and by very definition a gunsmith. We welcome your sharing of your experience as well. This is by far the friendliest board on the net thanks to the excellent members and level headed moderators. It also has some of the most knowledgable smiths participating. </p><p></p><p>Gordy Gritters showed us this method while studying under him in MO. Unless the end of the barrel you are working on is already perfectly true and concentric your range rods will only magnify any burrs or out of round, high or low lands present. Means when your indicator is reading zero runout you may actually have around .001" to .003" runout and worse the farther in you go. A long tip indicator or a Grizzly style rod is a much more reliable/repeatable means of getting your bore aligned. On the chamber end if you are using a floating reamer holder getting perfect means little as your reamer is following the bore anyway. This may or may not show up as runout in the finished chamber. To get the most out of a aligned bore you need to drill and singlepoint the bulk of the chamber to get the initial part of the chamber in line with your throat. We indicate at the throat and 2" farther as my alignment part of the bore. This gets the chamber aligned with the first 2" of bore as good as is possible. Is this necessary for fine accuracy? Clearly not but it makes me feel better so this is how we do it. Our chambers indicate dead nuts no runout as measured with .0001" Starret indicators and bore scope inspections reflect very square engagement with the rifling. </p><p></p><p>For a muzzle brake we use both the Grizzly rod and indicaters to get right at the crown and then 2" farther to align the crown and the brake. </p><p></p><p>This method along with our barrel qualification process has yielded extremely consistant results.</p><p></p><p>Shawn</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 616981, member: 1290"] Welcome to LRH, Since you are doing other peoples guns for money you must be licensed and by very definition a gunsmith. We welcome your sharing of your experience as well. This is by far the friendliest board on the net thanks to the excellent members and level headed moderators. It also has some of the most knowledgable smiths participating. Gordy Gritters showed us this method while studying under him in MO. Unless the end of the barrel you are working on is already perfectly true and concentric your range rods will only magnify any burrs or out of round, high or low lands present. Means when your indicator is reading zero runout you may actually have around .001" to .003" runout and worse the farther in you go. A long tip indicator or a Grizzly style rod is a much more reliable/repeatable means of getting your bore aligned. On the chamber end if you are using a floating reamer holder getting perfect means little as your reamer is following the bore anyway. This may or may not show up as runout in the finished chamber. To get the most out of a aligned bore you need to drill and singlepoint the bulk of the chamber to get the initial part of the chamber in line with your throat. We indicate at the throat and 2" farther as my alignment part of the bore. This gets the chamber aligned with the first 2" of bore as good as is possible. Is this necessary for fine accuracy? Clearly not but it makes me feel better so this is how we do it. Our chambers indicate dead nuts no runout as measured with .0001" Starret indicators and bore scope inspections reflect very square engagement with the rifling. For a muzzle brake we use both the Grizzly rod and indicaters to get right at the crown and then 2" farther to align the crown and the brake. This method along with our barrel qualification process has yielded extremely consistant results. Shawn [/QUOTE]
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Gunsmithing
Indicating a barrel for muzzle break threading on my lathe
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