Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
How accurate is RCBS Chargemaster 1500?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="QuietTexan" data-source="post: 2463907" data-attributes="member: 116181"><p>Right now the Tripp Lite goes into the wall socket, then the scale wall warts plug into the Tripp Lite. I only turn the AVR on when I need the scales. Kill-a-Watt would either go between the wall socket and the AVR to see what's going into it, or between the AVR and the wall wart to see what's going into the scale. Either works depending on what you want to see, generally putting it into the wall before AVR would be more important because the AVR should be putting out good power.</p><p></p><p>I used to put the Kill-a-Watt into the wall socket and plug the Tripp Lite into to, but after a few weeks I moved it to a power strip running off that same wall outlet and now it sits between my LED lights and the wall outlet. I figured out what the draw was from the scales, confirmed voltage and frequency was good when I'm running my scales (normal lights, computers, etc running at the same time), and now I can see what my printer does to the line voltage when it kicks on, and what the LEDs do when they're running.</p><p></p><p>The Kill-a-Watt is mainly a tool to check power draw, it records cumulative kWh starting from when it's plugged in to when it's unplugged again. I got it originally to see what was making my power bill so D-word high. Turns out there were some parasitic draws in our TV/cable set up, and the fridge compressor was on it's way out. The yellow Energy Star tag was WAY OFF, that sucker was costing me like $25/mo by itself <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="😂" title="Face with tears of joy :joy:" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f602.png" data-shortname=":joy:" /> The frequency and voltage stats are nice features they included and happened to work nicely with seeing what was going on with line voltage into my AVR, very cool little tool to have.</p><p></p><p>I also use the Kill-a-Watt on my generators for backup power to make sure I don't overload them. I have a disconnect outside the house so I can cut myself out of the grid (gotta keep those linesmen safe when they're working to get the lines back up) and run a transfer cord and I can keep my various fridges, freezers, and other things running without snaking a cord all around the house. The power only seems to go out when it's hot here, and I have a lot of meat that needs to be kept cold.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="QuietTexan, post: 2463907, member: 116181"] Right now the Tripp Lite goes into the wall socket, then the scale wall warts plug into the Tripp Lite. I only turn the AVR on when I need the scales. Kill-a-Watt would either go between the wall socket and the AVR to see what's going into it, or between the AVR and the wall wart to see what's going into the scale. Either works depending on what you want to see, generally putting it into the wall before AVR would be more important because the AVR should be putting out good power. I used to put the Kill-a-Watt into the wall socket and plug the Tripp Lite into to, but after a few weeks I moved it to a power strip running off that same wall outlet and now it sits between my LED lights and the wall outlet. I figured out what the draw was from the scales, confirmed voltage and frequency was good when I'm running my scales (normal lights, computers, etc running at the same time), and now I can see what my printer does to the line voltage when it kicks on, and what the LEDs do when they're running. The Kill-a-Watt is mainly a tool to check power draw, it records cumulative kWh starting from when it's plugged in to when it's unplugged again. I got it originally to see what was making my power bill so D-word high. Turns out there were some parasitic draws in our TV/cable set up, and the fridge compressor was on it's way out. The yellow Energy Star tag was WAY OFF, that sucker was costing me like $25/mo by itself 😂 The frequency and voltage stats are nice features they included and happened to work nicely with seeing what was going on with line voltage into my AVR, very cool little tool to have. I also use the Kill-a-Watt on my generators for backup power to make sure I don't overload them. I have a disconnect outside the house so I can cut myself out of the grid (gotta keep those linesmen safe when they're working to get the lines back up) and run a transfer cord and I can keep my various fridges, freezers, and other things running without snaking a cord all around the house. The power only seems to go out when it's hot here, and I have a lot of meat that needs to be kept cold. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
How accurate is RCBS Chargemaster 1500?
Top