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Dry Aged White Tail Leg for Mother's Day
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<blockquote data-quote="JTComfort" data-source="post: 2527305" data-attributes="member: 103514"><p>Some game books talk about it, but I've never seen anything really codified. I have written about it and made some posts in various forums. After reading Steve Rinella's "Scavenger's Guide to Haute Cuisine" in 2006, I tossed around a book idea and even proposed a Food Network program. I erred by pursuing the culinary route - FoodNetwork doesn't really do guns or death. I've heard Steve touch on it, but I haven't read his more recent books. I am guessing that it's such a niche interest that there's not a lot of market value in talking about it at length. Culturally, our consumption of wild game is so low that a conversation about antiquated handling practices from Old Europe is just not interesting and Steve seems to be playing to a different crowd these days.</p><p></p><p>"Larousse Gastronomique" - first published in 1938 discussed the technique, but does not state exact times. "Until it develops a marked smell" or "until the breast turns green" these are extremes, but not beyond the realm. Ground game (hares and such) are noted as being hung for 2-4 days. On birds, woodcock are said to require the longest aging, but no specifics other than not "drawn" (feathers on, guts in). Poorly shot game is dismissed as not suitable for aging. For really elevated recipes for game, go to Europe - French or Spanish contemporary chefs - they have the culture for market hunting. And Escoffier can not be beat for the true classics of French cuisine. Fergus Henderson in Nose to Tail Eating has a number of good recipes for game birds and offal. Mark Miller in Coyote Cafe has some tremendous recipes for game that are modern and reflect the desert southwest. . </p><p></p><p>I post and share what I know largely because I don't see or hear much about it in the mainstream. I'd like to think that I might inspire someone else as I was inspired. The results are very rewarding and the process is arcane. I can tell you truthfully that to the many non-cook/non-hunters that I have served well aged game, most will acknowledge they've never had game like it. </p><p></p><p>BTW - TSA might look at you weird, but there is no law against traveling domestically (Rapid City to VA) with a limit of intact dead pheasants in your checked bag. I haven't tried carry on.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JTComfort, post: 2527305, member: 103514"] Some game books talk about it, but I've never seen anything really codified. I have written about it and made some posts in various forums. After reading Steve Rinella's "Scavenger's Guide to Haute Cuisine" in 2006, I tossed around a book idea and even proposed a Food Network program. I erred by pursuing the culinary route - FoodNetwork doesn't really do guns or death. I've heard Steve touch on it, but I haven't read his more recent books. I am guessing that it's such a niche interest that there's not a lot of market value in talking about it at length. Culturally, our consumption of wild game is so low that a conversation about antiquated handling practices from Old Europe is just not interesting and Steve seems to be playing to a different crowd these days. "Larousse Gastronomique" - first published in 1938 discussed the technique, but does not state exact times. "Until it develops a marked smell" or "until the breast turns green" these are extremes, but not beyond the realm. Ground game (hares and such) are noted as being hung for 2-4 days. On birds, woodcock are said to require the longest aging, but no specifics other than not "drawn" (feathers on, guts in). Poorly shot game is dismissed as not suitable for aging. For really elevated recipes for game, go to Europe - French or Spanish contemporary chefs - they have the culture for market hunting. And Escoffier can not be beat for the true classics of French cuisine. Fergus Henderson in Nose to Tail Eating has a number of good recipes for game birds and offal. Mark Miller in Coyote Cafe has some tremendous recipes for game that are modern and reflect the desert southwest. . I post and share what I know largely because I don't see or hear much about it in the mainstream. I'd like to think that I might inspire someone else as I was inspired. The results are very rewarding and the process is arcane. I can tell you truthfully that to the many non-cook/non-hunters that I have served well aged game, most will acknowledge they've never had game like it. BTW - TSA might look at you weird, but there is no law against traveling domestically (Rapid City to VA) with a limit of intact dead pheasants in your checked bag. I haven't tried carry on. [/QUOTE]
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