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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
DIY pillar bedding?
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<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 257772" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>10 Commandments to bedding:</p><p></p><p>1. Epoxy waits for no one. </p><p>2. It will go places you never intended so don't be shy with the tape and clay</p><p>3. Release agents can screw you so:</p><p> a. shake the can like you have Parkinson disease</p><p> b. apply the wax carefully to ensure it has really stuck to the surfaces you don't want to glue.</p><p>4. Make sure you have no mechanical locks anywhere. This means the action has to be either on centerline or slightly above to avoid the stock mechanically locking the action in place. Make **** sure you pack the full length of the action with clay. "Klean clay" from brownells is by far the best stuff to use. Don't cheap out on the stuff sold at a craft shop.</p><p></p><p>5. Warm your resins first and mix them till your hands hurt. The chemical reaction depends on the esters and resins having complete contact with one another. Epoxy cures, it does not dry. When you warm it up, it'll also flow better and this avoids problems with porosity and trapped air. </p><p></p><p>6. Rehearse your process so you don't get out of sequence.</p><p></p><p>7. Trial fit everything before you ever mix the resin</p><p></p><p>8. Double/triple check all taped/clay'd/released surfaces</p><p></p><p>9. Be aware that you are dealing with a time sensitive item. Epoxy has a fairly specific time span (pot life, or open clamp time) to work within. Understand that heating it will reduce this time, sometimes significantly depending on the brand/type of resin system.</p><p></p><p>10. Use good work habits. Cleaning cured epoxy off of tools and gun stocks is ranks right up there with invasive dentistry.</p><p></p><p>Good luck.</p><p></p><p>Chad</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 257772, member: 7449"] 10 Commandments to bedding: 1. Epoxy waits for no one. 2. It will go places you never intended so don't be shy with the tape and clay 3. Release agents can screw you so: a. shake the can like you have Parkinson disease b. apply the wax carefully to ensure it has really stuck to the surfaces you don't want to glue. 4. Make sure you have no mechanical locks anywhere. This means the action has to be either on centerline or slightly above to avoid the stock mechanically locking the action in place. Make **** sure you pack the full length of the action with clay. "Klean clay" from brownells is by far the best stuff to use. Don't cheap out on the stuff sold at a craft shop. 5. Warm your resins first and mix them till your hands hurt. The chemical reaction depends on the esters and resins having complete contact with one another. Epoxy cures, it does not dry. When you warm it up, it'll also flow better and this avoids problems with porosity and trapped air. 6. Rehearse your process so you don't get out of sequence. 7. Trial fit everything before you ever mix the resin 8. Double/triple check all taped/clay'd/released surfaces 9. Be aware that you are dealing with a time sensitive item. Epoxy has a fairly specific time span (pot life, or open clamp time) to work within. Understand that heating it will reduce this time, sometimes significantly depending on the brand/type of resin system. 10. Use good work habits. Cleaning cured epoxy off of tools and gun stocks is ranks right up there with invasive dentistry. Good luck. Chad [/QUOTE]
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