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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
cleaning barrel with a muzzle break
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1975996" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>I just cleaned my 460 rifle and did the normal cleaning and then took the brake off and used my Sonic cleaner to finish it off. It came out looking like new and shinny inside. I recommend the cleaning with the brake left on to protect the crown from having the jag or brush being drug over the edge of the crown, (The bore hole in the brake acts like a bore savor because it should be .015 to ,020 over the bore and lines the brush or jag up with bore before entering the barrel bore).</p><p></p><p>I don't understand why anyone would say that you shouldn't remove it occasionally and clean the threads and re lubricate with anti seize. good threads will make up timed every time, and if anti seize is used thread wear is non existent. I know a few shooters that place a line up mark on the bottom of the brake to barrel connection to aide in timing ported brakes.</p><p></p><p>As to the question of copper inside the brake that Is not experiencing bullet strike, the copper has a vapor from the pressure that will over time coat the brake if it is not cleaned. you normally don't see it because of the carbon fouling from the powder. But with a clean burning powder and a good bore scope you will sometimes see the copper where the gas enters the brake ports on the inside, especially if the rifle is fired in rapid succession and the brake heats up.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1975996, member: 2736"] I just cleaned my 460 rifle and did the normal cleaning and then took the brake off and used my Sonic cleaner to finish it off. It came out looking like new and shinny inside. I recommend the cleaning with the brake left on to protect the crown from having the jag or brush being drug over the edge of the crown, (The bore hole in the brake acts like a bore savor because it should be .015 to ,020 over the bore and lines the brush or jag up with bore before entering the barrel bore). I don't understand why anyone would say that you shouldn't remove it occasionally and clean the threads and re lubricate with anti seize. good threads will make up timed every time, and if anti seize is used thread wear is non existent. I know a few shooters that place a line up mark on the bottom of the brake to barrel connection to aide in timing ported brakes. As to the question of copper inside the brake that Is not experiencing bullet strike, the copper has a vapor from the pressure that will over time coat the brake if it is not cleaned. you normally don't see it because of the carbon fouling from the powder. But with a clean burning powder and a good bore scope you will sometimes see the copper where the gas enters the brake ports on the inside, especially if the rifle is fired in rapid succession and the brake heats up. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
cleaning barrel with a muzzle break
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