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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Chambering a rifle at home
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<blockquote data-quote="birdiemc" data-source="post: 1779560" data-attributes="member: 29632"><p>Basically treating the nut as the shoulder. Both are there to stop the action from threading on any farther, so checking the savage against the nut the way you would on a 700 just makes sense in my little brain. Since neither book I have specifically addresses the savage, I chose to do it that way vs. trusting what I can find on the internet. By cutting for a .005 gap I believe after tightening everything down properly it should open up to about .008 as many on here state you'll get about .002-.003 crush.</p><p>The problem I have with cutting for .125 protrusion and calling it good is I dont know for sure what the distance is from the end of the barrel to the bolt. When I tear it all back down I will check what the go gauge protrusion is though because if it is as simple as setting it based off that measurement it is a lot simpler.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="birdiemc, post: 1779560, member: 29632"] Basically treating the nut as the shoulder. Both are there to stop the action from threading on any farther, so checking the savage against the nut the way you would on a 700 just makes sense in my little brain. Since neither book I have specifically addresses the savage, I chose to do it that way vs. trusting what I can find on the internet. By cutting for a .005 gap I believe after tightening everything down properly it should open up to about .008 as many on here state you'll get about .002-.003 crush. The problem I have with cutting for .125 protrusion and calling it good is I dont know for sure what the distance is from the end of the barrel to the bolt. When I tear it all back down I will check what the go gauge protrusion is though because if it is as simple as setting it based off that measurement it is a lot simpler. [/QUOTE]
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Chambering a rifle at home
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