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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Bedding the Action on a Tikka T3X
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<blockquote data-quote="D-mon" data-source="post: 1842858" data-attributes="member: 1523"><p>I ll bring a bit of water to the mill with my little experience of tikkas with the plastic stock. A few facts first:</p><p>The tikka rifle is probably one of the most consistent rifle in term of action dimensions , tolerances and has the straightest barrels of the ( mass produced) industry . The tikka synthetic stock is also very well moulded and you almost never see the barrel channel drifting to one side of the barrel more than the other.</p><p>The tikka stock has been designed with those little tabs at the beginning of the barrel channel to come in contact with the beginning of the barrel taper . If they had no role to play they simply would not be there!</p><p></p><p>The first thing you are going to notice when taking a brand new tikka out of the box is that the torque on the action screws is not high at all.usually around 28 to 30 inch pounds. You can use a marker pen and make a marking line on each screw head and the stock as a reference, undo the screws and then screw them back with a torque driver . Start at 20 inch pounds and then increase progressively the weight of your torque driver till you come to the original lines you drew precedently and you will be able to verify that.</p><p>One of the first mistakes that is done when taking a tikka action appart from the stock is to not re engage properly the action in the bottom recoil lug and the second mistake is to overtorque the action screws in the stock and therefore crushing the plastic bedding out of shape and permanently deforming it and ruining it.This also put upward pressure on the barrel with the tabs in the stock I was talking about earlier on.Often leading to not great accuracy.</p><p>If you own one of those stock that has already been crushed then yes conventional glass bedding is the cure. Replacing the stock with an after market one is another solution. Then in either case a stronger torquing of the screws will be fine.</p><p></p><p>But if you own a new tikka in a synthetic stock, don't trust the manual that says 60 inch pounds of torque, that is way too much!</p><p>You can apply a bit of blue loctite on the action screws before torquing them if you fear that they might come undone. Also while your action is out of the stock you can adjust the trigger weight or replaced its spring by a lighter one and apply a small amount of grease on the recoil lug to stop it rusting ( or replace it with an aftermarket stainless steel one).</p><p>Clean your barrel properly before shooting the first few rounds through it and you will see that most tikkas shoot extremely well just like that.</p><p></p><p>Ps: I have less credentials than a lot of people here, but I take appart about 5 to 10 tikkas every week and I have worked on close to 2000 over the last six years.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="D-mon, post: 1842858, member: 1523"] I ll bring a bit of water to the mill with my little experience of tikkas with the plastic stock. A few facts first: The tikka rifle is probably one of the most consistent rifle in term of action dimensions , tolerances and has the straightest barrels of the ( mass produced) industry . The tikka synthetic stock is also very well moulded and you almost never see the barrel channel drifting to one side of the barrel more than the other. The tikka stock has been designed with those little tabs at the beginning of the barrel channel to come in contact with the beginning of the barrel taper . If they had no role to play they simply would not be there! The first thing you are going to notice when taking a brand new tikka out of the box is that the torque on the action screws is not high at all.usually around 28 to 30 inch pounds. You can use a marker pen and make a marking line on each screw head and the stock as a reference, undo the screws and then screw them back with a torque driver . Start at 20 inch pounds and then increase progressively the weight of your torque driver till you come to the original lines you drew precedently and you will be able to verify that. One of the first mistakes that is done when taking a tikka action appart from the stock is to not re engage properly the action in the bottom recoil lug and the second mistake is to overtorque the action screws in the stock and therefore crushing the plastic bedding out of shape and permanently deforming it and ruining it.This also put upward pressure on the barrel with the tabs in the stock I was talking about earlier on.Often leading to not great accuracy. If you own one of those stock that has already been crushed then yes conventional glass bedding is the cure. Replacing the stock with an after market one is another solution. Then in either case a stronger torquing of the screws will be fine. But if you own a new tikka in a synthetic stock, don't trust the manual that says 60 inch pounds of torque, that is way too much! You can apply a bit of blue loctite on the action screws before torquing them if you fear that they might come undone. Also while your action is out of the stock you can adjust the trigger weight or replaced its spring by a lighter one and apply a small amount of grease on the recoil lug to stop it rusting ( or replace it with an aftermarket stainless steel one). Clean your barrel properly before shooting the first few rounds through it and you will see that most tikkas shoot extremely well just like that. Ps: I have less credentials than a lot of people here, but I take appart about 5 to 10 tikkas every week and I have worked on close to 2000 over the last six years. [/QUOTE]
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Bedding the Action on a Tikka T3X
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