Action Puller for Removing Actions During Bedding

barnesuser28

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Hey everyone, its been awhile! Im trying to gauge how much interest there is in a high quality, 100% CNC machined action puller for removing actions from the stock during bedding. All components except for the base would be made out of steel, the base would be machined out of billet 6061 aluminum. The design pulls the action straight out of the stock and keeps you from having to try to pound it out with the 5 lb "universal wrench":D and risking chipping the fresh bedding. The base sits on the edges of the stock and the long rod slides into the action raceway. There is a C-shaped bracket that pulls up the rod when the handle is turned, with a needle thrust bearing on the handle/base interface to keep things running smooth. How much interest is there and at what price? I have a rough idea of what i would need to charge but i want to see what the market is before i start making prototypes and throwing numbers around. Take care!
Riley
 

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The base sits on the stock. Does this mean the force needed to pop the action out is applied to the stock where the base contacts it? Wouldn't it damage the stock at the contact points?
 
If the bedding is done correctly with the right amount of clearance taped and some left over compound monitored to see when it's hard enough , the action should come out easily . If you had to pound one out you did something wrong .
 
If the bedding is done correctly with the right amount of clearance taped and some left over compound monitored to see when it's hard enough , the action should come out easily . If you had to pound one out you did something wrong .

Tend to agree. 40 yrs ago, 1/2 of my wooden forearm stock on the 2nd rifle I bedded remained permanently attached to my barrel. So I'm an "expert". :):D

The other half remained attached to the rest of a nice walnut stock.
 
I would buy one, depending on price. I'm not sure what that price is. Probably something less than $150. I'm also curious about how well the attachment is to the rod on an action with an integral rail.
 
Most people who get the stock stuck have not used enough release agent and not applied it to every area needed . Also not creating clearance in the right areas of the recoil lug to suit whichever action . Allowing the bedding material to harden for too long.
Allowing bedding material to flow into and around trigger housings is not good either .
I always remove the trigger .
What I do is monitor the bedding material until it is strong enough to resist cracking or coming adrift then I gently pull apart the barrel and forend a bit at a time and work it loose . They always just pop out . Then I clean up any over spill and wipe of excess release agent but not fully wipe it down . Then I reassemble it with it's normal action screws and only semi tighten down not full torque . Then I let it cure fully .
I could see a use for this product if you got a stock stuck and the forend was a weak thin thing . Pulling directly over the action area would be lest risky than bending that weak forend .
 
Looks interesting Riley!! If a rifle pops out of bedding with ease it's not bedded correctly, definitely a handy tool!!
 
This device isn't necessarily only for actions that are difficult to remove from the stock, it makes removing actions from stocks that much easier, quicker., and less dramatic. I will work on a couple prototypes in the next couple of weeks and see what i can come up with. The base is spreading the load over 8" on either side of the stock and will not damage the stock, i have talked with Chad Dixon at LRI and he said he has never had any problems and that these action pullers are slicker than snot. I plan on having two kits available, one that lifts up on a rod in the action raceway for more modular use and one that attaches directly to a picatinny rail and lifts straight up that way (only drawback is that you must have a rail that fits each action type you work on, may or may not be a big deal depending on your situation). I will also make the top section of the base in different widths to accommodate different width actions and stock profiles. I will report back in a couple weeks and share what i have come up with. From what i can tell many gunsmiths have made their own version of this but only made a few for their own use, i couldn't find any commercially available for those who do not have the equipment to make their own.
 
Looks interesting Riley!! If a rifle pops out of bedding with ease it's not bedded correctly, definitely a handy tool!!

Not exactly right , if it takes too much force to get it out then it takes some force to bed it back down and in that comes potential distortion and stress . Also if it hangs on too tight it can pull the bedding away from the stock in places where you may not see it . If the right clearances are there in the right places it should just come out easy .
If you have to winch it out it's done wrong.
 
Not exactly right , if it takes too much force to get it out then it takes some force to bed it back down and in that comes potential distortion and stress . Also if it hangs on too tight it can pull the bedding away from the stock in places where you may not see it . If the right clearances are there in the right places it should just come out easy .
If you have to winch it out it's done wrong.

There are many opinions on the correct way to bed but I agree with Bigngreen. Only place I want any clearance in my bedding jobs is the bottom of the lug.
 
There are many opinions on the correct way to bed but I agree with Bigngreen. Only place I want any clearance in my bedding jobs is the bottom of the lug.
For a Rem 700 action that would be wrong and the reason why they get jammed in the stock . You want clearance under and in front of the recoil lug .
You never want clearance under the lug of a Mauser , early Sako , Howa etc as the action screw would bend the stock and the action to snug it down , the screw goes into the lug at the base .
 
You might consider putting a small radius or tiny bevel on the bottom edges so that nothing sharp or square ever touches the stock. If you look at the photo of Chad's tool, his appear radiused.
 
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