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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
6.5-284 Norma to .284 Win conversion
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<blockquote data-quote="Lefty7mmstw" data-source="post: 1110016" data-attributes="member: 48043"><p>The Rcbs sizer I'm using actually sizes brass down to .512" just above the belt, which happens to just fit the chamber well; I gave away my Redding 7stw dies as they were looser by .006", and I had issues with poor accuracy due to miss-aligned brass in my old rifle. I saw the rifle go from .5 moa to 1.5 moa based on the difference between new and fl sized brass using the Redding dies. Rcbs dies were equivalent accuracy to new brass. </p><p> </p><p> My last chamber was also a custom, but the headspace was a bit long and I tore the rifle down to save brass life- I wanted shorter headspace by .010". I then found out the 'smith that built that rifle spec'd the barrel shank wrong (standard) when <em>my </em>'smith refused to put the rifle back together. Too much play in a .030" over trued receiver is a bad thing. It turned out well though, as the rifle is now shooting lights out with leftover ammo from the last two rifles. The last three down the new pipe produced a .51" 200 yard group and it is consistently .5 moa or lower with this load. </p><p> </p><p>As to necking brass, I do not worry unless it causes problems, which it usually doesn't. I like as little neck tension as possible while still holding the bullet. More neck tension isn't always a good thing as it can lead to more variance in bullet pull with any brass irregularity at all. </p><p> </p><p>I'll neck up 30-06 to 35whelen, 7rem to 338win, and 223wssm to 25wssm if I need to. Take it easy on the brass by lubing properly, stage your necking using intermediate steps if necessary, and watch for problems. With the quality of win brass lately (it you can find any)I can see where one would look at 6.5x284 brass. I do like the 375h&h to 7stw conversion better though; you don't have to worry about necks thinning more on one side.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lefty7mmstw, post: 1110016, member: 48043"] The Rcbs sizer I'm using actually sizes brass down to .512" just above the belt, which happens to just fit the chamber well; I gave away my Redding 7stw dies as they were looser by .006", and I had issues with poor accuracy due to miss-aligned brass in my old rifle. I saw the rifle go from .5 moa to 1.5 moa based on the difference between new and fl sized brass using the Redding dies. Rcbs dies were equivalent accuracy to new brass. My last chamber was also a custom, but the headspace was a bit long and I tore the rifle down to save brass life- I wanted shorter headspace by .010". I then found out the 'smith that built that rifle spec'd the barrel shank wrong (standard) when [I]my [/I]'smith refused to put the rifle back together. Too much play in a .030" over trued receiver is a bad thing. It turned out well though, as the rifle is now shooting lights out with leftover ammo from the last two rifles. The last three down the new pipe produced a .51" 200 yard group and it is consistently .5 moa or lower with this load. As to necking brass, I do not worry unless it causes problems, which it usually doesn't. I like as little neck tension as possible while still holding the bullet. More neck tension isn't always a good thing as it can lead to more variance in bullet pull with any brass irregularity at all. I'll neck up 30-06 to 35whelen, 7rem to 338win, and 223wssm to 25wssm if I need to. Take it easy on the brass by lubing properly, stage your necking using intermediate steps if necessary, and watch for problems. With the quality of win brass lately (it you can find any)I can see where one would look at 6.5x284 brass. I do like the 375h&h to 7stw conversion better though; you don't have to worry about necks thinning more on one side. [/QUOTE]
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6.5-284 Norma to .284 Win conversion
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