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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
264 Win Mags - When would the brass cases be considered "Fire Formed" for each individual action?
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<blockquote data-quote="Fiftydriver" data-source="post: 3100042" data-attributes="member: 10"><p>My procedure is like lost of my procedures, extremely simple, here goes.</p><p></p><p>- screw your FL die into your press so that there is roughly 0.100" between the bottom of the die and the top of the shellholder. </p><p></p><p>- Take a fired case and some 0000 steel wool. Clean the neck and shoulder of the fired case using the steel wool by holding the wool on one hand, wrap around the case neck and turn the case with the other, pinching firmly on the case neck with the hand holding the wool. Yes this cleans the case neck but just as important, it leaves minute polishing lines running around the case neck. This makes it very easy to see the die contact points on the case neck.</p><p></p><p>- lube the case, run it up into the FL sizing die and the. Remove. Clean off lube and inspect the marks left on the case neck. This will give you some idea how far away you are from the case shoulder, should not be touching at this point.</p><p></p><p>- now check that case to see if it chambers in your rifle. If it does chamber easily, the chamber pressures are quite mild in the load used to fire that round, as such, case will be ready to prime, powder and load if it chambers easily with no real resistence when closing the bolt on that sized case. Often times however, with good top end loads, there will be resistance closing the bolt.</p><p></p><p>- turn your FL sizing die down into the press 1/10 of a rotation. Relube case, resize and recheck in your chamber. Repeat this process until you go from just feeling some resistance on the bolt when closing it on the sized case to the bolt closing easily. At that point, you know your roughly within 0.005" of having the case set up at 0 headspace in the chamber.</p><p></p><p>- sometimes you will feel a noticable bump sizing the case to get it to chamber properly. This becomes more common as the case gets more firings on it. New brass will often not give much notice that your bumping the shoulder while you size the brass so always best to go slow setting up the die.</p><p></p><p>I recommend this set up procedure be used each and every time you set up to size brass.</p><p></p><p>Also strongly recommend your brass be kept on the same firing number as closely as possible so that you can get consistent sizing of all your cases.</p><p></p><p>A case with 5 firings on it will need much more shoulder bump when sizing to properly fit in the chamber then a case with 1 firing so to keep consistency with your brass fit in the chamber, best way is to keep them all on the same round count.</p><p></p><p>Inconsistent chamber fit will generally always cause fliers in factory rifles, not as much in a full custom but still not a good thing just from an ignition stand point. </p><p></p><p>Really pretty old school but no need for fancy, costly gauges or tools, just need your rifle, brass, some steel wool and your press and dies.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fiftydriver, post: 3100042, member: 10"] My procedure is like lost of my procedures, extremely simple, here goes. - screw your FL die into your press so that there is roughly 0.100” between the bottom of the die and the top of the shellholder. - Take a fired case and some 0000 steel wool. Clean the neck and shoulder of the fired case using the steel wool by holding the wool on one hand, wrap around the case neck and turn the case with the other, pinching firmly on the case neck with the hand holding the wool. Yes this cleans the case neck but just as important, it leaves minute polishing lines running around the case neck. This makes it very easy to see the die contact points on the case neck. - lube the case, run it up into the FL sizing die and the. Remove. Clean off lube and inspect the marks left on the case neck. This will give you some idea how far away you are from the case shoulder, should not be touching at this point. - now check that case to see if it chambers in your rifle. If it does chamber easily, the chamber pressures are quite mild in the load used to fire that round, as such, case will be ready to prime, powder and load if it chambers easily with no real resistence when closing the bolt on that sized case. Often times however, with good top end loads, there will be resistance closing the bolt. - turn your FL sizing die down into the press 1/10 of a rotation. Relube case, resize and recheck in your chamber. Repeat this process until you go from just feeling some resistance on the bolt when closing it on the sized case to the bolt closing easily. At that point, you know your roughly within 0.005” of having the case set up at 0 headspace in the chamber. - sometimes you will feel a noticable bump sizing the case to get it to chamber properly. This becomes more common as the case gets more firings on it. New brass will often not give much notice that your bumping the shoulder while you size the brass so always best to go slow setting up the die. I recommend this set up procedure be used each and every time you set up to size brass. Also strongly recommend your brass be kept on the same firing number as closely as possible so that you can get consistent sizing of all your cases. A case with 5 firings on it will need much more shoulder bump when sizing to properly fit in the chamber then a case with 1 firing so to keep consistency with your brass fit in the chamber, best way is to keep them all on the same round count. Inconsistent chamber fit will generally always cause fliers in factory rifles, not as much in a full custom but still not a good thing just from an ignition stand point. Really pretty old school but no need for fancy, costly gauges or tools, just need your rifle, brass, some steel wool and your press and dies. [/QUOTE]
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264 Win Mags - When would the brass cases be considered "Fire Formed" for each individual action?
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