Both forged uppers. I've been doing more with these Anderson non forward assist uppers. Lighter weight and I like the look. The M-Lok new hand gaurds are really nice how they clamp onto the barrel nut so you don't have to time anything to get the gas tube or top rail perfect. such a superior design compared to older hand guards I have. One is a 10 inch and the longer is 13.5 inch
The 18 inch SS Wylde 1:8 barrels arrived pretty rough. Just freshly machined. So I spent a day first in using the wire wheel and then on to different grits on a polishing wheels. Then I soak a 223 bore snake with chrome wheel polish and draw it back and forth through the barrel about a 100 times adding more chrome polish. So the barrel is totally polished inside and out. Polished barrels are just ready to go you don't have the breakin procedure. The feed ramps get a polishing job. You can see videos on Youtube about feed ramp polishing. I paint the upper end of the barrel with 2000 degree ceramic header paint just before I slip the upper to the barrel to ensure a total snug fit. I use locktight on the barrel nut and torq it to spec. I paint the the gas tube and inside the gas block with the same paint before assembly and installing the gas tube pin. I mask off the upper and lower diameters of the barrel and put about two coats of the ceramic paint where the gas block goes and let it dry. Then I put on a final spray just before I seat the gas block and lock down the allens. In the past I have had signs of carbon blow by in these areas. The paint seems to seal them up for a lifetime of shooting. Just something I've thought up over the years on how to do it better.
These are mid length gas tubes which are less pressure on the buffer tube. I use full Auto heavy BCG also. One BCG is a Nickle boron and the other is a new ceramic coated super BCG. Some people love chrome.... I will try most anything once. https://www.pegasusdefense.com/store/products/200/fail-zero-m16-bolt-carrier-group
It is supposed to be in the 80's this weekend so I'm going to spend a day and see how they do. A friend already wants one of them so I might leave it unshot.
The 18 inch SS Wylde 1:8 barrels arrived pretty rough. Just freshly machined. So I spent a day first in using the wire wheel and then on to different grits on a polishing wheels. Then I soak a 223 bore snake with chrome wheel polish and draw it back and forth through the barrel about a 100 times adding more chrome polish. So the barrel is totally polished inside and out. Polished barrels are just ready to go you don't have the breakin procedure. The feed ramps get a polishing job. You can see videos on Youtube about feed ramp polishing. I paint the upper end of the barrel with 2000 degree ceramic header paint just before I slip the upper to the barrel to ensure a total snug fit. I use locktight on the barrel nut and torq it to spec. I paint the the gas tube and inside the gas block with the same paint before assembly and installing the gas tube pin. I mask off the upper and lower diameters of the barrel and put about two coats of the ceramic paint where the gas block goes and let it dry. Then I put on a final spray just before I seat the gas block and lock down the allens. In the past I have had signs of carbon blow by in these areas. The paint seems to seal them up for a lifetime of shooting. Just something I've thought up over the years on how to do it better.
These are mid length gas tubes which are less pressure on the buffer tube. I use full Auto heavy BCG also. One BCG is a Nickle boron and the other is a new ceramic coated super BCG. Some people love chrome.... I will try most anything once. https://www.pegasusdefense.com/store/products/200/fail-zero-m16-bolt-carrier-group
It is supposed to be in the 80's this weekend so I'm going to spend a day and see how they do. A friend already wants one of them so I might leave it unshot.
