Few bedding questions?

Ok I'm getting ready to bed a couple rifles for the first time with Brownels Acraglass gel. The first I want to bed as more practice than anything, it's a ruger American that I'm not too worried about a lil mess up hear or there. The second is a Remington 5R in 300 win mag so I know the approach to the two will be a little different but the concept remains the same.

The first question I have is on the Ruger how do I approach the V-block stock design? Do I shave some material off the blocks and bed there and the tang area? Should I bed the barrel nut back or not quite to the barrel nut?

The next question is with the Remington floor plate and mag box design, should I put the magazine metal in while I bed it or block the mag area with clay? I have watched vids that did it both ways and it looked a little more messy putting the mag metal in while bedding but it also makes sense to bed it all to get everything an exact fit?

Also on the vids I watched that put the mag box in while bedding they took it apart after 3-4 hrs while the bedding epoxy was still a little flexible to trim away excess, I don't really like the idea of taking it apart half set and putting it back together. So is this necessary or could I leave it set up the whole 24 hrs either way and just grind/file for clean up?

74, as you have found in the videos many alternate options. I'm sure replies to this thread will vary as well. I can only tell you from my experience to carefully check stock inletting for unwanted contact points, have your stock level horizontally and laterally in a fixture or vise. Level the action to the leveled stock and keep them level till epoxy is cured. Bedding needs to be stress-free, heavy clamping should be avoided. If the Ruger American has a plastic stock, it's very likely the bedding material will not stay in place. Epoxy won't adhere to plastics used in rifle stocks. I use Kiwi Neutral polish for release agent and modeling clay to fill other areas along with quality painters tape on the stock. Good luck

Thanks for the reply Dosh. The Ruger is a plastic stock with aluminum V-blocks, I was hoping if I grind away and rough up a bit of the stock the epoxy would stick ok. I used jb weld in the forearm of the stock last year to stiffen it up and it's held fine, just still isn't as stiff as I would like.

My biggest concern is the mag well and box on the Remington. I can see where it could be easy to get epoxy squeezed everywhere and lock the mag box in. I suppose I should experiment with some stuff to see if I can seal around the mag box and inleting on the receiver so epoxy can't get in there.

I have never left the mag box in place when bedding, I always filled with modeling clay.
I also fill the trigger recess and any pin holes.

Rough up the Ruger stock and aluminum block and epoxy will stick. Don't bed the nut.

On the Remington use clay to fill the magazine cut out and trigger cutout as well as the bolt release cut and trigger pin holes.

I recommend making some long studs to help guide the Rem700 in place. Don't forget to apply release agent to them.

I started out filling the mag well area with clay, but some bedding always made its way in there and had to be ground out. I coat this area as well as any other area in the stock I don't want bedding to stick with imperial wax, let it overflow. I keep a check on the bedding compound left in the mixing cup, and after it is set, usually six hours with devcon, I remove action and chip over flow out with a sharp 1/4" chisel and brass tapper. This results in a very clean job that follows the breaks and edges of the inlet. Any small snags after this are removed with a utility knife or file.

Remember that any place you do not want bedding compound to make an exact copy of the action, magazine well, trigger pin holes, and safety lever space must be dealt with before you start mixing the bedding compound. A dam of modeling clay in the barrel channel is needed to keep the bedding compound from flowing up the barrel channel also. Take masking tape and tape the stock down the edges of the barrel channel and any place you do not want bedding compound to bond to the stock. This is a CZ 452 ready to bed. even run masking tape up the barrel channel so if epoxy flows up barrel channel removal will be easier.

Thanks for all the input guy's i believe I have a good grasp on it. Just a couple more questions.

First do I want to leave a small strip of the stock alone in the tang area and by the recoil lug as a hight reference so the action sits at the same hight in the stock as it originally did?

Second I know is probably more opinion than anything but with a heavy contour barrel should I bed an inch or so past the recoil lug, the straight area of the barrel before it tapers?

Lonewolf

I've personally found it easier to not bed the chamber section at same time. I will bed entire action, shoot the gun, and if it's not satisfactory I will then bed the chamber area. I've bedded a few that double grouped on me and were driving me crazy trying to figure out. Ground the chamber area bedding out and they are 1/4 minute or better shooters now. Very few have had to be bedded in chamber to improve the shooting. Just my $.02.

Georgiashooter said:

Lonewolf

I've personally found it easier to not bed the chamber section at same time. I will bed entire action, shoot the gun, and if it's not satisfactory I will then bed the chamber area. I've bedded a few that double grouped on me and were driving me crazy trying to figure out. Ground the chamber area bedding out and they are 1/4 minute or better shooters now. Very few have had to be bedded in chamber to improve the shooting. Just my $.02.

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thats good to know I am not crazy lol I have one that would shift the hole about a half minute horizontal and I did the same thing , I ground out the camber bedding and it stopped

there is a lot of good info at Trigger Springs|Aluminum Pillar|Pillar Bedding|Gunsmithing . I bedded a stock with the aluminum bedding block . I used Ernies accu-riser kit , and 10110 devcon . these are two articles that I found helpful .

NO 6. All stocks need pillars, even stocks with bedding blocks

N0. 5. Aluminum Pillar Bedding for a more accurate rifle.

Thanks again guy's and thanks jimbires for posting those links I decided I'm gonna do that same process.

And I won't bed past the recoil lug.