Recent content by Wild_Bill

Ok I'm a little late to the party. Look at a MTU or AMU profile barrel. If its a single shot go for the 6mmBR however if it's a repeater don't use any br based case. Look at a 6mmGT they are designed to work from a mag. The br cases can work with an action with a manual ejector however even with...

Buy 50 350gr Sierra MatchKings. Load them up with H4350 you can load them to .020" jump and up to 2450fps. The large bore diameter and case dimensions give the caryrige relatively good expansion ratio for the powder to burn. This means that it performs well in shorter barrels down to 20"...

Contact Benchmark Barrels they can cut you a 5 Grove cut rifled barrel in any twist you want. Tell them Bill from Grenfell Armouring Service sent you

Hi I did a similar thing except loaded 135gr Matchkings in the 6.8 in a rem 700 20" barrel. Loads were super sonic to 1000 yards. The little case duplicated 303/270 load data. Was an interesting experiment. Cheers Bill

I would use 2 powders H4350 is good for the 243 and 338 win mag, the others would benefit to use H1000 You can load everything with 4350 but in the small bore magnums you will have low velocity at high pressure. You need to optimise powders to the cartrige

The issue with running primers in 6BRs is the projectile weight. If you are running 100gr plus projectiles use either the CCI450 or Rem 7 1/2, they are slightly hotter and work better with the slower powders at a larger volume. The other one is the CCI BR4 all of the 3 mentioned have thicker...

If you are gathering parts to get a rifle buils there shouldn't be a problem. Just buy the break you want and the gunsmith fitting the barrel can time the brake when the barrel is fitted. The brake does not need to be altered the shoulder of the barrel is usually machined to the correct length...

Load new brass or fire factory ammo. You can safely fire max loads for the parent case in an Ackley chamber. You don't need to down load them and I wouldn't reccomend that. You also do not need to fireform all of your brass. Just settle on a fireforming load or factory buy 100 rounds or get 100...

Good luck on ypur builds. You have chosen 2 cartriges that will be extremely close in ballistics after your build. Have fun and good shooting

Hi I live in Australia and am on a military pension. I shoot competitively and try to save enough to also fund my son in his sporting endeavours. I would love the opportunity to upgrade my priming tool. Thank you for your kind offer to whoever you select. Cheers Bill

As its your first magnum. Look at 300 Win nag first, there is ammo available everywhere in the world, and 2nd option is 300 PRC if you handload or are happy to buy enough factory ammo to cover a few years of shooting. The PRC gives you some linger range factory options. You can use your rem 700...

This is an interesting one. If all components do not work together your dead in the water. For primers some reload them but unless using fast pistol powder or Black powder it's not realy reccomended. Most calibers can be loaded with to fast or 2 slow powders safety but performance will suffer...

You just answered your own question. If that shoots the tightest for you use the 300

Honestly I'd take the 7mm rem mag or the 300RUM. Whatever you shoot the best and the rifle set up the best for long range. The 6.5X284 would work but the other 2 would be better at extended range. Bullet drop is easily calculated but wind drift is the critical part. A 168gr minimum in the 7mm...

Can't use the seater as the RUM case is a larger diameter