Recoil solution

Ya....what jdyoung said...good job! Nice add on my friend!😉
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Thanks, I've run into that before. With that fat RUM cartridge the OP referenced, installing both a break and mercury suppressor is kinda like usin' both a belt and suspenders. And adjusting the angle of the butt plate/pad can take recoil from causing the comb jumping into your jaw, to coming directly rearward into the mass one's body, making it '"feel" like less.
 
Good day everyone:
This is my first post ever although I have Beene eating posts on this site for a couple of yearrs.
I have been shooting and hunting since I was a kid and also reloading. I have many firearms but this post is for advice.
Some years ago I purchased a 700 Remington Moutain SS rifle in 300 RUM for an anticipated bear hunt that never materialized.
I am normally not recoil sensitive having shot calibers up to 416 magnum with no issues.
This rifle has the nastiest recoil I have ever experienced! In an effort to tame it somewhat a radial brake and Limbsaver recoil pad replaced the stock pad.
Very little improvement.
This rifle weighs 8.6 lbs unloaded w scope and the thin barrel is threaded 5x28 with a diameter around .650. I am looking for a recommendation on what brake will settle the recoil down some more. From what I am seeing from the experts here, APA seems to be
the most recommended. What say you?
Interesting, given that the 416 has to be a mule!
I've yet to feel a rifle that a Limbsaver didn't tame, including a light 338wm and 300wsm.
 
Thanks, I've run into that before. With that fat RUM cartridge the OP referenced, installing both a break and mercury suppressor is kinda like usin' both a belt and suspenders. And adjusting the angle of the butt plate/pad can take recoil from causing the comb jumping into your jaw, to coming directly rearward into the mass one's body, making it '"feel" like less.
You are 100% on track!
 
I suggest you try Limbsaver recoil pads. He has some youtube videos on how to trim to fit, or you can ship your stock to him. That and a good brake should do it for you.
I have a lite tikka 338 that has a rude kick. I use the slip on limbsaver on the bench. I pull it off to hunt. It gets me through.

Ultimately on A RUM or a lapua I would just get the muzzle brake. Any muzzle brake would be an improvement. I have 2 Rums and lapua and even the stock savage brakes make them better than the un braked tikka win mag
 
I like the idea of replacing the stock first as the factory stock is not the greatest. I was
planning on an EH-1 as an upgrade anyway. For those of you that asked, the barrel length is 26" which is standard in this model and the action is stainless steel. It is a nice rifle but if I had it to do over, I would start with a custom action. It's only money after all. Through the years, as I acquired more firearms, I tried to pick carefully and have never sold any of them. Just me.
Like a lot of you, I shoot many different calibers and being a long time reloader it makes for a great hobby.
 
Thanks again for all the input folks. I ordered and am waiting for a Manners EH-1. Definitely can't hurt anything and is so much better than the Tupperware.
I removed the brake and measured the threads with a pitch gauge and vernier.
The OD on the threads appears to be
.505" and the TPI seems to be around 32.
Could this be metric? I originally posted it was 1/2 by 28 but doesn't seem to be.
 
Thanks again for all the input folks. I ordered and am waiting for a Manners EH-1. Definitely can't hurt anything and is so much better than the Tupperware.
I removed the brake and measured the threads with a pitch gauge and vernier.
The OD on the threads appears to be
.505" and the TPI seems to be around 32.
Could this be metric? I originally posted it was 1/2 by 28 but doesn't seem to be.
Awfully small threads for 30 cal. Any accuracy issues? Only asking because sometimes bore size can increase at the muzzle when so little metal is left after threading.
 
This is the least accurate rifle I own and has always been that way, since before the muzzle was threaded. I can easily get 1/2 MOA with everything else I own except a model 1895 Winchester in .405 with iron sights. About 2 MOA on that one
 
You were right about APA. The Fat Bastard:

Results of recoil reduction test:
Really great information. Thank you so much for posting that. I am in the process of building a 338-378 for a hunting rifle. They have a fairly robust recoil profile so being able to balance recoil reduction with noise is very useful. The Seekins and the Tridelta will be good options. The APA and Alamo Four Star provide more recoil reduction, so for a target rifle that would probably matter most but for hunting the time back on target, ground effect, and noise effect on the shooter and those around them matter too.

Here is a link to the full set of tests

https://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/21/muzzle-brake-summary-of-field-test-results/

Muzzle-Brake-Loudness-Rating-vs-Recoil-Reduction-Rating.png



Muzzle-Brake-Field-Test-Summary.png
 
The Gen 3 Bastard brakes have 10 top ports now to help solve the muzzle rise and lateral movement issue, and uses screws to adjust the profile. It's an interesting concept, not sure if it's gimmicky or functional.
 
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